Bore Guide
- Thread starter Jeffo
- Start date
enfieldspares
Well-Known Member
I don't think one size will fit all unless you use one that stuffs into the rear receiver ring. In which case if I ever used one I used the wooden one that Fulton's and Edna Parker use to sell.
Fosbery Holster
Well-Known Member
The only one l use is the Parker wooden one not perhaps that easy to find but great to use.
The more modern type (tube type) tend to stop any fluids and/or gunge from entering the magazine area but haven’t felt the need for one at the moment.
Needless to say other members will recommend one you can purchase.
chrisstorey79
Well-Known Member
I use Possum Bore Guides, Work good for me
Sonicdmb73
Well-Known Member
I have an MTM bore guide for my 243 they come in sizes for different actions and calibre’s. Nothing special but it does the job.
I have no idea of the make but I got a very good guide with my 20 Tac. It fits the chamber properly and seals with an O ring so nothing gets into the action. I would rather have one like that than the generic MTM one any day.
I have no idea of the make but I got a very good guide with my 20 Tac. It fits the chamber properly and seals with an O ring so nothing gets into the action. I would rather have one like that than the generic MTM one any day.
Sinistral
Well-Known Member
Stoney Point adjustable in anodised metal - Gold & Red colour tubes.
You will need two. These are action-specific.
Only if you value precision.
ileso
Well-Known Member
A good guide will ensure that cleaning fluids do not seep into the action and trigger group whilst preventing the jag from damaging the throat and lands through misalignment of the cleaning rod.
I am curious.
By what mechanism do you think a cloth covered brass or aluminium jag could do any damage to the throat and lands if misaligned?
Alan
Excellent description and well put by @pinkfoot1. I personally don't use a guide and also share @Alantoo's opinion that a brass or alloy jag 'shouldn't' damage the throat or lands (it's a softer metal after all) but also see the point that misalignment and undue force may be damaging and guides do contain excess fluids, so a bore-guide has merit.
Alan,
I am fastidious in my maintenance and reloading and after segregating bullets and brass by weight and dimensions prior to loading with Forster diesď in the ongoing quest for accuracy and precision I want everything as as near perfect as possible. Rather than risk my aluminium jags picking up even the minutist speck of aluminium oxide or carbon which can possibly, no matter how remotely, mark the throat of my match barrels I choose to follow the advice of Lilja Barrels and use a guide.
Whilst there may well be world class shooters out there who swear by farmers baling twine impregnated with Ajax scouring powder, sadly I need all the help I can get.
David
I am fastidious in my maintenance and reloading and after segregating bullets and brass by weight and dimensions prior to loading with Forster diesď in the ongoing quest for accuracy and precision I want everything as as near perfect as possible. Rather than risk my aluminium jags picking up even the minutist speck of aluminium oxide or carbon which can possibly, no matter how remotely, mark the throat of my match barrels I choose to follow the advice of Lilja Barrels and use a guide.
Whilst there may well be world class shooters out there who swear by farmers baling twine impregnated with Ajax scouring powder, sadly I need all the help I can get.
David
I wasn't trying to put you on the spot but...
I do realise that soft metals can carry hard abrasive grit...I have diamond files and hones and my core drills are diamonds in a copper matrix.
I also understand the reason to keep the solvents out of the trigger mechanism/action...but even when I haven't used a bore guide I have not managed to make contact between the jag and barrel given that there is a patch wrapped over it keeping it centralised...let alone the softer material the jag is made of...hence my question.
Alan
p.s. I should add of course that the jag does contact the bore as it trails back out having lost its patch...but it does that whether there is a bore guide in place or not.
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My understanding of the purpose of the bore-guide was to keep the rod centralised and away from rubbing against the crucial throat area..... as it flexes on its way down the barrel? A bit like the need to pull a dreaded bore-snake straight rather than letting the cord run over the rim of the crown.
I use Dewey rods on the .243 up and a Tipton carbon fibre rod on the .17 & .20, I didn’t like the one ProShot stainless rod I bought.
I tend not to use a bore guide and it would be interesting to borescope the throat areas to see if there’s any apparent rod wear. Accuracy hasn’t suffered as far as I can see.
Fizz
Edit.... but then.... for the boreguide to be effective, it would need to be of a smaller diameter than the bore it was going into. The other useful thing about a boreguide is in keeping the rod supported in a straight line as pressure is applied to get the patch started in the bore. A tight patch could lead to the rod snatching sideways and bending the tip or the jag.... the reason I fell out of favour with the Pro-shot!
I use Dewey rods on the .243 up and a Tipton carbon fibre rod on the .17 & .20, I didn’t like the one ProShot stainless rod I bought.
I tend not to use a bore guide and it would be interesting to borescope the throat areas to see if there’s any apparent rod wear. Accuracy hasn’t suffered as far as I can see.
Fizz
Edit.... but then.... for the boreguide to be effective, it would need to be of a smaller diameter than the bore it was going into. The other useful thing about a boreguide is in keeping the rod supported in a straight line as pressure is applied to get the patch started in the bore. A tight patch could lead to the rod snatching sideways and bending the tip or the jag.... the reason I fell out of favour with the Pro-shot!
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That makes more sense and is the main reason why I use a bore guide...with the R8 I do not have the worry of action or trigger mechanism solvent contamination because I clean the barrel when it is removed from the stock.
@pinkfoot1 did specifically say it was the jag that did the damage which is what I was querying...
Though I am still trying to put this potential for damage while cleaning in perspective I suppose.
The difficulty I have is reconciling the likely damage to the throat and lands by either a patch-wrapped jag or indeed the burnishing effect of the side of the rod travelling under a few lbs of hand pressure at 1 or 2fps. Considering that before and after that slight liability for damage you are about to shove a few lumps of tightly fitting copper or gilding metal or gilding metal clad lead down the barrel 2000 times faster under a few thousand pounds of pressure...
The potential for the soft metal of the bullet surface to pick up any and all the abrasive particles of powder residue ( @pinkfoot1 's "minutest specs of aluminium oxide or carbon") from the previous shot and subsequently scoring them down the barrel, could only be prevented by the scrupulous cleaning (utilising a bore guide of course!) between each and every shot!
Alan
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