Ludicrious Lumens Vulpine mk3 n/v add on (questions)

New Avon Arms
W

Warbucks

Well-Known Member
Hi Lads.
I have had 15 night vision's, the best being a pvs14, and the Drone pro, and lots in-between (Wardy 700, Pard 007, 008, ect).
My main two question's are what i can call most of the bad points of night vision's rather than their good points, as most will id at 300 yds/m in perfect condition's.

I would like to ask Cottis and the other Vulpine mk3 owners/users the following question's.

First of the bad points, (1) what is the vulpine like for picking up rabbits/ foxes up against the back ground, ie the Wardy 700 is bad at picking up rabbits against stubble or in hedges, as you can go straight past them even though they are there.
(2) second and main bad point, when the water content picks up in the cold air later on in the night (water condensation on cars ect) will the Vulpine still allow you to keep shooting out to 150 yds/m, now i do understand that water content does effect all n/v, but the two Drone Pro 10x's that i own will still do 150-200 yds unless misty conditions turn's to just short of fog --------where as the Wardy 700 can typically perform well up to 12pm then when the water content picks up performance gets that bad its go home time.

Thanks lads and a merry christmas and happy new year to every one Dave (warbucks)
 
I have used the mk3 for a while now and think its superb especially considering its cost.

Previously i have had an archer ,longbow , ward800L , atn mars 6x dedicated tubed scope and i still have an atn 4k pro.

I cant really comment on hedges/stubble as i dont shoot anywhere that actually has any but watching foxs wander about out on the hill at 800 yards + is really nice to be able to do .
I actually spotted a heat source 1200 yards + the other night and confirmed it was a badger looking through the vulpine/march combo.

It certainly works with a high water content in the air and you can certainly see the water drifting in the wind but it is miles better image wise compared to the 800L i had .
 
I’d hoped this thread might have attracted more Vulpine users. Has anyone other than weejohn got one?
 
I have one, and I use it on my z6i, yes, probably not the best scope to use but can still see clearly out to 400yds plus, far more than I need to, and I get to keep my Swarovski for stalking. Only had a pard before, kept it about a week! Very happy with the mk3, would highly recommend.
 
I have one. Awesome add on. Finally found the perfect unit.

I used a Ward 700 for many many years and have used a Pard add on as well (not owned one though) The Ward is better than the Pard in my view. The camera seems to resolve better images and the screen looked better. It had a good battery, last ages and was simple to use. The let down was the short length you were able to push it on to the scope ocular which made for a somewhat shaky connection unless you bodged it (which was perfectably doable) and the on/off button was stupid in that it could turn on in your bag. It also cut off slightly the corners of your image, so you looked at a circle rather than a square TV screen resolving the entire image available through the day scope if that makes sense.

Anyhow, the Mk3 solves all those issues and some.

To start with, you can push the unit a long way on to your ocular (up to about 2 inches if your ocular will allow it) This results in a really square and tight union, so no unit getting squiffy and needing jogging every now and again. It also has mechanical focus via the actual unit in terms of focusing the unit on the crosshairs, so no need to adjust your diopter on day scope so that the Vulpine can "see" the crosshairs correctly. You put the unit on, twist a little knob and until you get a perfect picture and it is done. It takes about 1 second, maybe 2.

The on/off switch is easily accessible on the front of the unit and it will not accidently turn on by itself. The unit boots up in a second or two. Turn it on, wait a second and you are ready to shoot. Battery charges quick and I have not exhausted it yet but then I do not leave it on. I only turn it on for the shot. No idea how long it lasts if you were to leave it on. In built battery, so no ****ing about with removing batteries etc.

Performance wise is where this thing is best. The resolution and ability to deal with lots of IR is superb. I use it with a Solaris and off course, if you tighten the beam, turn it up to full and look at a target 20yds away, you will get some white out but still bizarrely it would just about be usable. In reality, I never use IR on tight beam on full power unless I am viewing some random animal 500yds away which is perfectly possible on high mag with my March Compact scope on x 25 magnification. most shot are 50-150yds when foxing and the unit it not fussy on IR or on scope focus either. I get in the field, put the rifle on sticks and look at a hedge or something around 75yds away and adjust the torch and dayscope focus to resolve a good image and then turn it all off and call it good. You can then use it for 50yds shots or even 200yd shots. It is simple, efficient and effective.

Screen wise, it is very good. The best thing is that the viewer does not cut off any corners of the image available through your dayscope and the view you see is perfectly square. It is like looking at a mini TV screen rather than something that is cut off or not perfectly whole if that makes sense.

It does not record (but does have an input for an ancillary device but I use it to shoot, not record stuff) or do anything flash. It allows you to shoot in the dark with minimum of fuss really really well. It is by far and away the best digital NV add on I have used and I have been using some form of NV since the late 90's when the ancient Gen1 tubes were being used by us for 20yd ratting. Those were the days.

Lastly, eye relief wise, because the unit is already short and can be pushed quite a long way on to the ocular bell of your scope, eye relief is fine. You cheek can sit on the stock normally without needing to muck about with risers or cheek pieces. I personally do not use massive scopes mounted high above the rifle, so this maybe helps. I just want the rifle to fall in to the shoulder and for my eye to fall perfectly on the viewing ocular. It does with the Vulpine.

Happy user here.
 
Thanks Horner, and a big thanks to Cottis for your long detailed reply.
Cottis, the negatives you talk about with the Wardy 700, i agree.
Cottis, i have read all your post on the vulpine even before i recently joined the forum, i have been using n/v 15 years now, and i knew when i read your posts " this guy knows what he is talking about" as well as some of the other members.
Every review i've read on the vulpine mk3, ( ludicrious lumens review page, and this forum) the worst negative ive read is its not 100% waterproof, no other negative comments, every thing else is positive, and most comment on how good the long range picture performance is, some of these's people are gamekeepers and or people that have had generation two or three tubed n/v -----surely some one isn't going to swop a archer or top end tubed stuff for a Vulpine mk3 if its a massive step backwards ?
I too have a Wardy 700 that ive had from new, it worked perfectly until i had "Clive" fit a 16mm lens in place of the 12mm one it came with, its never worked right since ------that's another story.
What i will say is that a correctly working "wardy 700" will out perform a Pard 008, because myself and a mate tested his Wardy 700 against my 008, same field same time same i/r, so if the Vulpine is better than the Wardy 700, this MUST make it better than the current dedicated digital scopes selling from £700 -£1100 ?.
I cannot understand why we don't hear more about the vulpine on the forums if its so good --------unless its because people want the recording facilities ?.

Dave (warbucks)
 
Hi Dave, I am also a Vulpine user after reading positive reviews and a conversation with @Cottis. It is a delight to use and out performs all other digital nv I have tried. I do want to put it side by side the new C50 from Pulsar just to scratch that itch. As I have said on another thread: 'The no change to head position (eye relief), clarity of pitcure, the screen size, the simplicity of set up and focus and the ease of use are all fantastic. It is not without a flaw or two though: it is not waterproof so can't be used in a serious downpour and another minor niggle is that it does not have a battery indicator. I have never run out of battery (on multiple all nighters) and simply charge it to full when returning from an outing. If you can see by these then you wouldn't regret it.' Andy at LL has been sound to deal with and his products are all well thought through. The 3D printed torch mounts are also better than offerings at double the price. Cheers.
 
Warbucks said:
Thanks Horner, and a big thanks to Cottis for your long detailed reply.
Cottis, the negatives you talk about with the Wardy 700, i agree.
Cottis, i have read all your post on the vulpine even before i recently joined the forum, i have been using n/v 15 years now, and i knew when i read your posts " this guy knows what he is talking about" as well as some of the other members.
Every review i've read on the vulpine mk3, ( ludicrious lumens review page, and this forum) the worst negative ive read is its not 100% waterproof, no other negative comments, every thing else is positive, and most comment on how good the long range picture performance is, some of these's people are gamekeepers and or people that have had generation two or three tubed n/v -----surely some one isn't going to swop a archer or top end tubed stuff for a Vulpine mk3 if its a massive step backwards ?
I too have a Wardy 700 that ive had from new, it worked perfectly until i had "Clive" fit a 16mm lens in place of the 12mm one it came with, its never worked right since ------that's another story.
What i will say is that a correctly working "wardy 700" will out perform a Pard 008, because myself and a mate tested his Wardy 700 against my 008, same field same time same i/r, so if the Vulpine is better than the Wardy 700, this MUST make it better than the current dedicated digital scopes selling from £700 -£1100 ?.
I cannot understand why we don't hear more about the vulpine on the forums if its so good --------unless its because people want the recording facilities ?.

Dave (warbucks)
Click to expand...
It does not seem to be very well marketed or maybe it is because it is sort of professional, DIY kit almost. It has had a few iterations and been improved on but during this time, it has been competing with Pards and other digi NV's. The market is pretty saturated. It is also not cheap relatively speaking, although having used one, I think it is decent value and I would always rather spend more and get more simplicity and more performance.

I use them so often that a few hundred quid here or there is not a consideration. I just want it to work as well as possible.

I have had a period of using dedicated but I just can never quite stick with having one rifle out of action. I only have four rifles and each sort of has multiple uses. I just cannot keep one or two back just for rabbit or foxing rifles. The Vulpine is the best current option for me.

I think many people who might be shooting at night maybe once or twice a month, the Pard is probably good all inclusive unit. If you are out a few times a week though, you want to miss as few as poss.
 
Warbucks said:
Hi Lads.
I have had 15 night vision's, the best being a pvs14, and the Drone pro, and lots in-between (Wardy 700, Pard 007, 008, ect).
My main two question's are what i can call most of the bad points of night vision's rather than their good points, as most will id at 300 yds/m in perfect condition's.

I would like to ask Cottis and the other Vulpine mk3 owners/users the following question's.

First of the bad points, (1) what is the vulpine like for picking up rabbits/ foxes up against the back ground, ie the Wardy 700 is bad at picking up rabbits against stubble or in hedges, as you can go straight past them even though they are there.
(2) second and main bad point, when the water content picks up in the cold air later on in the night (water condensation on cars ect) will the Vulpine still allow you to keep shooting out to 150 yds/m, now i do understand that water content does effect all n/v, but the two Drone Pro 10x's that i own will still do 150-200 yds unless misty conditions turn's to just short of fog --------where as the Wardy 700 can typically perform well up to 12pm then when the water content picks up performance gets that bad its go home time.

Thanks lads and a merry christmas and happy new year to every one Dave (warbucks)
Click to expand...
 
beanieboy said:
That's good to know. I would seriously consider one of these, although I have one of the original Pard 007's matched with a SRX and find it excellent.
Click to expand...
It's horses for courses. I just couldn't get on with the 007. You're welcome to come have a view of the MK3 if you're ever up in the NW of the country👍
 
Interesting reading on the Vulpine. Limited information online and I've found this thread most helpful as would be very interested in the unit. Is scope compatibility similar to that of other rear add ons?
 
zerovarm said:
Interesting reading on the Vulpine. Limited information online and I've found this thread most helpful as would be very interested in the unit. Is scope compatibility similar to that of other rear add ons?
Click to expand...
Pretty much. I use mine mostly with a March Compact and also with Delta Titanium HD's. Both work very well.

Not tried with Schott glassed scopes like Swaro, Leica or S&B and last time I tried a Vortex scope with an older add on, it was rubbish.

I think the laser IR torches we use now make schott glassed scopes useable but you will not go wrong with high quality Japanese glass (generally speaking) or the lower priced and more affordable stuff like Nikko Stirling and Hawke.
 
Thank you @Cottis After a no frills unit that just works. Was always a Wardy 700 fan and now ready to move away from the Pard 007. The new dedicated NV offerings are tempting but use across multiple rifles for me is a must and to be honest I like the idea of maintaining use of my day scopes. How do you find the process of swapping the unit between rifles? This is one area where the Pard obviously shines.

PJ
 
zerovarm said:
Thank you @Cottis After a no frills unit that just works. Was always a Wardy 700 fan and now ready to move away from the Pard 007. The new dedicated NV offerings are tempting but use across multiple rifles for me is a must and to be honest I like the idea of maintaining use of my day scopes. How do you find the process of swapping the unit between rifles? This is one area where the Pard obviously shines.

PJ
Click to expand...
I can take a picture/video later of what I have done to the ocular bells of my two main rifles that I use the Vulpine on. With my old Ward 700, I found the shims crap because the thin contact area of the adapter meant it didn't really work to my liking, so I just built up many wraps of insulation tape on the scope ocular so it was only ever so slightly small than the opening on the ward that went over the scope. Then I tightened it down and it worked fine.

With the Vulpine, shims do work well because of the large contact area between unit and scope. I thererefore use the supplied shims. A wrap of insulation tape on the ocular first, then the shim, then attach in place with another couple of tight wraps over the shim. The Vulpine then slips over nice and easy when the screw is untightened and fits on not only snug but more importantly, square to the ocular lens. You then just tighten down the clamping screw as you did with the Ward. Takes 10 seconds.

I can take a short vid later showing you if you like but it is way more usable and stable than the Ward 700 i used to use.
 
I have a pard 007, they are very good for little money and for a lot of people doing rats or rimfire rabbits they are more than enough, but IMO they arn't a 20 hr per week foxing n/v you need something better, ( a lot of the reviews on Ludicrios lumens web site talk about the vulpine being a long range foxing n/v), it will be interesting to see a comparison between the vulpine and the c50 in night mode, with what i've read my money would go on the vulpine out performing the c50 (with the correct scope and laser) .

Dave (warbucks)
 
Cottis said:
I can take a picture/video later of what I have done to the ocular bells of my two main rifles that I use the Vulpine on. With my old Ward 700, I found the shims crap because the thin contact area of the adapter meant it didn't really work to my liking, so I just built up many wraps of insulation tape on the scope ocular so it was only ever so slightly small than the opening on the ward that went over the scope. Then I tightened it down and it worked fine.

With the Vulpine, shims do work well because of the large contact area between unit and scope. I thererefore use the supplied shims. A wrap of insulation tape on the ocular first, then the shim, then attach in place with another couple of tight wraps over the shim. The Vulpine then slips over nice and easy when the screw is untightened and fits on not only snug but more importantly, square to the ocular lens. You then just tighten down the clamping screw as you did with the Ward. Takes 10 seconds.

I can take a short vid later showing you if you like but it is way more usable and stable than the Ward 700 i used to use.
Click to expand...
I get the basic idea but only if you had time. Essentially a bit of fettling to begin with getting shims in place with any scopes it will be used on then just leave in place and swap Vulpine as needed. Thanks again
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Our passion is your passion... stalk with us!
Back
Top