Testing the new pard nv007sp- lrf on rabbits!
- Thread starter ianm
- Start date
The pic above of the sheep was using the Blade. The real image through the PARD was a lot better and I would have had no problem shooting them at 329yds.
If you're going to be within 200m for 90% of the shots, and lightweight would be nice, then the Blade is ideal.
That's based on my rifle scope, as a lot depends on what rifle scope you're using.
Smellydog
Well-Known Member
Is the blade the dark engine one??
I'd be mounting it on a sightmark wraith but may use it on my add on sytong also.
Overlay
Well-Known Member
I’m using the blade and a small covert IR Clive ward made up for me and they both work very very well in fact on my 204 and a pard 007 v the blade has put another 50 yds on what I normally shoot out to and I work on back stop and clear ID
Getting hold of Clive has for me never been a problem, has always returned my call and has even given me one to one tuition on my T ceptor which I wouldn't get anywhere else that’s for sure
For me his gear is top notch and a back up service better than some
Getting hold of Clive has for me never been a problem, has always returned my call and has even given me one to one tuition on my T ceptor which I wouldn't get anywhere else that’s for sure
For me his gear is top notch and a back up service better than some
hunter243
Well-Known Member
I've recently started using a blade having previously been using sirius xtl and dark engine max. Coupled with pard 007 A and S models behind Hawke fast mount and Vantage scopes I notice very little if any difference in illumination between the three lasers but for me the blade wins hands down because of it's size, weight and silent switch.
Yes Clive Wards Dark Engine Blade.
BenBhoy
Well-Known Member
Likewise, messaging inbox on here too @Clive Ward & he's always got back to me in good time.
May take a while sometimes but always delivers and is very helpful with some great products and will go over and above when able if you want something yesterday then maybe not.
Had a wardy 800 which was great and still use one of his thermal scopes and could not fault either and any queries always there to help and advise and worth the wait imo.
Had a wardy 800 which was great and still use one of his thermal scopes and could not fault either and any queries always there to help and advise and worth the wait imo.
Hi All,
Just to chime in. Very busy at the moment but Ben helpfully tagged me in.
The Dark Engine BLADE is supplied as standard for wide FOV, ideal for dedicated scopes with lower magnification 3.5x.
However the beam can be tightened to make it much more suitable for add ons, with a simple user modification. We can also do this for you at time of manufacture. Just mention you want it for an add on in the comments section of the order.
To tighten the beam:
Remove the battery!
Remove the grub screw holding the lens with a .9mm allen key. Don't lose it. It's very small.
Unscrew the objective lens with the torch vertically, lens up.
Under the lens is a loose o-ring. Remove this as it's to be used as a spacer later.
Remove the pill by unscrewing with a pair of tweezers or needle nose pliers.
Fit the o-ring onto the back of the pill, over the thread and up against the shoulder. This will space it out from the body.
Refit the pill until you feel it tighten onto the o-ring and then tighten 1/4 turn more.
Refit the lens and grub screw.
That will completely transform the apparent power when using an add on and higher magnification.
Cheers
Clive
Just to chime in. Very busy at the moment but Ben helpfully tagged me in.
The Dark Engine BLADE is supplied as standard for wide FOV, ideal for dedicated scopes with lower magnification 3.5x.
However the beam can be tightened to make it much more suitable for add ons, with a simple user modification. We can also do this for you at time of manufacture. Just mention you want it for an add on in the comments section of the order.
To tighten the beam:
Remove the battery!
Remove the grub screw holding the lens with a .9mm allen key. Don't lose it. It's very small.
Unscrew the objective lens with the torch vertically, lens up.
Under the lens is a loose o-ring. Remove this as it's to be used as a spacer later.
Remove the pill by unscrewing with a pair of tweezers or needle nose pliers.
Fit the o-ring onto the back of the pill, over the thread and up against the shoulder. This will space it out from the body.
Refit the pill until you feel it tighten onto the o-ring and then tighten 1/4 turn more.
Refit the lens and grub screw.
That will completely transform the apparent power when using an add on and higher magnification.
Cheers
Clive
ianm
Active Member
My mate has an archer fitted with a photonis xr5 tube, yet he uses a Drone x 10 and a pard for rimfire use. I have a ward 800 here and it is ok but i think this gen2 pard is better + the lrf makes it extremely useful on a rimfire or air rifle.
No problems at all.
I don't think it is much use and it will drain the battery.
The new pard sound like a match made in heaven for for the air gunner who wants to use the gun to its full potential and going back to my wardy 800 days shot everything with it from rats with air gun to foxs with various centrefires but then the journey begins and road to ruin
. Sounds like the pard is probably all anyone really needs for everything within reason and night vision limitations for most people.
Foxyboy43
Well-Known Member
If you don’t want/need a rangefinder just go for the 007 16mm and a decent IR or a 008P again with a decent IR. I started with the 007 on my .222 and was very pleased with it then replaced it with the 008P and used an assortment of add-ons including a Dragonfly which was crystal clear - until it died! Using both of the Pards (007 on .22, .17hmr and 6.5x55SE and 008 permanently on the .222) now and with a Sirius IR I can easily identify quarry beyond 350m plus the Sirius has a great flood function which fills the two Pards’ screens - I also have a Solaris which is like a pencil beam laser but not really suitable below 200m as it is sooooo narrow a beam.
Smellydog
Well-Known Member
I already have a sightmark wraith 4k that is going on the triple.If you don’t want/need a rangefinder just go for the 007 16mm and a decent IR or a 008P again with a decent IR. I started with the 007 on my .222 and was very pleased with it then replaced it with the 008P and used an assortment of add-ons including a Dragonfly which was crystal clear - until it died! Using both of the Pards (007 on .22, .17hmr and 6.5x55SE and 008 permanently on the .222) now and with a Sirius IR I can easily identify quarry beyond 350m plus the Sirius has a great flood function which fills the two Pards’ screens - I also have a Solaris which is like a pencil beam laser but not really suitable below 200m as it is sooooo narrow a beam.
Foxyboy43
Well-Known Member
BenBhoy
Well-Known Member
How does it compare to the wulf 4k you had mate? They're going cheap now on OPW
Smellydog
Well-Known Member
Very simple....like me.Nice! Hopefully not as many sodding buttons as the Pard 008P!
Enjoy.
Smellydog
Well-Known Member
I really liked the wulf Ben bit it kept freezing.
It had good features.
It was 4k just as this wraith is and to be honest I find the wraith as good an image but better due to its simplicity.
What I don't like about these dedicated units are that you are screwed when or if they pack up. For instance if my add on sytong runs flat it's a two second job to swap a cell. Or remove the unit and fit a lamp.
Now pard have a shorter unit to assist normal scope use and eye relief I could be tempted to return to that method.
Overlay
Well-Known Member
Hi SD
My work small bore rifles 22lr 22 hornet and 204 I've got the Pard 007 v with hawke scopes all the same and they all work perfectly but I carry 2 of the 007 v’s just in casey nothing replaces being 30 miles from home and the nv packs up and also a decent stand alone lamp and IR
Smellydog
Well-Known Member
Absolutely.
When I was looking at the Wraith because the Wulf packed up I was also tempted to go for the sytong 77 to run alongside my 66.
I also carry alternative methods in my car but can not with a dedicated unit
I do miss having the options.
Normal scope for day time.
As it goes dark clamp the add on unit or just a lamp.
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