I’m going to be starting out at reloading, not got all my equipment yet but going to ask a few questions if you all don’t mind? I’m using 22-250 Hornady v max 55 gr factory ammo & wanted to hand load a load that is more or less the same. What I want to know is what primers, bullets & powder I need to get a load roughly the same?
Reloading
- Thread starter Rogerp
- Start date
for a start you will not be able to get the same powder ! buy some suitable powder, some 55gr v-max bullets, which ever primer you can find , keep and reuse you cases ,BUY A RELOADING MANUAL ,start at the lowest suggested powder charge and work up slowly .there are no safe short cuts. good luck. look at the powder listed for 22-250 in the reloading manual
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Small rifle primers ! Are you sure about that ?
Some how I manage to shoe horn in large rifle primers into my 22250 cases. The small ones are a bit loose and let's the powder dribble out.
Reloader 15 is very good but like unicorn tears so I switched to viht 140. Ramshot tac or big game are said to be good.
About 36grains will be there or there abouts. But start at about 34.5-35grains and work up.
Reloader 15 is very good but like unicorn tears so I switched to viht 140. Ramshot tac or big game are said to be good.
About 36grains will be there or there abouts. But start at about 34.5-35grains and work up.
Firefly
Well-Known Member
No, I made the assumption they’d be the same as a 222 rem. I stand corrected !
Foxyboy43
Well-Known Member
Not the norm , so is that available to purchase over here without having to import privately ?
Same here , I'm a relative newcomer to the 22-250. 50 grain Vmax + N140 = The easiest load I've ever developed , a repeatable .3 . I bought mine for peanuts for a project and genuinely expected it to be goosed . I'm going to hold off .
long_range_rob
Well-Known Member
That’s the Vhit app data for 55gn. Start low, I would recommend N140 and whatever large rifle primers you can find! Keep COL to the same as factory and you won’t go far wrong. Take your time with load testing as your calibre is quite hot and long strings may give false results due to barrel heating.
Gentlemen,
If he is trying to duplicate a factory load, he'll likely need a chronograph to establish the velocity his factory ammo has out of his particular rifle.
To the OP,
Beyond that, (like mentioned) read your manual. Select a powder based on the load data in the manual, where the starting and max loads (for that bullet weight) bracket your desired end state velocity. Then work up a load. Also, understand, factory loads do not typically use "cannister grade" (stuff people buy in stores) gun powders. They use industry supplied bulk powders which are then blended to achieve a desired velocity and pressure. So, the home reloader can not create an exact duplicate most times, but they can develop one that has similar pressure and velocity, which will yield (typically) the same results as factory bought ammunition. There are exceptions to this rule, but it is rare when factory ammo uses cannister grade powders (308FGMM and early 6.5CM ammo come to mind as ones that used cannister grade powders).
If he is trying to duplicate a factory load, he'll likely need a chronograph to establish the velocity his factory ammo has out of his particular rifle.
To the OP,
Beyond that, (like mentioned) read your manual. Select a powder based on the load data in the manual, where the starting and max loads (for that bullet weight) bracket your desired end state velocity. Then work up a load. Also, understand, factory loads do not typically use "cannister grade" (stuff people buy in stores) gun powders. They use industry supplied bulk powders which are then blended to achieve a desired velocity and pressure. So, the home reloader can not create an exact duplicate most times, but they can develop one that has similar pressure and velocity, which will yield (typically) the same results as factory bought ammunition. There are exceptions to this rule, but it is rare when factory ammo uses cannister grade powders (308FGMM and early 6.5CM ammo come to mind as ones that used cannister grade powders).
mike243
Well-Known Member
there is no need to load for a specific velocity, other than sub sonic, surely its best to reload for accuracy and let the velocity be what it is, work up a load for the best accuracy, chances are you will get towards max load, why try to rince every last fps at the expense of accuracy, with a death ray like .22-250 the fox will have no clue anyway and at hunting ranges the drop difference will hardly be noticeable
I have been told that Varget is good in .22-250 or its substitute "Winchester Staball Match" but dont take my word for it, and good luck with finding a supply of primers
I have been told that Varget is good in .22-250 or its substitute "Winchester Staball Match" but dont take my word for it, and good luck with finding a supply of primers
Perhaps I am misunderstanding his intent to "duplicate" a factory load then(?). I assumed he just wanted to "duplicate" it, so that factory and home reloads count be used interchangeably. i.e. Reload for most his needs, but if in a pinch, be able to use some factory loads that could be purchased at the local store/RFD. Creedmoor shooters used to do that (hence why the early ammo had the load data printed on the factory ammo box, and why a "standard" 6.5 140gr load has always been 42.5 grs. Because that was the load data on the original factory ammo). Which is ironic when you think about it, since that load data is considered "over max" today, according to the anemic load data on the Hodgdon load data website. But that is another topic altogether...
Len the dog
Well-Known Member
I started with what powder & primers I could get hold of, CFE223 and Federal ’large’ rifle gold medal.
I worked up to a load of 39.2 grains of powder with 50gr Vmax, my benchmark was the excellent factory load Norma 50gr Vmax, 0.5 MOA and good velocity out of my 20” barrel.
I started low and worked up but found that above this the accuracy started to drop off and then eventually started to get a stiff bolt so settled on the 39.2 grains. Incidentally this gives near identical velocities to the factory Norma.
I then tried some 55gr Blitzking and found that the accuracy matches the Vmax with the same powder charge, but obviously with a proportionally lower velocity, again I started lower and worked up in 0.2gr increments.
The rifle is a T3X lite stainless in 22-250.
I worked up to a load of 39.2 grains of powder with 50gr Vmax, my benchmark was the excellent factory load Norma 50gr Vmax, 0.5 MOA and good velocity out of my 20” barrel.
I started low and worked up but found that above this the accuracy started to drop off and then eventually started to get a stiff bolt so settled on the 39.2 grains. Incidentally this gives near identical velocities to the factory Norma.
I then tried some 55gr Blitzking and found that the accuracy matches the Vmax with the same powder charge, but obviously with a proportionally lower velocity, again I started lower and worked up in 0.2gr increments.
The rifle is a T3X lite stainless in 22-250.
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