T-cut perfect paint additive for dry tumble dryer

The No1 App in Europe for Hunting Area Management - MyHunt
F

Floralys

Well-Known Member
Hi,
in one of my previous threads people advised to use car wax as an additive to make brass more clean and somewhat shiny since it seems like just walnut media or chicken corn is not enough to remove oxidation from popped cases.

I am not quite sure what product I should look for :/
Comments mentioned t-cut but I am not sure what product they used.
Is any car vax will do like t-cut perfect paint that sold in bottles or I should look for metal polish that are sold in tubes?

Thanks.
 
T Cut is like Brasso but for cars before T Cut some used newspaper and Brasso. I have used it on guns, truly, for stocks that have been spray lacquered and then get scratched. The Scratch Remover stuff that comes in a plastic red bottle. But I would not use it brass cases for reloading the same reasons Brasso is advised against. And also I don't think it'd do anything removing dirt and grime that hot soapy water wouldn't. Save your money on the TCut and save the Brasso for those brass cases you want to mount and display in the man cave. Not the ones you want to fire in your gun.
 
Last edited:
Any type of "cleaner wax" should work. You're just looking for a car polish that has a very fine abrasive in it (like the old vintage Turtle Wax, that's no longer made).
 
Rusty Gate said:
Touch of Brasso dribbled in & let it run
Click to expand...
Yes, but cleaner car wax leaves a fine film of wax that prevents oxidation. That's the real benefit of using it over Brasso and other polishes. Even the factories use a wax additive to the rinse water for their brass & bullets, for the same reason.

Same thing with using kerosene and rouge; the petroleum film prevents oxidation.
 
Something like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Turtle-Wax-51796-Scratches-Restorer/dp/B01B4Y8MWS/ref=sr_1_7?content-id=amzn1.sym.306fc632-b708-44a1-b889-4a72bb15bd0a:amzn1.sym.306fc632-b708-44a1-b889-4a72bb15bd0a&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.UkbyM_o_sPuuxCXbyjrZNyxU7kY_RfnJCpzoephBKaYj3C_Yyi4w494VH7D-UWR9Hu0n1oXjzlLUX78qgm45WCWQHaIH4Fl9U3pNQdTn_dVe7-CO_THD7WeFYP6M_Ia9aS2SRYcp79Vq-jtwKzv7PUcSv5OSYJBCw0YdTUVhdmVckUCGkuhAEpk5f0UqN05oU7uTdDmf5YpEcj6gtj99Rx1NDdSftHOJ5dNA94t8SURaL696ffcCvqkEQwignMt-kSipBynRNolAIhSsA8XeZMaTNwK13t6Eyqt3XY-eUVg.18mvSvkzV4wQWgiK0oyi4FPg7gh9sGc4uxgFUQV5DxI&dib_tag=se&keywords=car+polish&pd_rd_r=1e6c0923-dac3-4cf1-9ef5-a2034b467b17&pd_rd_w=tHIUj&pd_rd_wg=QfcyK&pf_rd_p=306fc632-b708-44a1-b889-4a72bb15bd0a&pf_rd_r=A059BN5AEBYVS7TZY580&qid=1714429510&sr=8-7&th=1

But with a wax finish.
 
MarinePMI said:
But with a wax finish.
Click to expand...
Like this? (If wet tumbling)


I may give it a go as the tarnish that comes on the ever so shiny wet tumbles brass annoys me!!

Would you add to the water you rinse the brass in too?
 
Personally I avoid the super shiny polished look as other than cosmetic appeal I don't see that it has an advantage.
Conversely I can see that clean but slightly less smooth surfaces on cases could be beneficial by marginally gripping chamber walls better and thus less bolt face thrust is exerted. ( Have you ever noticed how new Lapua cases, reputably some of the best, are not highly polished.)
 
8x57 said:
Personally I avoid the super shiny polished look as other than cosmetic appeal I don't see that it has an advantage.
Conversely I can see that clean but slightly less smooth surfaces on cases could be beneficial by marginally gripping chamber walls better and thus less bolt face thrust is exerted. ( Have you ever noticed how new Lapua cases, reputably some of the best, are not highly polished.)
Click to expand...
Yep I gave up cleaning my brass other than a wipe to remove die lube. It makes zero difference to accuracy or anything else tbh and it’s another process!! Sold my vibratory cleaner too….
 
I tend to just clean my cases now sufficient to ensure that I'm not putting and grit and dirt in the dies, and enough so that I can inspect the cases for damage easily.
 
8x57 said:
Personally I avoid the super shiny polished look as other than cosmetic appeal I don't see that it has an advantage.
Conversely I can see that clean but slightly less smooth surfaces on cases could be beneficial by marginally gripping chamber walls better and thus less bolt face thrust is exerted. ( Have you ever noticed how new Lapua cases, reputably some of the best, are not highly polished.)
Click to expand...
Everybody knows shiny brass gives better groups :norty:
 
25 Sharps said:
Like this? (If wet tumbling)


I may give it a go as the tarnish that comes on the ever so shiny wet tumbles brass annoys me!!

Would you add to the water you rinse the brass in too?
Click to expand...
Typically, I just rinse off the brass with tap water. If your water is relatively soft, you'll have no problems. After rinsing, I just dump the cases into a towel, and use the "bowling ball" method of removing the excess water. Then into an oven on the "warm" setting for about 20 mins.

BTW: The "bowling ball" method is simply dropping the cases onto a large towel, then folding each side (lengthwise) over the brass. Holding each end of the towel (to keep the flaps folded over the brass, you then roll the brass from one end of the towel to the other, keeping the brass in the (now made) tube of a towel). This wipes all the excess water off the exterior of the case, as well as knocks water free from inside the case. After rolling the cases back and forth several times, just move one hand over an old cookie sheet, and let the cases slide out of the end of the towel onto the cookie sheet. Make sure they're laying flat, and toss into the oven. This will also dislodge any remaining pins that may have adhered to the inside of the case due to any water inside the case causing surface tension to stick pins to the inside case wall.

And yes, that looks like the right kind of car wash (looks very much like the "Meguir's brand we have here).
 
8x57 said:
Personally I avoid the super shiny polished look as other than cosmetic appeal I don't see that it has an advantage.
Conversely I can see that clean but slightly less smooth surfaces on cases could be beneficial by marginally gripping chamber walls better and thus less bolt face thrust is exerted. ( Have you ever noticed how new Lapua cases, reputably some of the best, are not highly polished.)
Click to expand...
That is only because Lapua does not polish after annealing. They are polished in an earlier stage of manufacturing. Many other manufacturers polish a final time after annealing, which is why the annealing color change isn't visible.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

It doesn't go bang ! Hang fire ! and short order cooks !
Replies
11
Views
3K
Mr. Gain
Mr. Gain
Leather Conditioner Recipe
Replies
5
Views
3K
greylag
G
https://Immersive-optics.com/
Back
Top