I 3d print things. Iteration development is a big part... but this is pretty obvious concept that got overlooked. However wouldn't be hard for someone to spend a few hours and fix Sauers irresponsibility out. How many are out there and are you allowed to alter a stock legally? Other than that.. mr sandpaper.
Design fault!!?
- Thread starter Hebgirl
- Start date
nun_hunter
Well-Known Member
Can you replace the 5mm Allen key adjuster with a 5mm thumb screw or similar so you have tool less adjustments?
Or leave the bolt in? I appreciate the HO guidance suggests best practice to remove the bolt but it is only guidance and where it's practicable. Unless there is something about the Saturday that means you must remove the bolt.
Or leave the bolt in? I appreciate the HO guidance suggests best practice to remove the bolt but it is only guidance and where it's practicable. Unless there is something about the Saturday that means you must remove the bolt.
On a carbon fibre stock? That is going to be a mess, and the amount of material you would have to remove would be so large as to render the cheek piece redundant, as well as causing a drastic loss in its resale value.
Someone told me once, "real engineers don't use Dremels", and he was not far wrong. Die grinders, whether pneumatic or electric, are a quick bodge tool.
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Stalker-of-the-deer
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't fancy doing that to a 7k rifle
They have, but in other applications. I shoot a System Gemini (Designed and manufactured by Robert Nibbs) target rifle stock which has an excellent adjustable cheek piece, and the genius design is that it hinges up at the rear, so when you move the bolt to the rear, the cheek piece lifts - when the bolt is thrown forward, the cheek piece clicks back down into place! To my knowledge, nobody has done this on a stalking rifle - maybe because it isn't a silent operation..... but in terms of function for target rifle - it's genius! On my Tikka T3 Super Varmint, the cheek riser is the simple 'knob on the stock' locking device - works perfectly well! Jon
I wouldn't spend £7k on a rifle that didn't allow you to remove the bolt
I’ve used these Thumb Wrenches with the relevant insert (socket or hex key) to tighten NV/Thermal scopes to rails for years now without a problem or loss of POI… small enough to keep in a pocket….
……wonder if it would work in your case?
I got mine from Wilko but they’ve since closed their stores although they still sell through The Range so I guess your other alternatives are either Amazon or eBay…..
Cheers,
Fizz
……wonder if it would work in your case?
I got mine from Wilko but they’ve since closed their stores although they still sell through The Range so I guess your other alternatives are either Amazon or eBay…..
Cheers,
Fizz
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
If people stopped putting enormous objective lenses/scopes on scope mounts that already sit too high, there would be no need for a cheek riser in the first place.
If I was you, I’d get a slim little 1” tubed scope with something like 42 or 44mm lens (Schmidt Summit?) and extra low ring mounts
If I was you, I’d get a slim little 1” tubed scope with something like 42 or 44mm lens (Schmidt Summit?) and extra low ring mounts
I’m not going to start drilling a £7k rifle!!!!!!!
They’re low rise mounts…..
Thanks. Was good to catch up and hope you’re doing ok.I'm sure he'd rather you adapted it and used it well, than forever struggle because one of its features suited him but not you.
He was a big chap, and you're a small lass, so some alterations are bound to be required.
Was good to see you at the Stalking Show. Hopefully catch up again next year.
All the best
I prefer to take the bolt out when travelling. Just always have done.
It was not a problem for my husband….he was over 6 feet tall. He bought this rifle shortly before he died so I decided to keep it and use it as a backup and for sentimental reasons.
Stalker-of-the-deer
Well-Known Member
Other option is just keep the bolt in, personally I think you have a lovely rifle there and it would be a shame to start butchering the stock for somthing simple as the bolt.
Only other solutions are really to drop the combat each time or take the stock off later will keep the height atleast
Had a 404 and really didn't want to get rid of it tbh
Only other solutions are really to drop the combat each time or take the stock off later will keep the height atleast
Had a 404 and really didn't want to get rid of it tbh
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
404’s are excellent rifles.
Pistol a picture of the scope and mounts
Pistol a picture of the scope and mounts
Congratulations all!
With not the least desire to offend, I don't think I've ever read a thread on SD with more silly replies* except for those who recommend keeping an Allen key handy, which is the solution.
Buy at least 3 suitable T-handle Allen keys: keep one with your stalking kit, and another in the car you take stalking, and another wherever you clean your rifle. They are cheap.
Do not alter your stock in any way.
As many do, Sauer's designers had a special visit from the Bright Idea Fairy, and opted for a "neat feature" that is actually a nuisance. Designers gotta design. (And anyway, Blaser had already found the right solution, so they couldn't go there).
And as I'm being rampantly dogmatic today:
1. Any rifle that is to be used with a scope should have a stock with an adjustable comb.
2. Fixed high combs that still let you remove the bolt are acceptable.
3. Other solutions are inferior bodges (and I speak as someone who has bought several over the years).
Disclaimer: I have 2 rifles that don't conform to rules 1 & 2. One of them will get a Kalix CR-2 once I have the funds for the installation and refinishing. Fitting one to my drilling transformed its shooting properties. The other is a classic M-Sch M1903 that I am learning (a) to shoot "head-up" and (b) to trust the iron sights on, as to modify the stock would be a crime.
*Barring the Politics forum, of course.
With not the least desire to offend, I don't think I've ever read a thread on SD with more silly replies* except for those who recommend keeping an Allen key handy, which is the solution.
Buy at least 3 suitable T-handle Allen keys: keep one with your stalking kit, and another in the car you take stalking, and another wherever you clean your rifle. They are cheap.
Do not alter your stock in any way.
As many do, Sauer's designers had a special visit from the Bright Idea Fairy, and opted for a "neat feature" that is actually a nuisance. Designers gotta design. (And anyway, Blaser had already found the right solution, so they couldn't go there).
And as I'm being rampantly dogmatic today:
1. Any rifle that is to be used with a scope should have a stock with an adjustable comb.
2. Fixed high combs that still let you remove the bolt are acceptable.
3. Other solutions are inferior bodges (and I speak as someone who has bought several over the years).
Disclaimer: I have 2 rifles that don't conform to rules 1 & 2. One of them will get a Kalix CR-2 once I have the funds for the installation and refinishing. Fitting one to my drilling transformed its shooting properties. The other is a classic M-Sch M1903 that I am learning (a) to shoot "head-up" and (b) to trust the iron sights on, as to modify the stock would be a crime.
*Barring the Politics forum, of course.
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A reason why we prefer the little clamp wheel on our stocks, saves you looking for a tool. Also some shooting positions require slightly different cheek height. Remington 700 can remove the bolt without dropping the cheek on our Evolution stock, even long action but for T3 the cheek has to be dropped.
We think it is vital that a bolt must be able to be removed in the field without a tool, even to just remove dirt.
edi
We think it is vital that a bolt must be able to be removed in the field without a tool, even to just remove dirt.
edi
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
Anyone who doesn’t remove their bolt to check for obstructions needs to revisit some basic safety aspects of firearms handling - IMHO
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