Fast and flat - really??.....

A nice selection of replies. I can see the method to zeroing up so you shoot high at 100 yards then plumb for say 200' i guess it depends on what is your most common shot range. that said, for a simpleton i would stick to drop only.

No, make it simpler, zero 1 inch high and just shoot at the deer. I don't consider drop when shooting at deer. Regards JCS
 
you don't zero an inch high , you zero further than 100m and that makes your trajectory 1" HIGH at 100 ?
 
exactly,I cant get over how many people just guess by zeoring 1 inch high at 100 yards,get the boards out and actually see what your rig is doing,it may surprize a few

Bingo!

Zero at 100yds
Decent reticule
Time at the range 200-x00
Learn your clicks and "drops at each 100yds increment, AND with a decent reticule, learn which line/blob relates to what range...
Zero at 100yds means that to check zero I just shoot at the middle of the target at 100yds.
I might be a simple soul, but it works for me
 
I like your approach! I was on the hill one time with a stalker, I asked about adjustment for a 180 yard shot with the deer in my sights, he said "straight at it sonny jim"!!.... Job done.

To be honest I am often more concerned about wind and its effect on a bullet. A 20, 30 or even 50 mph wind is a pretty common occurrence on Scottish hill ground. Factor in a bit of rotor / turbulence and you are not trying to dope a simple crosswind. If I was shooting all day everyday then instinct can take over - I'm not so again best way of reducing error is to get closer. In woodland / farmland unseen grass, twigs etc can have a similar effect.
 
Bingo!

Zero at 100yds
Decent reticule
Time at the range 200-x00
Learn your clicks and "drops at each 100yds increment, AND with a decent reticule, learn which line/blob relates to what range...
Zero at 100yds means that to check zero I just shoot at the middle of the target at 100yds.
I might be a simple soul, but it works for me

No time for clicks, sticks, or other adjustments where I hunt. Most often, when you see the deer, they have seen you! A quick mental adjustment for wind and range and you shoot.~Muir
 
No time for clicks, sticks, or other adjustments where I hunt.

Zero - 100yds
Blob 1 - 160yds
Line 1 - 210yds
Blob 2 - 270yds

and:

100yds - Zero
125yds - -0.5"
150yds - -1.0"
175yds - -2.0"
200yds - -3.5"
225yds - -5.5"
250yds - -7.5"

It's all on a couple of stickers on my stock, which I check regularly before and whilst out
 
Hey! What works, works! My hunting scopes are pretty simple and uncluttered so all the adjustments are purely mental. My blessing is that I get to shoot a lot. It helps.~Muir
 
Same Muir i just put my cross hair on the beast and pull the trigger middle to high shoulder that does me out to 90 mtr i stalk the rest.
 
you don't zero an inch high , you zero further than 100m and that makes your trajectory 1" HIGH at 100 ?

Absolutely! all this so called "zeroing" one inch, half an inch or whatever high @ 100yds hoping you will be on at 150 or so is just guess work, if you want to be on at 150yds then zero at one 150yds!
Otherwise zero at 100yds, memorise your MPBR for your calibre, any further then that dial in.

Ian.
 
Absolutely! all this so called "zeroing" one inch, half an inch or whatever high @ 100yds hoping you will be on at 150 or so is just guess work, if you want to be on at 150yds then zero at one 150yds!
Otherwise zero at 100yds, memorise your MPBR for your calibre, any further then that dial in.

Ian.

at last some sence :banghead:
 
A quick mental adjustment for wind and range and you shoot.~Muir.

Always worked / s for me, from a Diana .177, right on up to my .270!:D

Some gunlayers do it by that, "Feels right split second"
 
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you don't zero an inch high , you zero further than 100m and that makes your trajectory 1" HIGH at 100 ?

I wonder whether this is based on a different understanding to mine of what is meant by 'to zero'?

I think zeroing your sight/rifle combo is setting your sight to a notional (not actual, as there'll always be some) elevation and a true (hopefully...) wind zero.

It seems to me therefore entirely correct to speak of 'zeroing a rifle 1" high at 100yds'. It is certainly a better description that 'zeroing at 182yds', or whatever the range at which the POA and POI coincide, if you shot at 100yds.

All that it means is that at the notional elevation-zero of the sight, the POI is 1" above the POA at 100yds. This seems to me still to be a 'zero'.
 
Its the above that seperates point and hope shooters from the precision shooters:stir:

Ian.

​Ian

I recently checked the ‘zero’ of my 243 Ackley and got the attached results. I also know from previous checks that if I fire either of my rifles at a target 50 yds away, the ‘Point of Aim’ and ‘Point of Impact’ coincide. Spookily, when I place the target at 160 yds, again the ‘Point of Aim’ and ‘Point of Impact’ coincide. Shot prone with a Harris bipod and no rests under the butt. I check the 'zero' of my rifles on a regular basis.

Regards

JCS
 
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If I'm not close enough to shoot at it without having to actually calculate the drop and drastically change my aim point then I don't tend to shoot it. Guess that's a bit of a lame excuse but I'd rather not clear up the mess of a badly placed shot . I've done that before .
 
I zero my PCP air rifle at precisely 33yds.
I do this because I know from the calculator and tested results that it gives me the maximum possible MPBR of a 2" target
Its a total pain to do but with loopy projectiles is a must.
Past 50yds I need to holdover
I don't shoot past 50yds


lots of people shooting x30 rifle scopes with micron wide reticules, who can count the hairs of whatever target they are shooting and "rangefind" it at precisely 149m
to that extent the turret twiddling and mental masturbation serves a purpose.

those that travel light, sans laser rangefinder, use low mag x6-8 scopes, no bipods, stalk until the deer fills the scope but can accurately eyeball the difference between 100 and 125 yds, 175 and 200yds..... It serves no purpose.
whether you call it "zero" or not, maximising the effective point and shoot capability of a rifle still requires you know where it lands inside the ranges you expect to shoot at.
you still test it at those limits, or at least I do.

As has already been pointed out, when you point a 4a reticule at a "target" at 150yds with a x6, x7,or even x8 scope your reticule is covering a bigger margin than the MPBR you have allowed for.
It is designed for this purpose, so it shows up in poor light and gives you an instinctive aim point,


​it doesn't matter which camp you are in
 
I think as said most CF hunting rounds are very similar 100-200 yards. I have a .270 and was trying different rounds to see how they shoot. I found that 130gn SP 140gn SST and 150gn SP were all so close at 100 yards that i tried a little experiment. i took 2 of each round and put them in my pocket and pulled them out at random and shot a 6 shot group at 100 yards (shoot n c target) the second pic is a 6 shot group at 97 yards with 130gn SP
View attachment 32034 View attachment 32035
 
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