3d printing again...Tikka M590 Buttpad spacer

takbok said:

I picked up a rifle last weekend that's been at my very helpful RFD for way too long.

It's a bit short in the stock so took a photo of buttpad, imported it into 3d modelling software and traced it then made a 30mm spacer out of nice matte black PETG-CF. Very satisfying hour or so of work. I'm just waiting for longer No.10 woodscrews then I can put it into service.

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Demetrius said:

There's definitely a market for odd bits and pieces made using 3D printing. I recently bought two lens caps for a couple of vintage Japanese ultra-wide angle camera lenses.
These caps are vital for keeping the bulbous front elements free from damage, and are no longer available new as spares, so definitely a result.
They came from China.....the shipping cost more than the caps

D.

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takbok said:

I picked up a rifle last weekend that's been at my very helpful RFD for way too long.

It's a bit short in the stock so took a photo of buttpad, imported it into 3d modelling software and traced it then made a 30mm spacer out of nice matte black PETG-CF. Very satisfying hour or so of work. I'm just waiting for longer No.10 woodscrews then I can put it into service.

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Lateral said:

What about making it in TPU, spacer, and recoil pad in one ?

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takbok said:

It did cross my mind briefly. It would work well I think - Thick bottom layer for fasteners to clamp, thin walls and top with nice spongy infill?

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Lateral said:

You'd have to play with % infill (I'd suggest trying adaptive cubic) vs wall loops, & top & bottom layers.

I'd also have a small recess/countersink for a screw, and rather than have an overly thick bottom layer, add a 80-100% infill cylinder modifier around the screw holes. That will give you the support for the screws, and should save a lot of print time, and material.

I'd suggest 95A, which I find easy to print, once you work out the best way to feed it for your particular printer, and dial the in settings. I have a roll of 95A in Pink you can have cheap

If you have a printer with an AMS, you'll need to bypass it.


Mark

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takbok said:

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A better picture of the nice finish from my Creality Ender V3.

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Ronin said:

Instead of wood screws - threaded inserts set into the stock and button head hex fixings

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takbok said:

Quick extended rail mock-up:

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snake_2586 said:

I don't know how that will hold up under recoil

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takbok said:

Yeah just a quick check, I'll get the proper aluminium one made in the next couple weeks

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Lateral said:

Depending on the calibre, could you print it in PA6-CF, or GF, maybe PPS-CF ? and anneal it, or are you planning on making a bunch of them ?

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