Sako 75 vs 85 and 90

Shaun Goss

Well-Known Member
I’ve seen it said regularly that the 75 was the best sako built. Can anyone explain why and what then went downhill with the 85 etc

I’ve owned an 85 and whilst I liked it I had some problems when putting all 5 rounds in the mag and bolt cycling.
 
Ive had all three . Currently a sako 90 varmint chambered in the Mighty 22-250.

Sako 75 had a very nice stock ,the rifle were finished VERY well , the Bluing was second to none to mind , key lock on bolt which i personally thought it was a gimmicky

Sako 85 nothing really wrong with it , just a bland rifle. Stocks were very plain and just....Meh

Sako 90 to me is just a nice "sorted" rifle , love the adjustable trigger design , smooth bolt , faster lock time , to me at least . Like the built it piccatinny rail . Nice finish .

I will say for the money your paying i think its about time sako started putting adjustable Cheekpiece on rifles .

Of course all of the above was just my personal opinion .
 
My first rifle was a 75 in .243 and since then I have also owned a 75 in 25-06.

My current rifle (I’ve had it for over 10 years) is an 85……

All were wood/blue

Never owned a 90.


Between 75 and 85 I have not noticed the slightest difference in practical terms and my 85 has always performed faultlessly (including cycling from the mag).

My first 75 had an annoying habit of the action bolts loosening after a few shots and the action coming loose in the stock. It went back to the shop for a refund.
 
The 75 is seen as the best because it is a very clean, conventional action from a high quality manufacturer before things started getting “improved.” The action (valued at appx £400 alone second hand) is strong, smooth, good trigger, proper integral recoil lug, with scaled action sizes. This makes it a good donor for rebarrelling and restocking with bedding etc. It has optilock mount rails, which were great. It is simple and well engineered, slick with dual stack flush fit magazine.

I have an 85 and love it. Much better looking than the 75. It moved from the 75 with some advancement in the semi-controlled feed system. But this with the ejection path blocked with large optics cause damage to cases which makes it less attractive for reloading etc. The recoil lug isn’t integral. It has optilock mounts.

The 90 is again an evolution to fix some issues introduced with the 85 and refine others as the engineering capability and wider systems improve. It has better trigger, updated action, more modern stock options, improved scope mounting with integral picatinny. (Far superior to Optilock.) It also appears to have moved away from the 85-style semi-controlled feed arrangement, with twin plunger ejectors on a push feed. Personally the stock options are a red herring. Aftermarket stocks are so much superior.

If you are choosing one from the three to have they all have positives or negatives. Personally I would get one built from a donor 75 action, bedded onto a good stock. My pal’s second hand 75 was ~£500 and shoots bug hole groups.
 
I have a 75 A1 and its a really nice rifle with perfect proportions and styling. It's not perfect though. The bolt travel isn't as smooth as a Tikka. Also the ejector isn't great and I often end up with a case in the action which I have to madly shake out of the way for a follow up shot. (This is because I eject softly to catch my cases).

Sako 85's are very similar to the 75's just with a different bedding arrangement.

I've had a look at a new 90 finnlight and thought it was really lovely. The only possible downside for me is the interrupted picatinny mounts. If you can fit a scope properly then they're great. If you need more adjustment then it's not worth buying one IMO.
 
No one is mentioning the 85’s tendency to suffer bedding issues and in my case, random fliers. I completely lost confidence in it and moved to the S20 when it first came out. My .243 75 on the other hand I’ve had since 1995 and still love it - off to the range this morning with it to sight in 2 “new” scope solutions. I’ve never tried the 90 - I’d like to but it’s so much more expensive than the Tikka T3X Lites that I’ve bought 2 of in different calibres for the price of the 90 I was considering as my last rifle. Frankly, the Tikka just work well and IMHO are as good as the 75 in all respects bar the magazine.
 
No one is mentioning the 85’s tendency to suffer bedding issues and in my case, random fliers. I completely lost confidence in it and moved to the S20 when it first came out. My .243 75 on the other hand I’ve had since 1995 and still love it - off to the range this morning with it to sight in 2 “new” scope solutions. I’ve never tried the 90 - I’d like to but it’s so much more expensive than the Tikka T3X Lites that I’ve bought 2 of in different calibres for the price of the 90 I was considering as my last rifle. Frankly, the Tikka just work well and IMHO are as good as the 75 in all respects bar the magazine.

Couple of buddys of mine had the 85s at same time as me . Mine was fine and so was one of the others . But other lad did have a few issue's , out of all three of us he was the only one who didnt reload so he just put it down to not finding a bullet his rifle liked or just his **** shooting 😂

However looking back it could have well been the problem you described 👍👍
 
I’ve seen it said regularly that the 75 was the best sako built. Can anyone explain why and what then went downhill with the 85 etc

I’ve owned an 85 and whilst I liked it I had some problems when putting all 5 rounds in the mag and bolt cycling.
Key difference is the bedding.

75 has a deep recoil lug that is integral to the action.

The 85 (and I think the subsequent actions) have a strange hybrid affair. There is a little metal plate that is screwed into the action. That has a stud that slots into a recess in the action. It is not uncommon for this to cause erratic accuracy, because it needs everything to be aligned perfectly and no tension in the system. It becomes unstable if there’s any flex in the stock, or any of the 4 screws involved (2 action bolts and 2 recoil plate screws) aren’t perfectly torqued. Or if grit gets in between the plate and the action, or or or…

Bizarrely, the 85 action does have a slot machined into it so it can be used in thr same way as a Tikka T3. The T3 has also has a separate recoil lug, but this is more substantial and sits vertically in the stock, and can be easily bedded in place. A common cure for accuracy problems in the 85 is to throw away the little sandwich and install a T3 lug.

The other notable problem with an 85 is that it’s absurdly expensive, but provides no clear benefit over a T3 (and they use the same barrels).
 
The only bad thing on the 75 is the key locking , never needed and more chance of trouble at some stage. I really like my 75s , sorry to Tika fans but the Tikka doesn't come close. I had a Tikka 595 new and i have a new Tikka now but there is no way a Tikka of today matches the Tikka of the past like the 595 with a proper metal mag let alone a modern one wit all that plastic . None the less i added one to the safe , its certain accurate and the bole slides nice The Magazines are frankly "pants" Its a working rifle with a good barrel and a good trigger , not the sort of thing i will be putting another Barrel on in the future
 
Just picked up a 90 Finnlight in 22-250. First foray into Sako and .22 centerfires.

Fit and finish is very nice, action runs very smooth. Only had 15 factory shots through it as yet sighting in, and already shooting sub moa...

Trigger adjustment mechanism I really like and sako mags are simply fantastic 👌🏽 adjustable cheek riser is also a plus!
 
The only bad thing on the 75 is the key locking , never needed and more chance of trouble at some stage
I am fairly certain you can get the locking parts replaced with standard non-lockable parts. A friend of mine had it done years ago on his 75 Varmint. Finding the parts these days might be an issue though and I'd expect Sako/Beretta to try bleed you dry when you want to pay for the parts...
 
I've had a Vixen AI, and 85 Stainless Synthetic and a 90 Peak (over many years and with increasing affluence ).
Each generation has a number of stock variations available and, it seems, bedding variants too.

The AI is relatively primitive, for example needing a small screwdriver to adjust the trigger when out of the stock, extractor on the side of the bolt like the Mauser 98 and so on. It's only 2 lug. The magazine is a floor plate type and I prefer a detachable box mag, myself. The trigger pull is a lot different depending which direction you apply the traction. It's not possible to unload the rifle without taking the safety off.

The 85 was really good. Shot just under the 5 shot MOA guarantee, fed well (always possible to stuff it up if careless of course), and ejection depends on how hard you plu. the the bolt back. I never had trouble with it hitting the scope and dropping back. The stock was plastic, with nice rubber inserts but no palm swell, which made it very forgiving in terms of trigger hand positioning and it was easy to shoot. Trigger adjustment was easy with allen key and could be done through the magazine well without removing the stock. The trigger was great. After about 10 years it got a bit lighter and I had to increase the pull up to 1000g again. Pull didn't vary so much with direction. The stock was hollow, not sealed and filled up with water when used as a walking stick in rivers. on holding it horizontal again, water would run out through the action and magazine. I couldn't persuade Beretta that this was a design fault. The only annoying feature was that the ejector which runs in a slot in the bottom of the bolt would catch on rod guides when cleaning so a trick movement with a hidden spring loaded lever was needed to release the rod guide. Due the 3 lug design, there is quite a bit of leverage and although its always easy to open and cycle, some wear and galling happened on the cocking ramp. The bolt can be disassembled by hand and if your fingers are strong put back together. The safety has a button you can push to work the bolt and unload it without taking the safety off and making it live. This rifle is very weather and dirt proof, highly reliable and the design has no extra parts or frills (say compared to Mauser 98, Blaser R8 and almost any other action.

With the 90, there are several minor changes:
Trigger adjustable without removing mag and now in 5 steps - good.
Picatinny rail - marginally easier to use and intercompatible.
You don't have to get the carbon stock (which must be half the cost of the gun), nor even the adjustable Finnlight version. The wood stock 90 Hunter is a similar price to the old 85. Recoil is very well controlled. A 70 shot ammo test session with the 30-06 was just fine. The palm swell doesn't quite fit my hand. The smaller butt pad goes real nicely into my shoulder pocket and is easy to use.
Twin plunger ejectors now, which really fling the empty case away clear horizontally. I worry what would happen if they get grit into them.
The firing spring seems stronger and I definitely need the special tool to put it back together. The instructions include putting a little grease into the cocking ramp now. The bolt has several more complications in its design and seems a step away from the "less is more" philosophy of the 85.
Accuracy is good and after half a dozen shots it was doing 20mm@100m for 5 shots with Sako factory ammo. Zero was stable within 1cm over 160 shots. I fired at 5 deer and got 5 one shot kills (20 to 300m) so its very useable as a hunting rifle. The fluted barrel seems to work OK but I just have a feeling the first two or three shots are the best. It's nice to have factory threading so you don't need to worry whether the suppressor guy has done it right. It comes with a muzzle break but I haven't used it.
 
Last edited:
I always wondered about that. So it comes loose?

More economical to manufacture


75 is nice

85 also works well though some have issues with extraction usually associated with cases striking windage knob of scope

90 is progression of each design and having seen a couple- they are nice and smooth to cycle and load

Haven’t shot one but reports from professional end users is positive
 
love my .243 85, woods started off a bit bland but with a few sessions of walnut oil and general use it’s slowly colouring up nicely. Never had an issue with accuracy that wasn’t caused by me :lol:
 
All Push feed
All Hammer forged barrels
All available in blue/cro-moly or Stainless barrel/action

Actions
75 available in Action 1 to 5 (1=222/223 5=Magnums)
85/90 available in XS, S, M, SM (Short Magnum) and L

75/85 - available only as tapered dovetail proprietary mounting
90 available in tapered dovetail or integrated twin picatinny mount

Recoil Lug
75 - independant recoil lug, pinned to action with grub screw
85 - independent recoil lug, screwed or bonded into stock depending on material (lugs held with fixings prone to becoming loose and causing issues, bonded ones not an issue)
90 - as above

Bolt Shroud
75 - smooth/rounded bolt shroud - avaialable in key lock and non key lock
85/90 - fluted bolt shroud

Bolt
Three lug bolts
75 - enclosed bolt face
85/90 - open lower bolt face

Ejection
75 - mechanical direct ejection through bolt face ejector fork
85- as above but with a different angle and open bolt face - were prone to cases hitting large windage turretted, low mounted scopes and failing to clear port

Magazine
All double stack, top feeding
75 - single stage release
85/90 - two stage release (mag requires upward pressure to allow catch to be depressed

Trigger
Same trigger across range
Adjustable for release spring pressure
Also available in black bladed Set trigger
 
I do not own a 75, 85, or a 90. But a few years ago I wandered into a gunshop and looked over the new Sako rifles. They are nice rifles but overpriced for what they are.

The older Sakos were better rifles and I always look for them on the used market
 
Back
Top