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Thread: Zeroing a Drone Pro

  1. #1

    Zeroing a Drone Pro

    On Monday eve we helped another SD member sight in his new DP. Must say quite impressed with the new version quite different from the original. We bore sighted it down the garden at 20 yds and then went into the field. Got it on at 50 yds then out to hundred and took quite a few shots to get it near 1" high zero. Was shocked that 1 unit was moving the bullet placement 1".

    Surely it must be possible in an electronic digital device to have finer adjustment,1" at 100 yds is not really good enough.

    What have other DP users found and any comments?

    D

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Cyres View Post
    On Monday eve we helped another SD member sight in his new DP. Must say quite impressed with the new version quite different from the original. We bore sighted it down the garden at 20 yds and then went into the field. Got it on at 50 yds then out to hundred and took quite a few shots to get it near 1" high zero. Was shocked that 1 unit was moving the bullet placement 1".

    Surely it must be possible in an electronic digital device to have finer adjustment,1" at 100 yds is not really good enough.

    What have other DP users found and any comments?

    D
    The adjustment is one pixel of the display as far as I'm aware, for the original 5x/10x DP's each click was 2.5cm or 1.4cm respectively at 100m...... dunno what the new one comes out at though. The Photon XT 6.5 is 1.7cm at 100m. Kite's for example, had quite few variations so it's not a new problem.... mine's unusual with 19mm clicks but can be set half way between clicks.

    So until someone comes along with a higher resolution display (If there is such a thing) at a realistic price.......

    Cheers

    Fizz

  3. #3
    SD Regular bobjs's Avatar
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    I have an early drone pro 10x, and I have zerod it at 100 yards with no issues, I am very pleased with it and shooting rabbits out to and beyond 300 yards and my shooting buddy Steve on this forum is beating me by 3 yards, I have taken shots at 300 in daylight so I can only say that getting it as close to the best zero you can and then crack on, this is what we both have done, working with radios as a team when setting up/ zeroing helps, I used a low level tight bipod and a very heavy rear bag to help maintain the best point of aim as possible.

    I can't complain I got it second hand,had the software updated recalibrated and tested by Carl at NV gear UK (and I got the new reticle as well ) with first class service and support well passed anything I have had before,

    And my one will not be going anywhere soon,


    I wish you well and keep going, take your time when zeroing and then build up your confidance with it,

    Bob
    WARNING: LUPUS IS A KILLER, lets support them in the need to find out what it is, what causes it and how do we defeat it. Donating to LUPUS UK | LUPUS UK

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  4. #4
    Zeroed mine after bore sighting last week. All done within 10 shots and didn't notice the click value being so coarse. Perhaps I have a different unit but my manual lists the bore sight increment which I assume to be one click to be 1.2cm @ 100m. This seemed to fit in with my adjustment that I made

  5. #5
    This is a friends as new unit and it seemed to be moving it by at least 1"

    D

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by srvet View Post
    Zeroed mine after bore sighting last week. All done within 10 shots and didn't notice the click value being so coarse. Perhaps I have a different unit but my manual lists the bore sight increment which I assume to be one click to be 1.2cm @ 100m. This seemed to fit in with my adjustment that I made
    That's what I found about 12-13 mm per click, they suggest you "bore sight" it, something I've been doing for years, set your scope up, fire a shot, then securely clamp the rifle and move the cross hairs to the bullet hole. The barrel sent the bullet there, all you have to do is adjust the crosshairs to the point of impact. After that a few minor adjustments to where you want the crosshairs to be, I normally have them 1" high at a hundred yards. deerwarden

  7. #7
    i agree with that just somebody insisted using a sand bag I would clamp in a workmate or similar and do as you say.

    D

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Cyres View Post
    i agree with that just somebody insisted using a sand bag I would clamp in a workmate or similar and do as you say.

    D
    I do use a workmate with a sand bag to fire the shot at a precision target, then clamp the rifle and move/adjust the workmate to the centre/aim point of the target, then move the rectical to the bullet hole. The Drone manual is a bit confusing in their directions of how to do this, they keep mentioning up/down and left/right then down/up and right/left. Aim at the bull, clamp the rifle and adjust the crosshairs to the bullet hole, simples. deerwarden

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