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Thread: Ruger bedding job

  1. #1

    Ruger bedding job

    Finally got around to work on my friends Ruger 6.5x55.
    This rifle shoots hot and cold, I never managed better than 1.5" with
    Lapua megas. Bigger problem is that the point of impact varied day to day. (we'll give it a go, if it goes tits up, it's not mine )

    De oil stock.

    Mark the forend, I gave it 1.5mm, goal is to widen each side of the
    channel by 1.5 mm.

    Dremel out the channel

    Check gap, rather to much than too little

    One can clearly see where the stock hit the barrel.

    next is release agents

  2. #2
    Wax all parts that should not be glued or that should release.
    Sometimes better to rub down the whole outside of the stock, just incase one touches with epoxy fingers.

    Be absolutely sure all parts are covered by wax, I mostly cover like mad and then remove or rub off excess.

    Next up is paint PVA over the waxed areas, don't forget around tang area and all metal parts, Do the screws real well.

    next up epoxy

  3. #3
    I chose a resin with a 90 min pot-life, mixing ratio 100 : 25 and being a
    high quality resin ratios should be scaled quite accurately.
    I mixed 50g and 12.5g hardener I'd say 1/2 g either way would be ok. Found out afterwards half the ammount would have been enough.

    One part of the resin gets mixed with mostly 0.2mm ground glass-fibre and a bit of talcum to make it a bit smoother.

    Nice thing about fibres are they can be layed any way you want.
    I like laying a couple carbon rovings around the recoil lug to transfer recoil into the stock directly no flex.

    Got my selection of fibres close so I can grab what I need.

    One layer of the unidirectional carbon and a second layer half way up. This gives grear up down and left right stability.

    The trigger gaurd, and front drop plate assembly with screw are taped in place from the start so that the resin doesn't run out. In the next pic you see the layup of of a strip left, right and bottom of 30 deg carbon almost to the front. The font I changed to 30 deg glass which is sufficient.
    This 30 deg carbon increases the up-down-left-right stiffnes quite a bit but increases the torsion stiffness a lot. All this stiffness also helps prevent a stock moving to much when moisture content changes in the wood.

    Now with fibres in place the wet in wet bedding starts, the resin that we mixed with fillers now gets stuffed in the bedding area and tang area. Viscosity must me so that it doesn't run, bit but can be pushed around with a brush.

    In this case I also put some around the recoil lug and barrell area.
    Now barreled action must be carefully put into stock. Start with the tang area so the barrel doesn't touch the glassed area in the forend.
    start tightening screws, some of the resin will come pissing out.
    Check gap on forend keep tightening until all looks right. At least with the 90 min pot-life one is not forced to rush.

    Also the inside should be bubble free.
    Then comes a 24 hr prayer.[/img]

  4. #4
    Last two pictures didn't make it.
    inside bedding

  5. #5
    24hr later. Remove the screws, remove trigger gaurd and drop plate.
    Then with gentle pressure from the barrel seperate the two.
    Normally they seperate fairly stiff because the fit is 100%.
    Obviously one cannot have total control of where the resin gets pushed to.

    Now one must decide how far forward one wants to have the bedding running and relieve from there on to have a straight stop. With a dremel and sandpaper all overstanding fibres and rough areas can be cleaned up. Do not sand on the actual bedding area.

    Clean barrel with soap water to get the pva off.
    Test if action fits nicely and gap is good.

    I like a bit of a gap up front.

    After that is all ok one can either varnish the sanded areas of the stock or use epoxy to seal it up again.

    job done


  6. #6
    thank you edi
    much appreiciated , thank you for your time and effort to post it i hav learnt alot from this and also hav a stock to do as i had no clue whatso ever , so i bought a plastic stock instead but it looks like the wooden one is going back on
    many thanks

  7. #7

    good post

    this looks good, keep going. i have a ruger 77 mk2 that was a stutzen. i cut the stock down and floated the barrel and it shoots well now, but it has a very thin barrel and i might like to bed it at some point.


  8. #8
    Interesting post Edi, thanks for taking time to sharing your knowledge.

    Best rgds


  9. #9

  10. #10
    Very interesting.

    Can you use the same method on a slightly flexible synthetic ?

    I want to fill the voids with S/S rods and micro filler. I'm hoping to stiffen the foreend with out add masses of weight.

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