Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 48

Thread: 243 & 308, what would you do?

  1. #1

    243 & 308, what would you do?

    I have just got my variation back and am looking for two newset ups. A 243 for woodland which I will zero at 100yds, and a 308 zeroed at200yds for long range and larger Deer. For a while I have been looking at Tikkaand Saco; as I have stalked with both and enjoyed using them.

    I would appreciate your feedback, does anyone on here runtwo or three setups on different zero? If so did you end up using one favouritesetup?

    I would like to havehalf decent glass, but can’t afford to blow loads of cash so was thinking of spendingmore on the 308 set up with a better scope; and making the 243 woodland set uplight as possible?

    I want working tools, so am thinking stainless synthetic,and prefer illuminated reticules; so without going silly money wise what wouldyou recommend?


  2. #2
    I have a tikka T3 in .243 with a 6-24x50 shooting 85 grain Sierra GKs for roe, foxes and some long range stuff (also capable of fallow too) and a Sako 75 in 308 with a Zeiss 3-12x56 ASV shooting 150 grain SST for deer and also 168 grain match kings for target. So I've kinda gone the opposite to what you have suggested but it works well for me and what I shoot and enjoy doing.

  3. #3
    I am also thinking about a 243 as a close ultra light set-up. My thought was a 1.7-10x42 Meopta R2.
    For my 308's that I do use further out with 168gr I only use bdc scopes such a Zeiss Conquest 6.5-20x50, 6-24x56 Kahles K624i and a 3-12 S&B Zenith with precision hunter turrets. Due to our terrain head neck shots are often the only choice and a bit of extra mag is a bonus.
    edi

  4. #4
    If you want a working, reliable and accurate set up, you really can't go wrong with Tikka T3s.

    And I wouldn't bother with illuminated reticules on the scopes - you really gain very little from them, and pay a lot for it. Look for some second hand Schmidt and Benders. There are loads of 6X42s and 8X56s going for a song at the moment - and they really are all you'll need.

    As for zero: there is no real need to zero at different distances for the two set ups. Inside normal stalking ranges (out to 300 yards), the trajectories are similar enough that you really don't need to worry about it. Zero both an inch high at 100 and be done with it (this is where my .243, .308 and .270 are all zeroed, and I have yet to find a reason to change it).

  5. #5
    I have a Sako 75 in 243 and a Tika T3 308 both in stainless synthetic

    The Sako is a nicer gun in terms of look and feel but they both shoot extreemly well

    The T3 is anoying in so far as you cant open the bolt and push the round back into the mag for safe climbing of ladders and crossing ditches and the safety is a smidge more noisy on my 308. Strangly the Sako is much more fussy about rounds when it comes to ejecting them and the bolt is sloppy when open but in all other aspects a nicer rifel

    I have Swarovski 2.5 15 56 on both rifels and its the ideal all round scope but its a bit heavy

    For 200 yard shots the 15mag is very very nice

    On another rifel I have the much cheeper 2 X 12 X 50 Swarovski which is also excelent but I miss the 15 for those reely long shots

    If you want top quility on a budget get either of these without IR. I have IR on all of them and have never used it in anger

    Prior to the Swaros i had a 2 X 12 X 50 Zeis Duralite IR and for £600 (s/h) its a bargin. Its hard to justifie over double the price for the Swaro but i am a kit tart so I had to have them

    As a final aside.

    I have more faith in my abuility to hit what i am aiming at with my 243 than i do with the 308 so for long range (200max) I am more likley to take on the shot with the 243.

    I got the 308 for larger deer and because i was told by my betters there was less deflection issues with the 150+ g 308 in woodlands.

    I have great confidance in putting a 243 100g in a 4" circle at 200. SO the reduced knock down is less of an issue for me. The recoil on the 308 makes me grip the rifel just that fraction harder and I pull more long range shots with it as a result.

    That said my first shot with the 308 is often my best shot. I tense up for the second. So for a one shot kill its probably a bit of a muchness.

    Just me and my limits I supose but try it for yourself and see how you get on

    ATB

    Mark
    Last edited by Chasey; 28-10-2015 at 09:10.

  6. #6
    SD Regular
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    East Midlands M1/M69 Junction 21
    Posts
    5,388
    I can't see what a .243 will give you in woodland that the .308 won't do better. The concept of the .243 was as a long range varmint rifle that had a long range small and medium deer capability with 90 grain (where legal) and 100 grain bullets.

    At short range you will get meat damage that you won't get with a .30 "trundling" along at 2,400 fps with a 165 grain plus bullet. Personally I'd sort the .308 first, get good glass that is clear in shaded woodlands as well as in the open, and look at the .243 for something for next year or for foxing and small to medium deer "on the hill" or in the open. Think roe in Scotland.

    Personally I think that you've got a better option with the .308 for woodland AND the hill and the .243 for the hill (or open field) only with 100 grain bullets of small and medium deer. A .243 in woodland is not what it is best at.

  7. #7
    I have .243 and .308 SAKO 85's both are stainless synthetic. The .243 has a Swaro Z6i 5-30 on it and the .308 a S&B 5-18. They are both great rifles and this combination seems to cover virtually everything I need including some occasional days on the range where I have shot up to 800m.

  8. #8
    Just to through it out there.... Bin the .243 and just run a .308? that way you have more money to spend on glass?

    So a tikka t3 with swaro glass on top in .308, then maybe some money spare for swaro bins?

    WH
    “Go afield with a good attitude, with respect for the wildlife you hunt and for the forest and fields in which you walk. Immerse yourself in the outdoor experience. It will cleanse your soul and make you a better person.”
    –Fred Bear -

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by enfieldspares View Post
    I can't see what a .243 will give you in woodland that the .308 won't do better. The concept of the .243 was as a long range varmint rifle that had a long range small and medium deer capability with 90 grain (where legal) and 100 grain bullets.

    At short range you will get meat damage that you won't get with a .30 "trundling" along at 2,400 fps with a 165 grain plus bullet. Personally I'd sort the .308 first, get good glass that is clear in shaded woodlands as well as in the open, and look at the .243 for something for next year or for foxing and small to medium deer "on the hill" or in the open. Think roe in Scotland.

    Personally I think that you've got a better option with the .308 for woodland AND the hill and the .243 for the hill (or open field) only with 100 grain bullets of small and medium deer. A .243 in woodland is not what it is best at.
    I agree with this.

    I went through the same thought processes and plumped for the .308 on the basis that it has a wide range of load possibilities; that the heavier bullets are less likely to be deflected in woodland if striking vegetation; that it can be loaded plenty hot enough for longer range larger deer, and that ammo costs are reasonable. I also went with the T3 as possibly one of the best performance-per-pound rifles going, and one of the most accurate out of the box too. For Muntys, I have the .223 although still nowt wrong in loading a slow and heavy .308 round for them as meat damage unlikely to be as severe as a high velocity .243.

  10. #10
    Focus on the .308. Buy good glass for it. I've managed for a long time without an illuminated reticle. Become familiar with one set-up. Park the .243 for the time being.

    Regards JCS

Similar Threads

  1. For Sale Norma .243 & .308 once fired brass & .308 Federal
    By sussex stalker in forum Reloading
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 05-10-2015, 17:34
  2. 308 & 243
    By pow1 in forum Equipment & Accessories
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 19-09-2014, 11:49
  3. *SOLD* Dies .308 & .243
    By palmer_mike in forum Reloading
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 25-04-2014, 07:33
  4. Free 308 & 243 Brass
    By wabbituntr in forum Reloading
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 14-10-2013, 21:37
  5. Free .308 & .243 Cases
    By steyr.308 in forum Reloading
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 02-09-2011, 21:54

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •