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Thread: Red Deer Measurements for Rangefinding

  1. #1

    Red Deer Measurements for Rangefinding

    Hi All

    slightly random question but I am after approx. measurements of a red hind and stag (more usefully hind), for working out some range finding calcs with the reticle my scope. measurements that would help are length of ears from tip to base, tail to chest, shoulder to underside of flank etc. I haven't ever measured and won't see any more in the larder to measure for a while.

    I have realised how bad my rangefinding is particularly in the snow and over open hill, and want to try and work out how I can use my Duplex to deal with this.

    Alternatively sell me a cheap rangefinder!

    thanks for any help offered


  2. #2
    First of all, you need to have a duplex with an opening which corresponds to something meaningful, like 30 inches at 100 yards at 9x.
    Next, you need to set your scope on a power that is useful for hunting, and know what the horizontal gap is at that power.
    Deer size varies, so you need to learn to range off smaller, inanimate objects, like trees, rocks, road track widths, and fence posts.
    A reticle with finer graduations, like Mil Dot or G2, is going to be best.. or a monocular ($100 USD) or binoculars ( 7x50 marine $200 USD) with ranging stadia.

    But it is easy to train the eye to recognize ranges very well out to 200 or 300 yards.
    Practice ranging with your finger width, two fingers, etc - plenty of how-to in Scout and military manuals, and online.

    And the truth be known that, if you zero something like a .308 at 200 yards, you are only 2 inches high at 100 yards, making it very easy to not worry much on shots inside 225 yards, and all the hold under is at the easiest distance, 100 yards.

  3. #3
    I find ranging by size very tricky

    I shot a roe doe once that I was pretty confident was at around 150yds.
    turned out it was just shy of 200 and very big!

  4. #4
    Thanks both. As I have secured a Lisenfeld variable (Bewsher I recall you are a fan!) at a good price rather than going top end German / Hungarian I have some change for a rangefinder. I think that will be the solution following your comments.

    I find judging distance reasonably OK over good old southern English pasture, but highland I just cant get right. My shooting is much improved and as my comfortable range has extended(I don't mean ridiculous before I get heckled), so has the margin for rangefinding error.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by bewsher500 View Post
    I find ranging by size very tricky

    I shot a roe doe once that I was pretty confident was at around 150yds.
    turned out it was just shy of 200 and very big!
    This is why I try to use a something of less variable size, like a fence post or the width of a road track. If there are trees of about the same size, I stop and gauge one. Then, when I see the edge of a similar forest across a field or cut, I can use the scope to measure it, knowing it is close to 18 or 20 or 24 inches wide.

    My zero has less than 1 inch difference off the sight between 150 and 200 yards, so it is in the hold dead on zone.

    This is where iron sights are useful for ranging. One does not need to be as precise in battle, and I hope this offends no one: The M1 Garand, M14 and M16 have ears which are precisely about 20 inches inside at 250 yards. The battle zero is 250 yards, so you frame and hold dead on. If there is a little daylight, you hold on the head. If the target is half the sight, it is 500 yards, so you dial up the rear 10 clicks and hold dead on.

    In hunting, you can use the front sight blade to pretty closely measure a squirrel, rabbit or deer at the zero range of your rifle.

    For a cheap range-finder, buy a clear ruler and cut it down to 6 inches. Hold it at arm's length, and measure the target. Knowing the sight radius from your eye to the ruler, you can scale out and measure the range as close as you can shoot in the field.

  6. #6
    Some very good info passed on there.

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