Suggested cabinet locations?

Co1

Well-Known Member
I live in a wonderful modern house with walls made of cardboard and block work and there is nothing to be bolt the cabinet to. Just tried with 10mm rawl bolts and the thing can straight off the wall. The only concrete surface I have is the garage floor. It is integrated and alarmed but only has the normal locks that an up and over door has. What are my chances?

Any other more off the wall suggestions out there? Was thinking maybe chemical anchors and studding, but that ain't cheap.

Cheers
Col
 
Just had a look for chemical anchors on Amazon and they've come down a lot in price so maybe that is an option after all. Anyone tried it?
 
It depends on how much you use the garage door as you could fit internal bolts on the inside of the garage door.
As a fabricator/welder/son of builder, I would attack it in my way if the garage was the only option.
If it went on the floor then damp might raise an issue.

I will pm you my plan.

Tim.243
 
You could patress the wall spanning studs (600mm ish wide) and you should get a good fixing - use something like 18mm mdf that you can decorate and that'll also pack out the depth of your skirting. For the cabinet fix you can then use some decent hex head toggle fixings - push though cabinet, mdf and plasterboard and will pop open for a secure anchor :thumb:
 
In my last house I used Fischer chemical resin and some M10 threaded rod, the resin was less than 20 quid and was bomb proof. If you do go down this route, if you ever move and want to remove the studs after removing the cabinet, lock two nuts against each other on the rod and then you can unscrew the rod by putting a spanner on the innermost nut.
 
I applied for a variation and they went through everything with a fine tooth comb, checking all of the cabinets (3) all of the guns and rifles.
The door of the gun room admittedly is wood. It's got an alarm and a mortise lock if that's what it's called. All three cabinets had been inspected possibly four times before. Now they failed as they did not have four suitable bolts holding each in place. I suggested he tried to remove them from the wall. Did not matter. No bolts, no variation. He then said what most people just drilled four holes in the bottom and coach bolted them to the floor! Guidelines satisfied! What tosh.
Anyway, I got the builder to drill them all and use chemical resin to hold the bolts into the wall. Back came the man. Quick look. Very quick. OK. Variation will be processed.
Maybe a jobsworth but that was his attitude.
Be aware.
 
You could patress the wall spanning studs (600mm ish wide) and you should get a good fixing - use something like 18mm mdf that you can decorate and that'll also pack out the depth of your skirting. For the cabinet fix you can then use some decent hex head toggle fixings - push though cabinet, mdf and plasterboard and will pop open for a secure anchor :thumb:

I went for this sort of option in a new 'cardboard' type house and Police Scotland were fine with it.

The MDF sheet was cut to fill the gap behind two cabinets and extensively screwed to frame of house kit, then cabinets screwed to MDF, picking up the frame of the kit where I could. Multiple hex headed coach screws used in back and base of cabinets.

I'm not sure what 'the guidance' say, but I seem to remember it's something to do with 'fixing to fabric of building'.

To be honest if someone wants any cabinet they'll eventually get it. Mine are sited where they were a bitch to install and would be equally difficult to remove. If you can easily get at/around your cabinet the MDF option might not be acceptable.

hh
 
'Thunderbolts' work OK in block work (depending on be type of block) and are more straightforward than expanding bolts. Also you can glue the whole of the cabinet to the wall with Pink Grip or similar (in a silicon gun) which works very well and is surprisingly strong. Use in addition to bolts of course but would be remarkably sound usin pink grip only- useful added security.
 
Modern house - in a corner of a room that gets little traffic. 1" marine ply bonded to plaster with no more nails then screwed into the studs with mahoosive fixings. No more nails back of cabinet to marine ply. Bolt through marine ply back of cabinet and coach screws into floor joists.
Cuppa tea and a digestive, job done.
 
I guess you have plaster board walls have the walls got wood noggings [studs]?
if so get a 18mm sheet of ply and screw that to wooden studs with a good amount of screws then screw the cabinet to the ply
 
Line the walls and floor of a suitable location with 1" thick exterior ply glued and bolted through securely. Then glue and coach bolt cabinets to wall and floor. Worked for me!
 
I guess you have plaster board walls have the walls got wood noggings [studs]?
if so get a 18mm sheet of ply and screw that to wooden studs with a good amount of screws then screw the cabinet to the ply

That's what I had to do. Big sheet of 18mm mdf glued and screwed to the wall then bolted the cabinet to that.
The young police lad asked if it was secure then proceed to try and pull it off the wall!
Sticks like **** or pink grip is surprisingly strong. (Thankfully)

DL
 
I had a modern house and fortunately there was a loft conversion with a door to a storage room and I laid the cabinet down and fixed to the joists with coach bolts, FEO passed it.
 
You have to use the right fixings for the job, that is coach screws for timber and chemical anchors or rawlbolts for brick, masonry or concrete. If you do have brick or masonry or concrete, be sure to vac out the hole before fixing as dust will cause trouble. Allow for more fixings than required so if one does not work, no big deal.
 
8mm stud and chemical resin from screwfix you will not pull that out screwfix do a resin in a short tube that fits into a standard mastic gun. make sure you clean out the dust after drilling and don't drill right through the brick /block you need to drill all the holes first as you only have a few minutes before it sets also put the nuts and washers on the studding . put the resin in the hole and insert the stud straight away through the hole in the cabinet leave 30 mins then do up the nuts . job done
 
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