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Thread: Brass Snobbery

  1. #1

    Brass Snobbery

    Following on from the .270 into .25-06 thread (and not wishing to hijack it!) are we all a bit guilty of "brass snobbery"?

    I know we are all "told" that Scandinavian brass is head and shoulders (oooof..bad pun!) above the rest but is it really "that" much better?

    I hold my hands up here and admit I have spent fortunes on Lapua/Norma cases for .22-250, .243, 6.5 x55 , .30-06 and .300WM but have had excellent results with PPU in 6.5 x 55 and when chronying a .243 load , found the lowest SD was with good ol' cheap Federal cases.

    On the flip side I've had a few issues with near case head separation (over sizing cases!!) and the worst culprit....Yep....Lapua!!

    So do we get a little bit too snobbish about what brass we use?

    Just some musings....


  2. #2
    When I first started loading for the 6mm06AI I was splitting just about every neck on the Remmington brass I was using. Wasted lots of time going back to gunsmith, wobbling about head space issues, wasted lots of bullets and lots of powder trying to work up loads that didn't split necks.

    After a few months I was advised to change to different brass, so I went Norma (lots of mates shooting 130 grain Norma ammo in 270 so no cost to try it). Never had a single problem after that.

    I now stick with Norma, Lapua (6.5* 47 Lapua) and Nosler Custom (280AI). Will never buy cheap brass again. Waste of time and money.
    So much to learn and so little time left

  3. #3
    Yep, a lot of snobbery involved with brass.

    Saying that I mainly shoot Lapua, Norma or RWS brass but I also have some Winchester, PPU and some ex-mil Radway Green. Pretty satisfied with the results I obtain from all the different makes. As for longevity of brass the worst results I have ever had as regards number of reloads has actually been from one particular lot of Lapua .222 cases.

    Generally for consistency though I will admit that Lapua, Norma and RWS are almost certainly the best though I wouldn't be too upset if I had to resort to any of the other brands that I have mentioned for the type of shooting that I do.
    It's the calibre of the shooter that counts not the calibre of the rifle.

  4. #4
    Lapua brass for me too

  5. #5
    Whilst the make of brass is important, surely it is how shiny it is when you reload it that is critical? Dull, common brass should know it's place and remain 'below stairs', what?

  6. #6
    I use FC brass at the moment, it's onto its 10th reloading. Starting to get the odd split neck. Time for "new" brass, RWS this time. I get given it. No snobbery here.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by flipflop View Post
    Whilst the make of brass is important, surely it is how shiny it is when you reload it that is critical? Dull, common brass should know it's place and remain 'below stairs', what?

  8. #8
    Last year I got myself into quite a 'kerfuffle' (I'm being polite) in trying to develop loads for my .260. I made a determined attempt to blow myself up by using H414 and remain grateful to our members Laurie and Sinistral for advice and practical assistance in keeping 8 fingers and 2 thumbs intact.

    I tried too many variables including trying to make .260 cases from .243. I learned that there is definitely a difference between Lapua, Norma, RWS on one hand and the American brands on the other. Quite what that difference is I do not know. Lapua, Norma and RWS would not reform from .243 to .260 and fit my rifle, whilst all the American brands would. Despite lots of testing by Sinistral, we still do not fully understand why.

    In my rifle, the brand of brass used, whether reformed from .243 or original Lapua .260 factory cases, made little difference to the velocities and grouping. I tried several different brands over the chronograph. I concluded that for use on deer at normal ranges, the brass was not at all critical.

    Having said all that, I am currently using Lapua factory .260 cases, 45 grains of N160 and 120 grain Sierra Prohunter for 2,750 fps. Shoots well with 2x 160 yard Muntjac from a high seat last Saturday and another this morning.

    Like Ranger 22 I have had eight or nine loadings from Federal .243 brass, the end game of which is usually a split neck. Currently reloading Norma cases for the .243. I use Winchester cases for the .22Hornet, so quite diverse.

  9. #9
    I use Remington brass & have lost count of the number of times it's been reloaded...I'd have to count through my loading book to be certain. The cases get annealed every four reloadings and I only ever F/L size to fired case dimension.

    Of course my Remmy brass is titanium & Gold plated, so of course I'm snobby about it
    Blaser K95 Luxus Kipplaufbüchse .25-06Rem. Zeiss 8x56, 110gn Nosler Accubond = Game Over!

  10. #10
    Uncle Norm interesting that you should mention that the "lesser" brands are often better for reforming as a friend of mine has found exactly the same when forming .17 fireball cases from .223rem and 5.56mm. Some of the easiest that he has found for this purpose was one particular lot of RG while another lot with a different date stamp was quite different. The Lapua and Norma cases that he tried didn't work out too well.
    It's the calibre of the shooter that counts not the calibre of the rifle.

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