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Thread: The correct way to mount Optilocks

  1. #1

    The correct way to mount Optilocks

    First, remove the perfectly effective scope and cheap but effective mounts from your rifle.
    1. Source an excellent replacement scope and realise it's a different tube diameter
    2. Do the right thing by your Finnish rifle and decide on Optilock mounts
    3. Make a semi-calculated but ultimately wild stab in the dark at the right height for the rings for your replacement scope's different objective lense diameter
    4. Wonder momentarily at why Sako decided to saw a perfectly good mount in half and fasten the rings to the bases with a floating fit
    5. Work out a way to assemble the rig loosely to get crosshair alignment, eye relief and recoil lug placement correct before nipping it up
    6. Fail to work out a way to achieve the above
    7. Work out which bolts to apply Loctite to
    8. Undo everything you've just applied the above to because when you tightened the rear scope clamp it pulled the crosshairs to the right/left/right again/ left again (repeat ad infinitum)
    9. Get the clamps set right, then realise you need to undo the bases to Loctite the unnecessarily-sawn-in-half rings to prevent the effing scope leaping off the effing rifle
    10. Tighten up
    11. Peer through a scope picture that looks like a periscope on a rolling sea
    12. Sprinkle with vinegar, season with freshly ground black pepper and toss it in the bin as good for nothing (with apologies to Dr Johnson and none whatsoever to the vodka-soused lunatic who whiled away a Scandinavian winter deciding how much fun it would be allowing everyone to spend six months of darkness fitting a single telescopic sight)
    13. As long as the deer lean to the right, they don't stand a chance.

  2. #2
    That all sounds very frustrating, but I've had only positive Optilock experiences:
    I've got them on .223, .22-250, .270 and .308 Sakos, and a .243 Tikka. For a couple of those rifles I've got two scopes both in Optilocks, and they swap on and off with remarkable accuracy.
    Nor have I ever applied Loctite to any part of them.

    The joining of the rings to the separate bases (and I must say when possible I prefer the non-disconectable ringmounts) is not a challenge - just square them up by eye and tighten. I think if they are a bit off (and they can only be a tiny bit off without it showing, I think) the plastic rings should take care of it.

    The ring-height selection is a bit of an art, depending on the objective-diameter (plus Butler Creeks, if any), the barrel-profile and how far down the barrel the objective will end up.

    After that, it's always been pretty straightforward: You don't say whether you're fitting to Sako or Tikka, but from memory you just pop the base+lower-part-of-ring on the dovetails in the right position and tighten, pop the plastic things on the scope with the gap at three or nine o'clock and take it from there...

    Have you got a recoil pin sticking too far down, or something?

  3. #3
    And get a file to the Sako dovetail and rework it so it's parallel like on all the other rifles since scopes were invented.
    Then we would not feel the need to buy special inflatedly pricd mounts made with chewable headed screws.

  4. #4
    I'm with Dalua on this & share the same experiences, including scope swap-ability. No lock-tite & nothing has ever come loose. My complaints would be that the mounts are heavy & you can't get small scopes low enough.

  5. #5
    I've a good mind to tap my Sako so that I can screw on a nice lightweight DNZ mount or similar.

    I'm sure the optilocks have been a good money spinner for Sako. In fairness they are nice sturdy mounts - just a little overcomplicated.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by oager View Post
    First, remove the perfectly effective scope and cheap but effective mounts from your rifle.
    1. Source an excellent replacement scope and realise it's a different tube diameter
    2. Do the right thing by your Finnish rifle and decide on Optilock mounts
    3. Make a semi-calculated but ultimately wild stab in the dark at the right height for the rings for your replacement scope's different objective lense diameter
    4. Wonder momentarily at why Sako decided to saw a perfectly good mount in half and fasten the rings to the bases with a floating fit
    5. Work out a way to assemble the rig loosely to get crosshair alignment, eye relief and recoil lug placement correct before nipping it up
    6. Fail to work out a way to achieve the above
    7. Work out which bolts to apply Loctite to
    8. Undo everything you've just applied the above to because when you tightened the rear scope clamp it pulled the crosshairs to the right/left/right again/ left again (repeat ad infinitum)
    9. Get the clamps set right, then realise you need to undo the bases to Loctite the unnecessarily-sawn-in-half rings to prevent the effing scope leaping off the effing rifle
    10. Tighten up
    11. Peer through a scope picture that looks like a periscope on a rolling sea
    12. Sprinkle with vinegar, season with freshly ground black pepper and toss it in the bin as good for nothing (with apologies to Dr Johnson and none whatsoever to the vodka-soused lunatic who whiled away a Scandinavian winter deciding how much fun it would be allowing everyone to spend six months of darkness fitting a single telescopic sight)
    13. As long as the deer lean to the right, they don't stand a chance.
    Ha ha ha! Oh, I recognise this!

    I think that, with a few minor design tweaks, they COULD be superb. They are robust, and once installed properly, work really well - and allow you to swap scopes very easily. You really do get a return to zero within an inch or less after rmoeving and remounting.

    But oh my - the base to ring thing... Surely they could maching a stop into the ring that locks into a slot in the base that stops the bloody thing swivelling as you tighten!!

    And as for the screws - I've never come across more pathetic screws. Made of chocolate is too kind a description.

  7. #7
    I've used optilocks for years and never had any problems with them. Selecting the correct ring height is no more difficult than for any other type of mounts.
    I would like to see a better system for lining up the rings with the bases though.
    I never had to use lock-tite but a couple of my mates had to on the screw that attaches the ring to the base after they came loose.
    Another mate had a problem with them on two sako rifles. He has mods on both of them and the recoil was causing the mounts to slide backwards on the dovetails. He had to drill a hole in the action and fit a stop pin to fix it.
    The rifles were a 243 and a 6.5x55 so the recoil wouldn't of been excessive.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by palo View Post
    I've used optilocks for years and never had any problems with them. Selecting the correct ring height is no more difficult than for any other type of mounts.
    I would like to see a better system for lining up the rings with the bases though.
    I never had to use lock-tite but a couple of my mates had to on the screw that attaches the ring to the base after they came loose.
    Another mate had a problem with them on two sako rifles. He has mods on both of them and the recoil was causing the mounts to slide backwards on the dovetails. He had to drill a hole in the action and fit a stop pin to fix it.
    The rifles were a 243 and a 6.5x55 so the recoil wouldn't of been excessive.

    thats wierd
    the recoil forces the rifle backwards and the scope forward into the dovetail tightening them up if anything

    I agree they are very poorly designed though
    They need:
    a simple pin for the ring to locate on the base stopping rotation
    base to ring screw securing from above inside the lower ring to allow bases to stay on when adjusting or removing rings
    better quality screws all round
    a vertical retainer screw to allow the matched dovetails to centre naturally is the most obvious

  9. #9
    Surely the stop pin would prevent this happening?

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by oager View Post
    First, remove the perfectly effective scope and cheap but effective mounts from your rifle.
    1. Source an excellent replacement scope and realise it's a different tube diameter
    2. Do the right thing by your Finnish rifle and decide on Optilock mounts
    3. Make a semi-calculated but ultimately wild stab in the dark at the right height for the rings for your replacement scope's different objective lense diameter
    4. Wonder momentarily at why Sako decided to saw a perfectly good mount in half and fasten the rings to the bases with a floating fit
    5. Work out a way to assemble the rig loosely to get crosshair alignment, eye relief and recoil lug placement correct before nipping it up
    6. Fail to work out a way to achieve the above
    7. Work out which bolts to apply Loctite to
    8. Undo everything you've just applied the above to because when you tightened the rear scope clamp it pulled the crosshairs to the right/left/right again/ left again (repeat ad infinitum)
    9. Get the clamps set right, then realise you need to undo the bases to Loctite the unnecessarily-sawn-in-half rings to prevent the effing scope leaping off the effing rifle
    10. Tighten up
    11. Peer through a scope picture that looks like a periscope on a rolling sea
    12. Sprinkle with vinegar, season with freshly ground black pepper and toss it in the bin as good for nothing (with apologies to Dr Johnson and none whatsoever to the vodka-soused lunatic who whiled away a Scandinavian winter deciding how much fun it would be allowing everyone to spend six months of darkness fitting a single telescopic sight)
    13. As long as the deer lean to the right, they don't stand a chance.

    LOL - 100% correct, but then I tied Leopold mounts and they are worse!!

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