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Thread: Sling stud and fixing

  1. #1

    Sling stud and fixing

    Hi all,

    During my last outing the fore end stud that is used to mount the bipod on my T3 came out of the stock. Can anyone recommend a decent replacement and what type of glue or resin I should use to fix it in place?

    cheers.

  2. #2
    Use the machine screw and nut, not the wood screw.
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  3. #3
    It seem rifle manufacturers do not make there rifles for the must have Bi-Pod use that shooters in the UK nearly always have to fit. The fore stock studs are short and they cannot sope with the recoil stresses produced by Bi-Pod use. Uncle Mikes sells a Q/D Slicg stud that has a normal machine screw thread that comes with a ferrule. The ferrule is inlet in the stock from the barrel channel it has serations around it's diameter to help it grip into the stock material and the stud screws in from underneath.

    I was looking at a used BSA and there was an enlarged hole where the sling swivel should be. Seems the previous owner was a Bi-Pod user. The chap in the shop was sorting out the stud and ferrule to repair it when I walked in.

  4. #4
    I recently fitted a stud to the forend of my Steyr SSG. It had a plate inside with captive nut to tighten the machine threaded stud into. I got it from SGC at Warden Hill.
    This was a synthetic stock, of course. Perhaps yours is wood?
    Last edited by JTO; 01-05-2016 at 10:09.

  5. #5
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  6. #6
    this:
    preferably with a small washer as well, tighten up and line stud holes up then epoxy nut into place


  7. #7
    Thanks for the replies everyone. It is a synthetic stock JTO, so I'll go with the thread and captive nut. Bewsher500, can you recommend a good epoxy for the job?

    cheers,

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by u32dw View Post
    Thanks for the replies everyone. It is a synthetic stock JTO, so I'll go with the thread and captive nut. Bewsher500, can you recommend a good epoxy for the job?

    cheers,

    something with water and oil resistance
    I stopped using araldite but there are loads out there
    clean , dry and keyed surface is the important part

  9. #9
    I use the West Systems Epoxy Epoxy by the Leading Epoxy Manufacturer | WEST SYSTEM Epoxy - it is fully water proof and they have a whole range of fillers and bonding fibres which you can mix in. You can also add in powdered paint to colour it (powdered paint from an art shop). I have used it for bonding in studs that then hold the engine mounts for diesel engines, or for casting a tight fit for a propshaft which has a single cylinder diesel bouncing around on the other end. With the correct high density fillers its very tough and strong. You can, I think by kits that have a small amount of epoxy and fillers included.

    Devcon is pretty good as well as Araldite.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by u32dw View Post
    Thanks for the replies everyone. It is a synthetic stock JTO, so I'll go with the thread and captive nut. Bewsher500, can you recommend a good epoxy for the job?

    cheers,
    I can't find the exact gizmo on the SGC website(bought it in the shop), but the inside plate is approx 1" x .5" (in old money). I didn't use any glue!
    If the hole is worn, you would also need to use a washer on the outside, I would think. I can call in at Warden Hill this week to see it they still have any like mine.
    Last edited by JTO; 02-05-2016 at 16:46.

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