.357 case prep

Brimfire

Well-Known Member
I find it fascinating how the cases grow in length as you run them through the full length sizing die. Although I cannot get a bullet to drop through the mouth before full length sizing and some people say they never full length size their 357 brass, I am not worried too much about reduced case life by resizing.
Everyone is different and wondering the thoughts of differing views of people who reload straight walled cases.
 
I don't know anybody who doesn't full length resize .357 cases. I have never heard of anyone only trying to resize just the "neck" of a .357 case, in fact how would you determine what the neck is on a straight walled cartridge.
 
If you don't massively crimp straight wall cases I find that they don't massively grow either...but they do still grow "some". But see below.

As, that being said, I do trim straight wall cases every now and again. Lead bullets seemed to make cases grow more than jacketed bullets and Lead Hollow Base Wadcutter the most of all.

And I've found that, back in the day, .44 Magnum, .455 Webley all seemed to grow more that anything in nominal .36" calibre (.38 Special/.357 Magnum/9mm Parabellum). In fact I can't recall ever the need to trim 9mm Parabellum.
 
During my years of pistol shooting i fired approx 65,000 rounds of fullbore ammo, .357mag .44mag, 10mm Auto, 45 ACP and 38 super with my 357 revolver being my favourite, each and everyone was full length sized and all were full power loads, case length was critical for the 10mm, 45 and 38 super as the cartridges headspaced on the case mouth, the rimmed cases were trimmed to accommodate consistent crimping.
When the cases started to split the whole batch were dumped and a new batch purchased.

Ian.
 
I've just read WB's reply. What I had forgotten...but he stirred me into remembering...is that the bullet weight was also an important factor in making a case grow. The lighter bullets inn whatever calibre having less effect than the heavier bullets in the same calibre.
 
Strangely I've shot thousands of 44 magnum from my various underlever rifles over the last 5 years using Starline cases, I'd estimate the cases have been used well over 50 times each and I've never had one that has needed trimming to length! (and yes, I do check them every time I reload them!).
 
When I shot 200 M handgun silhouette competition I trimmed cases. My goal was to have each case with a uniform roll crimp. My loads were very accurate from revolvers (.44 and .357) and my sights seemed to be the only limitation to accuracy for the targets in question, even at the 175 and 200M. Because I limited my shots hunting to 75 yards or so with a handgun, I did not trim hunting loads to a uniform length at every reloading. ~Muir
 
Strangely I've shot thousands of 44 magnum from my various underlever rifles over the last 5 years using Starline cases, I'd estimate the cases have been used well over 50 times each and I've never had one that has needed trimming to length! (and yes, I do check them every time I reload them!).

I'm finding that with .357 they never get long enough to need trimming although I will trim them for uniformity.

I don't know anybody who doesn't full length resize .357 cases. I have never heard of anyone only trying to resize just the "neck" of a .357 case, in fact how would you determine what the neck is on a straight walled cartridge.

Correct me if I am wrong; Full length sizing isn't detrimental to the accuracy of the round then. If it was, then nobody would bother to full length size the brass.
 
With .357 it's the case belling that is causing the majority of the wear and tear on the case rather than the re-sizing.
 
Always F/L sized my straight walled cases, my .38 spec and my .32 S&W Long competition brass was trimmed for uniform length when new and although checked, they rarely needed trimming again.

.38 Spec shooting 148gn HBWC with a hint of roll crimp and the .32 S&W Longs with 98 gn full wadcutters set right inside the case with a little taper crimp.

My .357 rounds for my Winchester 94AE never get trimmed but always F/L sized (and a thumbs up for carbide dies here :))
 
I am shooting gallery rifle at 25 meters. Specifically, a Winchester model 94 in .357. To comply with the range limits, I must either use .38 special or reload my own .357 so I achieve slower velocities. I am relatively new to reloading, having only reloaded about 500 rounds. The new brass I went right on to load. The once fired brass I dry tumbled in corn media and put through my RCBS carbide dies (three die set). I did not chamfer, debur, trim. I have not noticed any loss of accuracy (by the way, 4.5 grains of Unique behind a 158 grain semi truncated round nose works a treat for what I need), pressure issues or deterioration of the case. Despite all that, should I start doing more, as some people in this thread say? Genuine question, I am not questioning your practices. Just trying to learn.
 
At the very least make sure they are trimmed to length, a simple Lee case length gauge and cutter with a drill will do the job accurately, add one of their basic chamfer/de-burr tools and you're set to go (well add a primer pocket cleaner as well for the full set!).

Kranks stock Lee stuff with £4 shipping on most orders.

LEE Case Conditioning Combo [90950] - 10.50 : Henry Krank, Everything for shooters and collectors

LEE CASE LENGTH GUAGE SHELL HOLDER 38 SPECIAL [90157] - 4.20 : Henry Krank, Everything for shooters and collectors

LEE CASE LENGTH GUAGE SHELL HOLDER 357 MAG [90158] - 4.20 : Henry Krank, Everything for shooters and collectors
 
I am shooting gallery rifle at 25 meters. Specifically, a Winchester model 94 in .357. To comply with the range limits, I must either use .38 special or reload my own .357 so I achieve slower velocities. I am relatively new to reloading, having only reloaded about 500 rounds. The new brass I went right on to load. The once fired brass I dry tumbled in corn media and put through my RCBS carbide dies (three die set). I did not chamfer, debur, trim. I have not noticed any loss of accuracy (by the way, 4.5 grains of Unique behind a 158 grain semi truncated round nose works a treat for what I need), pressure issues or deterioration of the case. Despite all that, should I start doing more, as some people in this thread say? Genuine question, I am not questioning your practices. Just trying to learn.

What velocity are you getting with unique? I tried some True Blue with lead bullets and although it is under the range certificate, felt it was a little too quick at 1490fps with 8.8grns powder, so I got some ppu FPJ 158grn to shoot at longer range at work a load up with True Blue. Got hold of some bullseye to try with the lead bullets which I haven't shot as of yet.

On the Lee die set that I have, it says in the instructions that you don't necessarily need to trim them to uniform length because the crimp die will crimp in the right place.... or words to that effect.
 
What velocity are you getting with unique? I tried some True Blue with lead bullets and although it is under the range certificate, felt it was a little too quick at 1490fps with 8.8grns powder, so I got some ppu FPJ 158grn to shoot at longer range at work a load up with True Blue. Got hold of some bullseye to try with the lead bullets which I haven't shot as of yet.

On the Lee die set that I have, it says in the instructions that you don't necessarily need to trim them to uniform length because the crimp die will crimp in the right place.... or words to that effect.


4.5 grains gives me just under 900fps. Perfect...
 
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