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Thread: Help please with Squirell feeder

  1. #1

    Help please with Squirell feeder

    Hi all

    One of my permisions has a big problem with squerell dammage and they want it braught under control. I tried walking it with a 22 but lots of hours were not productive enough.

    So I am planning two feeder stations to bring them into a shootable position.

    My thaughts were, a 6" soil pipe with a screw cap top screwed to a board at the base with notches in the pipe to allow grain to trickle out and feed on the board which will be the kill zone


    Q1 I have access to corn, is that the best bait or is it at least acceptable?


    Q2: how big should I make the notches so they feed and dont clog


    Q3 Is there anything else I need to consider?


    Thanks in advance


    Mark

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Chasey; 01-07-2016 at 06:07.

  2. #2
    A normal pheasant feeder normally attracts them! Might be less fun but have you considered trapping them?

  3. #3
    Use a pheasant feeder or bird feeder,both seem to be squirel magnets around here!

  4. #4
    Any bait station with consistent supply of food will attract them. Whole maize and peanuts are good I find. Shooting is great sport but to reduce numbers properly you need a good trapping regime. Live cage traps are great if you cant visit every day as you can pre bait them and leave them open, unset and unattended. Then set them for a couple of days when you're able to check them. Multi catch traps particularly effective.

  5. #5
    I made my own from spare decking planks. A big hopper (bigger the better so there's less distubance going to the feeder to re stock).
    It looks like your design will work, just a couple of things you may not have considered,
    - Hanging them allows them to swing / swivel aka a moving target, Ive tended to fix mine on a post above badger height.
    - Use the features to create visible pathways into the feeder, walls, fences, fallen trees / logs are all good routes they will naturally use before crossing open ground. This means you can watch them come into to feed, when they're checking the area and other squirrels. It can help you to time shots to minimise disturbance, when there are multiple squirrels using the feeder. If its on a tree you can have them coming to the feeder and not stopping before hiding on the otherside of the tree!
    -Put a tunnel leading up to the feed (about the length of an adult squirrel & 3-4" square), with a small sitting area at the entrance of the tunnel. This reduces the amount of bait lst to birds and causes the squirrels to pause before going in and once happy on the feeder they'll just sit at the entrance to feed (which is great if it's in profile from your position).
    - Put some kind of retaining wall round where the feed comes out, this means that the feed will form a little pile and not just end up on the ground.

    The size of the hole depends on your bait of choice, I use whole monkey nuts (peanuts in the shell) and had a hole 3" high and the width of the board (5 1/2"), with a 1" high wall about 3" away from opening.


    Trapping is the least time consuming way of getting numbers down in a single wood, but shooting is more enjoyable. Dont neglect your field craft and get used to being still / quiet for long peiods, their as sharp as crows in my experience.

    Good luck

  6. #6
    You can soon forget about shooting them, once this piece of kit is approved (currently under review by Defra, I believe) for UK use it will kill some 20 Grey Squirrels cleanly without requiring any poison, maintenance or daily visits, before being re-charged.
    The ideal solution to the massive Grey Squirrel problem I would say...
    Goodnature: Rat Stoat
    • Do not be seduced by the marketing-men....

  7. #7
    wow that looks good. In this case you need to be trapping them. in the winter a big push on drey poking will then help reduce the breeding population. In forestry I have seen specific squirrel feeders which use whole maize bait coated in anticoagulant poison.

    D

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Erik Hamburger View Post
    You can soon forget about shooting them, once this piece of kit is approved (currently under review by Defra, I believe) for UK use it will kill some 20 Grey Squirrels cleanly without requiring any poison, maintenance or daily visits, before being re-charged.
    The ideal solution to the massive Grey Squirrel problem I would say...
    Goodnature: Rat Stoat
    Great solution that!

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Chasey View Post
    Hi all

    One of my permisions has a big problem with squerell dammage and they want it braught under control. I tried walking it with a 22 but lots of hours were not productive enough.

    So I am planning two feeder stations to bring them into a shootable position.

    My thaughts were, a 6" soil pipe with a screw cap top screwed to a board at the base with notches in the pipe to allow grain to trickle out and feed on the board which will be the kill zone


    Q1 I have access to corn, is that the best bait or is it at least acceptable?


    Q2: how big should I make the notches so they feed and dont clog


    Q3 Is there anything else I need to consider?


    Thanks in advance


    Mark

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	feeder.jpg 
Views:	26 
Size:	12.8 KB 
ID:	71725
    If it's made from plastic then this is irrelivant as they will chew any holes big enough so they can climb through and sit on the pile of bait. Every feeder I've made (apart from one from an old galvanised dustbin) squirrels have chewed their way into them.

  10. #10
    squirrels will chew anything plastic.
    they will always raid pheasant feeders which you could use
    with wheat.
    or a peanut feeder, they are very partial to peanuts.
    it depends on the time of year and available natural food.
    You could just put a pile of wheat under suitable trees
    which you can approach to a vantage point.
    this is a shooting approach which will reduce numbers and provide sport
    but not come anywhere near eliminating em. for this you need
    a proper trapping system either live traps or tunnel traps.
    (I dont like using poisons.)


    if using wheat the notches need to be as wide as the wheat
    grains are long. but needs to be metal.

    The rat stoat........now I have to look at that
    its an ideal fox baiter.
    Last edited by badbob; 01-07-2016 at 12:13.

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