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Thread: Fitting Apel/Mannlicher Rings

  1. #1

    Fitting Apel/Mannlicher Rings

    Anyone got any tips on how to fit a set of rings to a scope when the rings aren't half and half in split, if that makes sense? Apel and Mannlicher swing off rings for example have the top part of the rings coming past the halfway point of the circumference of the scope so almost have to be forced down over the tube. The potential from previous experience is to scratch the scope so any tips on how to get them tom prise open a wee bit to avoid this? The steel the rings are made from is too strong to do this to any degree with fingers alone...

  2. #2
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    Perhaps a very thin plastic strip about 4 inches long placed either side of the mount over the scope at the point where the mount will catch the scope..... push the mount down over the scope and the pull the plastic strip out in a downward direction..... it's should come out as the tension will now be less. An old fac sleeve or similar thickness will do.

    Just a thought.... because prising the mounts may damage them?

  3. #3
    They are fundamentally flawed for this reason mate, never understood how they became popular, I have seen loads of scopes badly marked by them. When scopes used to have deep gloss finishes it wasn't so bad but with modern matt finish alloy tubes they only have to be in the same room and they are marked!

    The only trick I have seen that worked was to use a couple of pieces of 35mm film as protection/guide which you can then slip out. Next question is where you find 35mm film these days!

  4. #4
    SD Regular
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    My initial thought was the film..... but not everyone has some lying around..... hence the fac plastic sleeve!
    Alternatively a couple of strips of electrical tape at the point where the mounts will rub.... once fitted the scope can be slid forward or backwards or just spun round in the top month alone and the tape removed.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Glyn 1 View Post
    They are fundamentally flawed for this reason mate, never understood how they became popular, I have seen loads of scopes badly marked by them. When scopes used to have deep gloss finishes it wasn't so bad but with modern matt finish alloy tubes they only have to be in the same room and they are marked!

    The only trick I have seen that worked was to use a couple of pieces of 35mm film as protection/guide which you can then slip out. Next question is where you find 35mm film these days!
    They are flawed Glyn but came with a wee .222 I bought from a friend. Think I'll replace them with a set from Allan Rhone....

    I tried the electrical tape but it bunches up under the force of the rings pushing down on it....

  6. #6
    Have always used adhesive label backing, never marked a scope.
    Only reason scopes get damaged are by users who are careless fitting them.
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  7. #7
    Not sure if this is good or bad idea , I use two Allen keys and put the short leg of the L into one of the screw holes, the other key intothe diagonally opposite screw hole . Gently prise the long end together and you will find you make just enough room to slip the tube in . Repeat this process to remove .
    Reason: I gave a new S&b zenith to the shop where I bought my nice new Sauer only to see him force on the 2nd ring unassisted and mark the tube. aaagh!!
    I think these apels are far to complex and heavy , I have locked down the swing off on mine and after a lot of grieve it is performing well .
    Apel had some data sheets to download on their web page which might help. If I was going again I would go for fixed Talley rings and bases.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by huntsman View Post
    Not sure if this is good or bad idea , I use two Allen keys and put the short leg of the L into one of the screw holes, the other key intothe diagonally opposite screw hole . Gently prise the long end together and you will find you make just enough room to slip the tube in . Repeat this process to remove .
    Reason: I gave a new S&b zenith to the shop where I bought my nice new Sauer only to see him force on the 2nd ring unassisted and mark the tube. aaagh!!
    I think these apels are far to complex and heavy , I have locked down the swing off on mine and after a lot of grieve it is performing well .
    Apel had some data sheets to download on their web page which might help. If I was going again I would go for fixed Talley rings and bases.
    Now it was something like you describe that was mentioned to me by my mate I got the rifle from but couldn't remember exactly what he'd suggested and couldn't get a hold of him yesterday. It's a wee .222 Mannlicher I got for woodland roe and allowing guests to use and it came with the original Mannlicher swing off mounts, similar to the Apel style. I'll give some of the suggestions a go as it would be a shame to have to ditch them and buy more just for fear of scratching a scope...

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by huntsman View Post
    Not sure if this is good or bad idea , I use two Allen keys and put the short leg of the L into one of the screw holes, the other key intothe diagonally opposite screw hole . Gently prise the long end together and you will find you make just enough room to slip the tube in . Repeat this process to remove .
    Reason: I gave a new S&b zenith to the shop where I bought my nice new Sauer only to see him force on the 2nd ring unassisted and mark the tube. aaagh!!
    I think these apels are far to complex and heavy , I have locked down the swing off on mine and after a lot of grieve it is performing well .
    Apel had some data sheets to download on their web page which might help. If I was going again I would go for fixed Talley rings and bases.
    Worked a treat!!!! Thanks.

  10. #10
    No problem, always happy to pop across to the Scottish borders for some free outings as part payment!

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