rifle stock

With a wooden plug or dowel, but first drill the hole to get it parallel, no good forcing a piece of dowel into a tapered screw hole as you may well end up splitting the stock.
Or the quick and dirty fix would be saw dust of about the right colour mixed with glue, just fill and sand.

Neil. :)
 
If they are just stripped then have you considered using the machine screw and ferrule type. the ferrule is inletted into the barrel channel and the machine screw stud screwed in for the outside as normal. They are sturdy and it does not notice that this is a repair from the outside. Bi-pods have a lot to answer for.
 
whoever had the rifle before me drilled 2 holes in the front and 2 holes in the back so i need to fill 2 holes
 
Ahhh you didn't say that as I rather daftly assumed it was the normal pulled front stud problem which is sooooooooooooooooooooo common since the popularity of Bi-Pods.

If the holes are fairly close together then i would seriously think about inlettign a piece of wood or something else like Horn to cover both holes. I had a recess to fill on an old P-14 butt and used a piece of horn:-

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It polished up well and that's only a piece of cows horn. Buffalo horn is better I assume but didn't have any. yes the piece of Horn has a flaw in it that was not noticable until it was filed, sanded down then polished :rolleyes: The stock has to be re-finished at some point so it should look even better once the whole thing is done. I have a stock tip to make first though.
 
Kev, I think you are probably up to doing marquetry repairs on cabinetmaking jobs!:)

Now your really taking the Michael :-|.

I completely messed the fore tip up and it's going to be hard work now to make it right....................... oh well. Meanwhile the butt plate/pad is causing some hassles due to the butt shape finding one. Soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo I brought a piece of virgin African buffalo horn off e-bay and am going to make a polished black Buffalo horn butt plate with a bit of chequering cut into the face. the chequering is going to be the difficult bit methinks. The plate will be about 5/16" thick and hopefully the chequering will help stop any slipping. The old Hammer guns used to have horn butt plates as does the 1950's vintage Browning Auto Five that I have so it was common practice at one time to use horn butt plates and it should be in keeping with the rifles style.
 
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