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Thread: Zeroing problem

  1. #1

    Zeroing problem

    I try to zero an Optisan Viper 4-16x50 on my 243 . I use mounts similar to the Leupold high mounts , = 12 mm from the the top of the Warne base to the below side of the ring.
    Started shooting at 25m at a cardboard from 60x60 cm ( 24x24 " ) . I am still about 8" high and ran out of adjustments. Never had this with any European scope.
    Shimming seems the answer, but how to do it and what to use ?

  2. #2
    film negative if poss,or coke tincut a strip and place under front mount in this case,or even better get a set of lows or medium.
    DONT START

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Hales Smut View Post
    I try to zero an Optisan Viper 4-16x50 on my 243 . I use mounts similar to the Leupold high mounts , = 12 mm from the the top of the Warne base to the below side of the ring.
    Started shooting at 25m at a cardboard from 60x60 cm ( 24x24 " ) . I am still about 8" high and ran out of adjustments. Never had this with any European scope.
    Shimming seems the answer, but how to do it and what to use ?
    I've got a Scope the same as. It's been on .25-06 to.17HMR to .300Win-Mag and now back on the .17HMR and I've never experienced the problem you have. A right pain i know but wind BOTH turrets in without over winding then wind both fully out but County turns. Divide the number by half then wind both turrets in by the half number and and now you will have the Cross Hairs fully centred.
    Thankfully following that advice sorted a similar problem to yours. I personally know a few people do this to any new scope they mount

  4. #4
    Hales
    It sounds like you have a bad scope ( poor manufacturing, bent tube or broken inside) or the rings are wrong for your rifle or badly fitted. (Rear ring could be set too high on the receiver to give your symptoms if it is too high by not being fully seated on the action).
    Check the mount fitting/seating & maybe try a "European scope" or another proven scope if you have one available.

    Ian

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by stalkerboydy View Post
    I've got a Scope the same as. It's been on .25-06 to.17HMR to .300Win-Mag and now back on the .17HMR and I've never experienced the problem you have. A right pain i know but wind BOTH turrets in without over winding then wind both fully out but County turns. Divide the number by half then wind both turrets in by the half number and and now you will have the Cross Hairs fully centred.
    Thankfully following that advice sorted a similar problem to yours. I personally know a few people do this to any new scope they mount
    Did this already. Windage is fine, so I didn't count these clickcs. Elevation has 648 clicks. ( 13x48) + 24. Did put it to centre this evening and put the Zero notch at this point. Will write down the adjustments that I make in the future. 1/8" per click at 100m .
    It's hard to change scopes. My other scope is a Kahles 6x42 with 26 mm tube. Never even considered running out of adjustments. Have used the Kahles and a Swarovski 1.5-6x42 and always plenty of adjustment.
    Want to use this scope for a particular purpose for wich they say they are better than European scopes.
    My Kahles was on this rifle with Norlyx low mounts ( 4 mm) . Fitted well but to low for being comfortable. I am using a PSE stock and they seem to be made for bigger modern scopes. A 42mm scope in low mounts is to low on a PSE stock and my Rem 700.
    Thanks for the info.

  6. #6
    try medium if all else fails,i read somewhere that even the windage can alter the vertical if the windage is allready over adjusted, not sure on that but sounds to me like those rings are way to high,imho
    DONT START

  7. #7
    First I would recalibrate the scope count the number of clicks from high to low then half to recalibrate then try zero zeroing again

  8. #8
    I've just set a scope up with a similar problem for a shooting buddy this afternoon in between mending high seats, I reset the scope setting back to mid way on both elevation and windage, when done I used a collimator bore sight to get a measure of either drop or elevation required and installed a shim ( in this instance on the rear mount) to fit to bring the reticule into line, it's a little fiddly, but this afternoon the rifle shot clover leaf in the bull at a 100 yds - job done.

    Good luck

    phil

  9. #9
    Your haven't got the front mount on the rear do You?

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Cawdor118 View Post
    Your haven't got the front mount on the rear do You?
    Doesn't seem to be any diffrence. But changed them yesterday to be sure. After removing the mounts , changing them from rear to front and mounting again there was only a diffence from about 1" in windage.
    So pretty good return to zero, for fixed mounts.

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