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Thread: Reloading brass.

  1. #1

    Reloading brass.

    I am going to begin reloading .308 for my steyr scout. I have a variety of used brass. Remington,winchester,geco,sako,federal,original factory ammo all fired only once. Has any one experience of reloading the aforementioned brass, if so could you advise on the preferred one, if any. I know it is subjective, but any handy tips would be useful and help keep cost down experimenting. Thankyou. Ed.

  2. #2
    In the Scout and subsequent shorter range, any of the brass will do.
    1000 yds and F class might mean being a bit more fussy.
    Last edited by dodgyrog; 07-08-2010 at 19:35. Reason: Spelling

  3. #3
    Eddie, any brass will do but not mixed. The important thing is to do is to sort brass by maker and if possible, LOT number. Never mix brands of brass while reloading as they are likely to have different case capacities resulting in different pressures and (if not a safety hazard) a resulting inconsistency on paper.~Muir

  4. #4
    thankyou

  5. #5
    All of the above excellent advice - plus:-
    Sako:- I've found to be reliable and tends to be heavier than some other brands thus a little less capacity, it uses less powder for same results you'd expect from other cases.
    Winchester - medium weight case - reliable and tough - usualy excellent.
    Feds are usualy fine. I had a batch which were chrome plated - really excellent, easily cleaned and easy to reload-with - also easy to find after extraction - but not in snow.

    The last opinion to follow is given on the understanding that you are NOT exceeding the recommended powder weights - and remember that occasional rifles, especially those with a tight chamber, do not always perform at their best with the maximum loads given in the manuals, both in accuracy or extraction.
    Some case brands will not extract easily from SOME chambers. If you come across that - dump the lot as they will give nothing but potential grief. It might be just a bad batch - or your rifle chamber is a bit fussy. More likely the first option so don't worry but use other brands and see.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by ecoman View Post
    All of the above excellent advice - plus:-
    Sako:- I've found to be reliable and tends to be heavier than some other brands thus a little less capacity, it uses less powder for same results you'd expect from other cases.
    Winchester - medium weight case - reliable and tough - usualy excellent.
    Feds are usualy fine. I had a batch which were chrome plated - really excellent, easily cleaned and easy to reload-with - also easy to find after extraction - but not in snow.

    The last opinion to follow is given on the understanding that you are NOT exceeding the recommended powder weights - and remember that occasional rifles, especially those with a tight chamber, do not always perform at their best with the maximum loads given in the manuals, both in accuracy or extraction.
    Some case brands will not extract easily from SOME chambers. If you come across that - dump the lot as they will give nothing but potential grief. It might be just a bad batch - or your rifle chamber is a bit fussy. More likely the first option so don't worry but use other brands and see.
    Example, I have some Remington Peters brass in 7mm WSM, extractor claw disengages on 9 out of ten, where the Winchester stuff is faultless.
    (The Unspeakable In Pursuit Of The Uneatable.) " If I can help, I will help!." Former S.A.C.S. member!

  7. #7
    Do you think that this is because the case rims are not so well defined - or because they are soft and the brass pulls around the extractor claw ?. I would be interested - not that it might affect me because I have no Rem. cases or ammo - to know if their factory rounds would behave like that on extraction - a precautionary warning for other users maybe.
    Opinions often differ according to unknown circumstances.

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