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Thread: Dont Give up! - Sako 591

  1. #1
    Distinguished Member Ronin's Avatar
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    Dont Give up! - Sako 591

    A friend asked me to do an annual check on his rifle including a "deep clean" and accuracy check, he mentioned that he thought the rifle wasnt as accurate as it was and had lost confidence in it.

    The rifle is a Sako 591 in 308 and has a 4x32 Swarowski attached.


    After removing 12 months of detritis from the action, bolt and bore I borescoped it and found pitting along the entire bore.

    I used Wipe out cleaning products to remove carbon and copper fouling leaving the bore squeaky (but pitted) clean and went to the range using supplied ammo (fed Fusion) to do some accuracy checks.

    The results were not good - circa 4 inch "grouping" - have to point out here that the rifle was standard and unbedded, it also had a "pressure pad" in the forend....


    One of the test groups before any remedial work



    After examining the barrel bore, I thought that nothing would assist accuracy and that the barrel would need replacing, however after discussion with my friend, we agreed that we should attempt to at least try and reduce the group size before changing the barrel keeping the rifle as close to standard as possible.

    To cut a long story short, I mchined two ally pillars, relieved the stock at the forend and devcon bedded the action manufacturing a new recoil lug which was also bedded in devcon - I also recrowned the muzzle as this wasnt too crisp either.







    I an attempt to retain the original rifles intergrity, I tried to mkae the improvments as "invisible" as possible






    After reassmbly, I returned to the range and with baited breath commenced accuracy testing using bipod and rear bag (bear in mind 4x32 scope)

    Supplied factory ammo:



    Using SAMI spec 155 Scenar (my own target load)




    And once scope ajusted, one shot within the 3 inch target - I had to make the dots this big due to low powered scope!!





    The moral or point of the story is this - despite initial impressions that the barrel required replacement, there were other factors that needed discounting first - barrel pad removal and bedding, re crown.


    The rifle now shoots very well (with factory ammo) and should satisfy the owners requirements untill the barrel is changed.



    Dont immediately go for the "it needs a new barrel" option

  2. #2
    Whilst my views on free floating are known, I have to admit that you have done a neat job that is largely unnoticeable. Of course you do not show the free floating gap in the forestock .

    I also have to say that perhaps your friend does not deserve such a rifle allowing it to become so filthy and the bore to become damaged .

    Now as to the pillers never having a Sako so never having pulled one out of it's stock I am uncertain as to how their recoil lug is positioned nor how it locates in the stock I am trying here to picture how they would work with a Mauser 98 type action such as used on the Parker-Hales. As I have one in which the bedding could do with tweeking however I do not want an ugly gap in the fore stock for a floated barrel and it's not quite as simple as that Sako as it's a drop mag version and so has an extra small hidden retaining screw at the front of the trigger guard under the magazine catch complete with little fiddly spacer .

    Have been mulling this over for some time since Steve Kershaw said the action bedding is not perfect so your views on it, difficult without really seeing it I realise, would be appreciated.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Brithunter View Post
    Whilst my views on free floating are known, I have to admit that you have done a neat job that is largely unnoticeable. Of course you do not show the free floating gap in the forestock .

    I also have to say that perhaps your friend does not deserve such a rifle allowing it to become so filthy and the bore to become damaged .

    Now as to the pillers never having a Sako so never having pulled one out of it's stock I am uncertain as to how their recoil lug is positioned nor how it locates in the stock I am trying here to picture how they would work with a Mauser 98 type action such as used on the Parker-Hales. As I have one in which the bedding could do with tweeking however I do not want an ugly gap in the fore stock for a floated barrel and it's not quite as simple as that Sako as it's a drop mag version and so has an extra small hidden retaining screw at the front of the trigger guard under the magazine catch complete with little fiddly spacer .

    Have been mulling this over for some time since Steve Kershaw said the action bedding is not perfect so your views on it, difficult without really seeing it I realise, would be appreciated.
    I had my Sako A11 floated and glass bedded by I.F.Thomson you have to look very close to see it, does not look any different than a standard model but can pass a sheet of A4 between the barrel and woodwork.
    IMO best thing I ever did to this rifle.

  4. #4
    What a lovely job youv'e made of that Redmist,love the round recoil lug what a good idea,i've got a 691 and free floated the barrel as the fore end was warping and was only making contact on one lug gradually altering my POI but would like to ultimatley bed the action any chance you could make another set of pillars and a lug like those i'd certainally be interested.
    ATB Neil.

  5. #5
    Distinguished Member Ronin's Avatar
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    My apologies for being remiss - the barrel channel:






    On the subject of PH's

    Some ive seen have a pressed in steel "pillar" in the stock at each action hole, you can bed the stocks using this or remove it and replace with a thicker walled pillar of steel - if you make them out of aluminium they are a bit thin walled to be strong enough (IMHO) on these rifles.

    The forward piller by the way should touch the action screw spigot base on the underside of the action.


    The two PH's I have bedded have had just tang and forward action area bedded, one can machine a void to accomodate the magazine retention screw.

  6. #6
    Distinguished Member Ronin's Avatar
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    Neil


    yes it would not be a problem to do this - the rifle would need to be with me though to measure the pillars, lug, machine them and bed it.

  7. #7
    Thanks Redmist i didn't know if you could not just make a set from the dimensions of those ones that would fit okay,i'll have to have think about it.
    Kind regards Neil.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Redmist View Post
    My apologies for being remiss - the barrel channel:






    On the subject of PH's

    Some ive seen have a pressed in steel "pillar" in the stock at each action hole, you can bed the stocks using this or remove it and replace with a thicker walled pillar of steel - if you make them out of aluminium they are a bit thin walled to be strong enough (IMHO) on these rifles.

    The forward piller by the way should touch the action screw spigot base on the underside of the action.


    The two PH's I have bedded have had just tang and forward action area bedded, one can machine a void to accomodate the magazine retention screw.
    Well I must admit in the photo of the fore stock the gaps doe not look excessive, unlike some I have seen, perhaps you can give me an idea on the cost of bedding the this Parker-Hale 1200C. BTW the third small screw retains the magazine well outer case/housing and the front of the trigger guard. The front fore stock screw goes through a steel piece that on a floor plate rifle would be the front tang of the guard. Yes it has the steel pillars/tubes front and rear. although the front is different to the one you did before.

    Getting the magazine case/housing in just the right place to allow the magazine to drop free requires a bit of fiddling and trial and error I found.

    Am thinking you would really need to see this to judge how best to do a bedding job on it. I am looking at a new year time frame as other projects in at the front of the queue right now.

  9. #9
    Distinguished Member Ronin's Avatar
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    Neil

    every rifle is different (well different if your working to .000"), when I bed any rifle, I wrap the barrel so it is centred within the barrel channel - this alters the pillar length - you cant measure for pillar length untill the action is set to be perfectly parallel in the stock.

    I could make you some over length pillars and a bedding block if you wanted - you would have to get them machined to length if you chose to bed the rifle yourself.

    You would also need to have at least a dremel, or better a milling machine to hog out the stock where the replacement lug sits.


    Brithunter

    the barrel channel was relieved only so much that would allow a pine needle to drop out - (just over 1/8th of an inch)
    As you will be aware all stocks flex - to a degree, if you flex this stock or attach a bipod, the flex wont allow the barrel and barrel channel to meet and have a detrimental affect on accuracy.


    Re your 1200c

    (I know the type)

    If the stock is not too oil "absorbed" and the factory "pillars" are the correct length (in contact with bottom metal and base of action), I would leave them in and bed only the areas of the stock around the front reciever - forward action screw / recoil "lug" and first inch of the barrel channel and also the rear tang area.


    I have done similar PH's in 30-06 (x2) and they responded quite well, the grouping capability reducing by 50% in each case - down to 1.5 to 2 inches from 4.... these had seen quite hard use and to be honest needed either new barrel or retiring, I am always a sucker for sob stories

    Quite often you see some "materiel" thats been used for home bedding work - its easier to remove this and start again.


    It was mentioned in a previous post about the owner of this gun being somewhat at fault for its condition;

    moot point - possibly, BUT if the rifle is stored in a gunsafe in a garage thats subjected to ambient moisture, humididty from washing machine / dryer etc and the owner is unaware that the bottle of gun oil they bought ten years ago actually does nothing for corrosion protection, then he is only (IMO) partially to blame.


    A patch of VP90 in these circs does wonders, although in this case, the damage done to the barrel is irreversable - it still shoots at humane accuracy levels well within the limits that the end user will be dispatching deer at.

  10. #10
    Thank you. the stock is sound and dry. The only oil present is the oiled finish and the bedding is factory no compound just the original wood. Now as for precision the rifle already shoots under 1 1/2" in most cases but not always. it did not like this factory Federal Premium 100 grain much:-

    The Black half circle tin hats are off an old NSRA 25 yard target and they are 39.. (1.535") in diameter

    As you can see the potential is there but although it's minute of deer I am not happy enough with it to use it on game yet.


    This is Sako 117 grain game Head factory ammunition.


    The hand load using the 120 Grain flat based Speer bullet showed promise as you can see:-


    Even though only shot at 70 yards That was shot using the wildcat moderator.


    This was during load testing and it is five shots.




    But it's targets like this that make me believe that yes the action bedding needs some attention now. The testing spread out over a long period as I brought a new scope to go on the rifle and after a short time it proved to be faulty the replacement showed the same fault so was sent back and I then I robbed the 6x42 S&B off another rifle and it now wears that scope. However I still get stringing as you can see. Despite the slightly worn and heat crazed bore it should be possible to get it reliably grouping under MOA.

    Oh and in my view an 1/8" gap beside the barrel is huge. It does not show in your photos very well due to the shadows. Sorry to have wasted you time but that sort of gap is not acceptable to me. Right now the barrel channel allows a single slip of paper to pass between it and the barrel from chamber reinforce to fore stock bedding point. I have other rifles like a P-H 1100 Lwt with the factory bedding which shoot well and with the action bedding corrected I fully expect this one to do the same.

    As all my rifles also form part of my collection retaining the external appearance is also of importance to me as I am sure you will understand.

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