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Thread: Cleaning products

  1. #1

    Cleaning products

    Just need some input on some of the best rifle cleaning products.

    I'm thinking:
    a. Lead, copper, carbon, plastic residue in the barrell
    b. solvent for degreasing the outside of the barrell, bolt, etc.
    c. wood 'invigorating' solvent - not to sound gay, but to treat the stock nicely (not laminated)

    I tend to use a basic run through of Parker Hale 009, leave for 5 mins, then a standard barrell cleaner on a copper brush for 5-10 strokes, followed by the same cleaner on patches for a few strokes, finished off by around 20 patches until clean. However, I am not sure how to best clean a non-laminated stock and keept it 'young', as well as the outside of the barrel. I once read you should strip all grease from a barrell now and again using a 'solvent', which removes, grime, corrosion, and small spots of rust, etc. and then re-grease. what 'solvent' exactly is this that's being referred to, I generally just scrub and re-grease the outside of the barrell but never 'strip and re-grease'.

    Do you guys use a different oil for the inside and outside of your barrell, and do you use a specific 'solvent' for degreasing the outside of the barrel? Also, I saw a product in my local, it said 'removes and restores blueing' - WTF! how can one product do both?......

    ...and GOD FORBID a touch of copper deposit left overnight - just being sarcastic

    ...maybe I should just stick with my existing technique....

  2. #2
    i use the kg range of stuff. carbon remover,copper remover, and then after barrel is clean i put a dab of kg oil on a patch and go down the bore. out side the barrel i use the browning's spray. put on arag rub it over the action and barrel leave for a bit then wipe it off.

    if the crown of the rifle is very dirty i get the very fine wirewool 0001 or whatever it is. put some carbon cleaner on it and gentle with the thumb clean the crown. it soon brings the crown face clean.

    dont go to hard though as you dont want to catch anywhere round the crown. get a action cleaning rod to. put the patch of wool you get with them. put it in the action from the back it cleans the lug rail and then turn it round in the back of the action. wipe bolt face over. bit of grease on the lugs work the bolt a couple of times to coat the rails in the action. and job done.

    soory dont have a wooden stock so wouldnt no how to clean that. for my plasic stock i put wd40 on a rag and it brings it up like new.

    forgot to say clean the thread. and drop a bit of grease on that thread and the thread of the mod.

  3. #3
    Hoppe's Copper Solvent for inside the barrel.

    Oily rag for wiping down the metals.

    Boiled linseed oil for stock rejuvenating at the end of the season.

    I like to keep it simple, life is complicated enough.
    There is a place on this planet for all of God's creatures, right next to my tatties and gravy!!!

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by PKL View Post
    Just need some input on some of the best rifle cleaning products.

    I'm thinking:
    a. Lead, copper, carbon, plastic residue in the barrell
    b. solvent for degreasing the outside of the barrell, bolt, etc.
    c. wood 'invigorating' solvent - not to sound gay, but to treat the stock nicely (not laminated)

    I tend to use a basic run through of Parker Hale 009, leave for 5 mins, then a standard barrell cleaner on a copper brush for 5-10 strokes, followed by the same cleaner on patches for a few strokes, finished off by around 20 patches until clean. However, I am not sure how to best clean a non-laminated stock and keept it 'young', as well as the outside of the barrel. I once read you should strip all grease from a barrell now and again using a 'solvent', which removes, grime, corrosion, and small spots of rust, etc. and then re-grease. what 'solvent' exactly is this that's being referred to, I generally just scrub and re-grease the outside of the barrell but never 'strip and re-grease'.

    Do you guys use a different oil for the inside and outside of your barrell, and do you use a specific 'solvent' for degreasing the outside of the barrel? Also, I saw a product in my local, it said 'removes and restores blueing' - WTF! how can one product do both?......

    ...and GOD FORBID a touch of copper deposit left overnight - just being sarcastic

    ...maybe I should just stick with my existing technique....
    OK I have to ask.....................Plastic in the barrel? where does this come from?

    Now I am nto sayign this is the only way to clean but it's how I do it having tried several products and methods over the years.

    I scrub the bore with P-H 009 with a bronze brush dipped in the 009. Yes I have an old bottle that i tip just enough into of this and leave the rest in the new bottle and top up the dipping bottle as required. The bore gets a dozen strokes forwards and the same amount backwards yes I scrub the bore both way in-out..in-out. Then then wipe the brush and rod and apply a fresh coating of 009 with 6 stokes and left it to soak in for 1/2 hour min. Then it's all wiped out with clean patches using enough to remove it all and the muzzle/crown wiped with a clean patch. If the bore is showing copper fouling I will than use an application of forest Bore Foam and leave it to work. Using this method it took 2 1/2 days to remove some 40-50 years accumulated jacket fouling in the .270 majestic and yes it worked and it uncovered the filled in rifling grooves.

    I do not clean after every shoot or shot unless the rifle gets wet or precision is degrading. Cleaning will then depend on the amount of shots fired and will be done when I judge it's needed or the rifle's behaviour tells me it needs doing. Now all mine are older rifles and have traditional Blacked (Blued) steel and wood furniture. I never grease the outside of a rifle I lightly oil if required and to remove old oil and grime I soak a patch in P-H009 and wipe it down. Now the wood stock depends on the finish but I have yet to see one that a patch soaked with 009 does not remove the grime. On oiled finishes I rub in a spot of BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) or stock finish oil if the stock is dull of has got a scratch. you can apply a stock wax polish but I have never done so even though i_I do have a tin of it. varnished or poly finishes can be wiped down with a light oil like 3 in 1 or just wiped dry after wiping down with the P-H 009. I did try the 3 in 1 idea once but usually just use the P-H 009 mineral oil is not good for wood.

    On the bolt lugs I will apply a tiny smear of LT2 air gun grease and if the rails need a drop then one drop of Express oil and the bolt worked will spread it then any excess is wiped off. If I am not going to be looking at or using the rifle for a period then it gets a wipe down with a patch with Express oil on it and put away.

    The majority of my rifles have a traditional Oiled stock finish as I find the poly ones slippery although I am restoring the poly finish on one. Simply to keep in with the original factory finish it came with which was chipped in a number of places when I acquired the rifle. I would expect a modern laminated stock to have a form of poly sprayed on finish.

  5. #5
    I use forrest bore foam first, I give it a squirt until it foams out of the other end, then leave it overnight. I scrub out the residue using Hoppes no9 with my bronze brush, I too brush both ways, then patch out. I clean the brush and rod and apply a good amount of no9 with a well soaked patch, I leave this to work on the barrel for a minimum of 45mins. Then I patch out until the patches are clean. Then I use a tiny amount of 3 in 1 on a patch pushed through the barrel, then patch untill it comes out clean. Before I go shooting again I patch with meths, then patch out untill they come out clean. This seems to limit the flyers one can get after cleaning, someone on this site kindly told me of this wheeze, it works too!

    As for the outside of the barrel/action, I use an oily rag, although a friend has suggested using a silicone impregnated cloth. I use moly grease, very very sparingly on the bolt and its lugs.

    My rifle stock is plastic so I just use Armor All on it, but on my lovely walnut shotgun stock I use a mixture of one third artist's quality turpentine to two thirds artist's quality boiled linseed oil, this can be coloured with alkanet root oil to give a red finish. This is used very sparingly and rubbed in hard by hand, producing friction heating, it leaves a nice shine.

    ft
    Blindness to suffering is an inherent consequence of natural selection. Nature is neither kind nor cruel but fiercely indifferent.

  6. #6
    After 40 or so shots, Pro-Shot Copper Solvent IV and a nylon bore brush, leave it 10 mins, then patches until it's dry. Same company's Pro Gold lube for bolt lugs and Zero Friction for bolt race. As a concession to old cleaning technology I use Youngs 303 as an exterior wipe-down on blued metal - just because I like the smell.
    KevinF -

  7. #7
    I use KG stuff based on advice from Steve Kershaw. The carbon remover works really well with just patches so does away with brushing. I then use bore restore after a fair few rounds to remove any copper. If it's going in the cabinet for a while then a patch through with Kroil.
    I just use napier gun cleaner on the outside of rifles and shotguns, solvent and lubricant/rust preventer in one.

  8. #8
    Ok, so I've picked up some linseed oil at the local health store - they thought I was crazy when I explained what I was using it for! 5 for 250m, assume that's a normal price...

    so, do I boil it before using it on grey 'tired' wood..no funny remarks please! if so for how long,,does it get super thick or stay quite liquidy?

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by PKL View Post
    Ok, so I've picked up some linseed oil at the local health store - they thought I was crazy when I explained what I was using it for! 5 for 250m, assume that's a normal price...

    so, do I boil it before using it on grey 'tired' wood..no funny remarks please! if so for how long,,does it get super thick or stay quite liquidy?
    You an buy Boiled Linseed, can be found in most decorating/DIY shops.
    There is a place on this planet for all of God's creatures, right next to my tatties and gravy!!!

  10. #10
    I use a BROWNING LEGIA stock oil for my MAXUS rifle realy good and cheap product.

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