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Thread: READ THIS

  1. #1

    READ THIS

    Reloading is an interesting and satisfying hobby, one where you can usually better the results that are achieved with factory ammunition, which is good for you, and even better for your quarry, shot placement is paramount. There may be a cost factor involved as it is cheaper to load your own ammunition, however most hand loaders that I know, shoot more and as they get more experienced acquire more and more “essential” equipment.

    The first thing you should do as a hand loader is to get a recognised manual and read it carefully, and then read it at least once more.

    However reloading can be dangerous, and this should never be forgotten. All loads should be worked up, never exceed the maximum loads as indicated in the reloading manual. These suggested loads are there for a reason, they have been developed by experienced people with far more resources at their disposal than you or I. Trying to make your rifle out perform what it was designed to do is not good for it and possibly dangerous for you. Excessive pressure being arrived at by too “hot” loads may not be evident today but eventually it will become evident, usually in an explosive manner. Turning your rifle into some sort of missile launcher is not required, the manufacturers of bullets, heads, call them what you will, make these things to function correctly within certain criteria, factory speeds being somewhere near the optimum. So, out of respect for your quarry species allow the bullet to do its work in the manner it was designed to.

    Various people will post their load recipes on here, which is good. It is what we need, knowledge is the key to progress and we want to progress in our sport. It is therefore vital to remember what is safe in someone elses rifle may not be safe in yours’. Remember your first line of defence is the brass casing, be nice to it, be sensible, how many people give out under stress?, brass is different? Your reloading is your responsibility, nobody else and most definitely not that of this site.

    The loads published within this forum by members are NOT guaranteed as being safe in your rifle. You use them at your own risk, you have been warned.

    Admin

  2. #2
    Hello Admin,
    Exactly. I omitted to mention the fact of starting a few grains lower and working up to max if required when I mentioned the H4895 loading for .270.
    My apologies on that one.

    'Hard to point out things without sounding patronizing or big-headed but I have noticed one loading in the forum which is several grains over the top recommended loading in the handbook for that powder.
    I forget where it was now.

    I'm a new boy on this site and I have the time right now to prowl through your forum and comment, but I have a feeling that I might cheese a few of your members off a bit no matter how diplomatic I am.
    On the whole I get the sense that everyone is pretty supportive and helpful. The site lends great moral support.

    This space, however, will be quiet enough for a while as there are matters pending to occupy the most of August and September.

  3. #3
    I have the Lee Manual and have been advised to read several others. Recommendations please?

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by newkid View Post
    I have the Lee Manual and have been advised to read several others. Recommendations please?
    The only trouble with that is, that different books 'sometimes' have different min - max weights for the same powder.
    I have at least ten reloading manuals that I have collected over the years, some by the same manufacturer, Lyman springs to mind, and they are not identical.
    The best two that I can think of to recommend would be, Reloading by Richard Lee and the Lyman Reloaders Manual.
    They are both easy to read and between them they cover mostly all of the powders available.

  5. #5
    The only trouble with that is, that different books 'sometimes' have different min - max weights for the same powder.
    Well of course and that's because they used different barrels to do the testing and development. Tis a rare thing to find two barrels the same and that perform the same.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Brithunter View Post
    Well of course and that's because they used different barrels to do the testing and development. Tis a rare thing to find two barrels the same and that perform the same.
    There are many reasons for different powder tables but I didn't want to go into them as there are so many, I just wanted to point out that there can be a difference between different manufactureres just in case someone took one book as 'Gospel'

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by EMcC View Post
    There are many reasons for different powder tables but I didn't want to go into them as there are so many, I just wanted to point out that there can be a difference between different manufactureres just in case someone took one book as 'Gospel'
    good comment eddie,

    i have had about 4 books here for reloading and they all differ in one way or another, i found that if i stick to the one that covers my 20 tactical rifle im happy,

    so far no need for as much as a plaster nevermind a face full of brass etc.

    flash holes only work once

    bob.
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  8. #8
    Good advice. Hot loads are not good loads usually for accuracy anyway.

  9. #9
    Having seen the results of an idiot using "hot" loads (sickening facial injuries) I would suggest any newcomer to reloading asks for help from the guys on the forum. There are plenty of decent guys on here who homeload and who I'm sure would be happy to sit in for an hour or so and supervise a local newboy.

  10. #10
    I'm just starting out on the reloading path, in fact I'm eagerly awaiting delivery of my RCBS rock chucker beginners kit!

    I'm planning on reloading my sako brass to begin with but would welcome and advice on bullets, powders, primers etc to get me heading in the right direction. I want to reload with 100gr expanding.

    Cheers

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