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Thread: redding bushing size

  1. #1

    redding bushing size

    I am going to buy a redding s type neck bushing die for 257 roberts ai.
    Have measured the out side neck diameter of set of newly fire formed cases.0.283 remmington.
    Measured the cases ive been using for last 12 months which are winchesters 0.285.
    All cases where measured when loaded. all shot in my own gun.
    do i go with the size of newly fire formed cases and order bush -0.001"

    BOB

  2. #2
    No offense, but if you aren't sure what diameter you are needing, why are you ordering it? Did someone talk you into this purchase? Or were you dissatisfied with what you've been using? I only ask because usually a person orders this kind of die because they need a specific tension.... or someone has convinced them they need it.~Muir

  3. #3
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    Hiya Bob,

    I use the redding bushing dies myself and I get great results with them.

    The way I do it is the way redding advise which is on you-tube >>>>

    You measure the outside neck diameter of a finished round and reduce it by .001".

    I have had some really great results.

  4. #4
    Bob

    Muir makes a good point. Here's an interesting article on bushing dies:

    The Rifleman's Journal: Basics: Neck Tension

    I have a Redding bushing die but it's the full length version and I ordered up 4 bushings in order to be able to find out which one worked best with my brass. I neck turn the brass and the recommendation made to me was that unless you had consistent necks, the bushing die was a waste of time.

    Rgds JCS

  5. #5
    Consistency is WAY more important than ANY specific "tension" or diameter. You should strive for consistent neck wall thicknesses. When the neck walls are all the same thickness, the "tension" will be consistent between cases.

    If your current loads aren't 'broke', the best recommendation is don't 'fix' 'em. If they are 'broke', (and you want to concentrate on "neck issues" as the culprit), start with turning the necks to a uniform thickness. IF that results in loose-fitting bullets, THEN select a bushing die of appropriate diameter for the TURNED necks.

    Regards,
    Paul

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by gitano View Post
    Consistency is WAY more important than ANY specific "tension" or diameter. You should strive for consistent neck wall thicknesses. When the neck walls are all the same thickness, the "tension" will be consistent between cases.

    If your current loads aren't 'broke', the best recommendation is don't 'fix' 'em. If they are 'broke', (and you want to concentrate on "neck issues" as the culprit), start with turning the necks to a uniform thickness. IF that results in loose-fitting bullets, THEN select a bushing die of appropriate diameter for the TURNED necks.

    Regards,
    Paul
    I use Lapua brass which is pretty consistent (Within .001") neck wall thickness. I have tried batching them and tried not batching them on wall thickness and it made no difference to me. However I am sure if I had used cheaper less consistent brass it would have made a bigger difference.

    The long range hunting guys in the USA all tell me that to get more consistent ES and SD concentrate more on powder selection, consistent ammo processes and bullet seating.

    Neck turning can make a difference at extreme ranges (1000yds+) but I have not found it necessary so far up to 700yds.

    I concentrate now on getting consistent small groups and knowing the correct drops at different ranges which I have perfected by field testing my drop charts.

    I am now hitting rabbits at 400yds consistently (8-9 times out of 10) and if the wind is sub 3fps I will attempt longer shots up to 800yds and have taken a hare at 704yds.

  7. #7
    and have taken a hare at 704yd
    Very cool!

    I think the longest shot I have ever taken on any game animal was just a bit over 400 paces. It too was a hare. The rifle was an "as-issued" Model 700 chambered 7mm Rem Mag.

    Back on topic, I turn the necks on military .308 Win brass. Of the 30-some-odd other chamberings I have, I turn the necks on only two; a benchrest .257/.30-40 Krag Ackley Improved on a Martini Henry action, and a 7x57 Mauser on a Ruger No.1. The Ruger has a tight throat, or I wouldn't turn the necks on it.

    Regards,
    Paul

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by gitano View Post
    Consistency is WAY more important than ANY specific "tension" or diameter. You should strive for consistent neck wall thicknesses. When the neck walls are all the same thickness, the "tension" will be consistent between cases.

    If your current loads aren't 'broke', the best recommendation is don't 'fix' 'em. If they are 'broke', (and you want to concentrate on "neck issues" as the culprit), start with turning the necks to a uniform thickness. IF that results in loose-fitting bullets, THEN select a bushing die of appropriate diameter for the TURNED necks.

    Regards,
    Paul
    100% correct. Especially the point about "if it ain't broke"! Also, there is the matter of the rifle involved. I won't turn brass on a hunting rifle unless it is required. (My original 25 Neidner Krag cones to mind) I just use good brass of the same Lot... but these days I seldom shoot farther than I care to walk!~Muir

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