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Thread: xxx

  1. #1

  2. #2
    this is what i do, i neck turn my 300rum mainly, using the same device, normally turn brass off the neck all round just enough so it is clean/shiney this means that it should have a uniform thickness, you can reduce it more, there must be a limit as the neck will eventually be to thin, full length of the neck, you will also need a set of competition dies so you can adjust the tension of the neck by 2-3 thou more if you want a bit of trial and error as the neck will not be right for a set of standard dies.

    i think it is worth it for odd calibres and accuracy for long range,
    i use redding comp dies but any comp dies will be of quality anyway,

    i have found it makes the rounds smoother feeding in other cals and more consistent, this is about last step in reloading accuracy

    steve

  3. #3
    Sorry, going to show my ignrance but what does neck turning achieve? I am not a reloader so be kind!!!

  4. #4
    300wsm - I have neck turned for .22-250, .308 and, most lately, 6.5x55.

    I used the Lyman neck turner and took off enough brass so that the cases were trimmed around 60% of their circumference. this usually results in very consistent neck thickness.

    With Hornady neck sizing and Lee factory crimp dies, there was an appreciable increase in precision.

    Have now sold the Lyman kit and gone over to a hand-held neck turner by K&M. It is easier to use and, I believe, more sensitive. The Lyman kit used to tear the brass given the smallest excuse.

    Is it worth it?

    It is a hobby and keeps me off the street.

    I wrote originally that "I took off enough bras" - but corrected it. Can't actually imagine taking off enough bras.

    Anyway, moving on............

  5. #5
    Now this is interesting, I have never bothered with neck turning. I think that I convinced myself years ago that for my style of reloading and required accuracy, that I did not need to. Never had time if truth be told.

    However, charadam is probably the first person I have heard say, or should I say seen write, that there is an appreciable increase in precision using of all things Lee equipment. He then goes on to point out that irrespective of it's benefit, it is his hobby.

    Isn't it refreshing in this modern age of designer this and that, someone points out it is a hobby, and improvement can be gained without falling into the trap of buying the absolute best out there.

    Now, I have to start trying to get myself out of a hole, or at least a shallow depression. It is not intended as a dig at those amongst us who have the very best of equipment as I am sure that they have taken this part of their hobby to a higher level, driven by their thirst for improvement.

    Lets not forget it is a hobby. I may give neck turning a try myself.

    John

  6. #6
    Distinguished Member Ronin's Avatar
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    I have a few rifles that have tight (fitted) necks (they wont take standard factory rounds)

    The cheapest accuracy gain you can have when having a rfle rebarrelled is to have a tight neck chamber - it doesnt cost any more than a standard chamber.

    The goal, is to have your brass sit entierly concentric within the chamber, any irregularities at the neck (uneven / non concentric neck wall thickness) will and does have e detrimental effect on accuracy.

    Not that this matters much to a sporting rifle, but I for one prefer to take out all factors that will reduce accuracy, leaving only the nut behind the bolt as a factor of doubt.

    How much to take off?

    Entirely dependant on what the neck size is really - for example, if you have a 6.5mm with a .290" neck, you want to remove sufficient brass from the neck so that a loaded round measures .287 /8" or put another way the bullet is .264" diameter, the neck diemeter is .290" then the neck wall thickness needs to be .012" (264+12+12 = 288)

    Is it worth doing?

    Have to say yes, bear in mind you only ever do it once per case and its done.

    Is it for everyone?

    No, this is advanced handloading you need to be very careful and measure very precicely what your doing otherwise you end up with at best scrap brass or dangerously thin neck walls.

    Dies?

    Have to use bushing style dies for reloading and select a bushing .002" smaller than the loaded round diameter.

    You can also neck turn cases for standard chambers, by doing a 3/4 turn clean up (clean the brass so that material is removed from 3/4 of the diameter of the case) this does also have a positive effect of accuracy.

    Oh, I load for 22-250, 6.5x47, 6.5x284, 7mm/300WSM, 7mm/270WSM, 308, and 338LM - five of these are fitted necks.

    I wouldnt do it if there was no benefit - it's not a fun task!


    Hope this helps.

  7. #7
    Redmist - what you said x2!!

    Jayb - my Lee dies, as it happens are extremely accurate and happen to give the neck tension needed to take advantage of neck turning.

    Otherwise I would have had to buy the more expensive bushing type dies.

    I'm a Jock - so no way that was going to happen!

  8. #8

  9. #9
    I use a Sinclair neck turner...

    It's actually quite quick, what I do is to mount the case in a Lee zip trim / universal chuck: first trim it with the Lee trimer, slight inside neck chamfer, then turn the neck turn, then outside neck chamfer. Trimming first means that you get a consistent length of cut.

    If you shoot 260 or 243 and you're tight fisted, then you can usually get 308 once fired brass fairly cheaply, neck turn it and size it down. If you try necking down without neck turning then you end up with a thick neck. However the case length is a bit on the short side for 243 or 260.

    My next barrel is going to be a wildcat 6mm made by necking down a 308, I made up a couple of dummy rounds, sent them off and had a chamber reamer ground to match...

  10. #10
    Mat,

    I tried the powered approach to neck turning (not a ZipTrim, but a powered screwdriver) and kept tearing up the brass.

    Tried a number of cutting lubricants with no success.

    What's your secret?

    Charles

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