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Thread: Pulling on a lead

  1. #1
    Distinguished Member tartinjock's Avatar
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    Pulling on a lead

    I have a Pet dog, that I'll take stalking if I'm by myself, but because he is on the lead he pulls how can I stop this.

    Thanks

    TJ
    Position and hold must be firm enough to support the firearm
    The firearm must point naturally at the target without any undue physical effort
    Sight alignment (aiming) must be correct
    The shot must be released and followed through without disturbing the position

  2. #2
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    TJ,

    Try a Halti - you'll find them in shops and on the net. It leads the dog by pulling the muzzle round, so they have to change direction. Worked on my Ridgeback in short shrift. The other thing to do is to take the dog for a walk and consistently change direction. The dog will learn that he needs to follow you (at the moment he's trying to be the leader) and will start to walk on a slack lead. Lots of encouragement and patience should sort this out.
    I know of some that have had success with pinch collars too, but I think the Halti is the way to go.

    What dog?

    E t R
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  3. #3
    I walk y dog when training with a small green garden cane in my hand the same hand i am holding the lead in if the dog walks passed my knee the cane moves swiflty across his nose and some time just in thin air to remind him. It took about 4 good long walks before the message sunk in and he is now 11 and will walk to heal with no encouragement. ps i dont have the stick or the lead any more.
    Last edited by 6pointer; 24-02-2011 at 17:37.

  4. #4
    Im going to go against the grain here slightly.

    If Im training a dog, no matter what age or breed I usually just give a good yark (and I mean a good one)on the lead when they start to pull, accompanied with the command "HEEL". My last lab pup was "HEELING" without a lead in 20 minutes.

    Haltis are good at stopping them pulling on the lead but I feel they are a preventer rather than a cure.
    There is a place on this planet for all of God's creatures, right next to my tatties and gravy!!!

  5. #5
    I agree with all of the replies so far, Halti, stick in front of nose and good yank. Only thing I would add is this, if you can, treat the dog training and stalking with the dog as seperate tasks. HPR's are quite difficult to get to heel behind your leg as they always want to be a nose length in front for scenting, nose length becomes head length becomes dog length etc. JC

  6. #6
    My GSP used to pull like mad when he was a younger pup. I tried the good yank etc and it made a difference for about 20 mins till he would forget about it and started pulling again. This went on for months until one day I grabbed him by the top of his back leg bbt hooking my hand around it and lifting him up a bit and pulling him back. I was quite gentle with this and it didn't hurt him in the slightest, but he hates it and it only took a couple of goes to stop him pulling and have him heeling even without a lead reasonably well!

    Gez

  7. #7
    Distinguished Member tartinjock's Avatar
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    Cheers for the replies, I'll give the stick/cane a go, failing that, a Halti.

    Thanks

    TJ
    Position and hold must be firm enough to support the firearm
    The firearm must point naturally at the target without any undue physical effort
    Sight alignment (aiming) must be correct
    The shot must be released and followed through without disturbing the position

  8. #8
    I train my dogs by dan's method and I also have them walkin just in front so they help scenting deer in front,JC is correct some dogs will try and take the pee but if you incorporate a slap on the thigh into the training when saying heel they soon get used to comin back to heel
    Take it slow,starting with the lead first,after dog not pulling just let the lead drop onto ground if dog persists in going forward too far,stand on lead,then progress to no lead once dog stops going too far forward
    Some breeds heel much better than others
    Never had no problems with labs(even headstrong ones)using this method
    Cheers

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  9. #9
    SD Regular johngryphon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6pointer View Post
    I walk y dog when training with a small green garden cane in my hand the same hand i am holding the lead in if the dog walks passed my knee the cane moves swiflty across his nose and some time just in thin air to remind him. It took about 4 good long walks before the message sunk in and he is now 11 and will walk to heal with no encouragement. ps i dont have the stick or the lead any more.
    Plus one on that except I will use a whippy little broken fishing rod,cutting the air with a "swish" in front of them makes them take notice.

  10. #10
    Hi
    Its all about timing.
    think of an imaginary line where you want your dog to walk, as soon as the dogs nose crosses this line give a sharp yank on the lead but to the side not straight back.this snaps the dog out of what it is thinking and gets it to concentrate on you.then follow up with the word heal or what ever command you are using and at first you might have to put the dog back where you want him/her to be.
    don't forget the art is in the timing and as soon as he/she crosses the imaginary line yank that lead to one side (this unbalances the dog and gets his/her attention) and the word heal.
    They soon get the message.
    Constancy and timing are the key words here. when walking your dog IE training your dog have your mind 100% on the dog. not chatting to a mate or talking on the phone, or your timing and consistency will be out and the dog will get the wrong message.
    the stick one works as well but i normally use this one for heal work wile not on the lead.
    ATB
    Cam

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