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Thread: Changing scopes and keeping your zero

  1. #1

    Changing scopes and keeping your zero

    Time to put my new scope on today and i was dreading the tedeous sighting in process with no bore sight to hand. However i happened to have a laser for my .22rf so i mounted it to the barrel of my .223 and set it according to my old scope. Old scope off, new one on and zeroed it to the laser dot. Perfect, new one on, zeroed in a couple minutes and not even fired a single round . Them lasers aint expensive either, get them on ebay for the cost of a box of good ammo.

  2. #2
    You have a set of boresighters! The Mark one eyeball!

  3. #3
    It would have took a few shots to get on paper anyway, the position of the new scope was 4 feet or so from the laser sight dot

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by HoyBoy View Post
    Time to put my new scope on today and i was dreading the tedeous sighting in process with no bore sight to hand. However i happened to have a laser for my .22rf so i mounted it to the barrel of my .223 and set it according to my old scope. Old scope off, new one on and zeroed it to the laser dot. Perfect, new one on, zeroed in a couple minutes and not even fired a single round . Them lasers aint expensive either, get them on ebay for the cost of a box of good ammo.
    If you have not fired a round it's not zeroed. It would be different if it was collimated and it was the same scope.

  5. #5
    If you've got a secure method of clamping the rifle down you could aim it at a distant object, swap the scopes and then adjust the new scope to the same point of aim. You should be pretty close if the rifle can't move.

    As said above though, until you've fired a few shots you can't really call it zeroed.

    I've always managed to get it on a sheet of A2 at 100 yards just by looking down the bore, and often within a sheet of A4!

  6. #6
    Distinguished Member tartinjock's Avatar
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    I use a bore sighter I then set up a target about 10m away, take a shot, just to line up my left and right, once that's done, I then adjust my up/down to shoot about 15cm low at 10m, I then move back to about 50m and take another shot and adjust accordingly, but remaining about an inch low, then back to 100m and take a shot. I find this works for me, I remove the mod between shots and moving between the firing point gives the barrel/mod time to cool. Once I am on target, I will then confirm by taking another couple of shots.

    I can't start at 100m, I end up getting frustrated and chasing errors all day long for some reason.....

    TJ
    Position and hold must be firm enough to support the firearm
    The firearm must point naturally at the target without any undue physical effort
    Sight alignment (aiming) must be correct
    The shot must be released and followed through without disturbing the position

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