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Thread: A theoretical excercise in the perfect stalking rifle

  1. #1

    A theoretical excercise in the perfect stalking rifle

    I am thinking about getting a custom, if I can't find it ready made but I doubt it, stalking rifle for walking in the woods with.

    I will of course continue to have dalliances with many other rifles and take all manner of kit away on foreign holidays shooting, into high seats and up the hill but don't want to mess about on this particular topic.

    I have a list of attributes in mind and I would appreciate your thoughts on them and also anything that I may have missed:


    1. Calibre: A calibre with sufficient power to take all UK species without producing excessive recoil in consideration of the ideal weight given at 2. This could be anything from .243 to 30.06 depending on personal preference. For some reason I am thinking 6mmBR on the one hand, 6.5x55 or 308 at the other.
    2. Weight: Of sufficient weight not to kick the stalker to death when practising and also to hold steady enough on aim without bouncing at every heartbeat. Light enough to be carried between the hands for reasonable lengths of time without causing undue muscle fatigue. My Tikka weighs 7 1/2 pounds dry with mounts and the old meopta weighed at least a pound and a half. At 9 pounds it was at the limit of what could be comfortably carried between the hands as I discovered in Africa. I could do it for an hour or so before having to rest my arms or risk the lactic acid shakes if something did come out. I therefore think a change to a Zeiss 7x50 illuminated scope would save almost a pound on the scope and if another pound can be saved in the rifle it would have been a lot easier. I think therefore I want an all up weight of about 7-7 1/2 pounds.
    3. Barrel length: The rifle should be moderated so a 20" barrel would keep it fairly handy. I am thinking that a light moderator, ie the roedale or CMM4, would enable a barrel of not too thin profile to be profitably used.
    4. Action: A Remington action tricked up seems the most economical approach especially when stock availability is taken into account.
    5. Stock: Synthetic or carbonfibre for weather resistance and weight saving.


    Am I on the right track or should there be things I should consider?

    In these things, if properly considered, the whole should be more than just the sum of the individual parts.

  2. #2
    ..or buy a Sako that also looks good and outshoots most £3K custom jobs...

  3. #3
    I have a Sako.

    I am talking about a rifle customised to fit the user like a glove in every aspect imaginable.

    It's about the little things on this thread, not purely about putting venison on the ground.

  4. #4
    A Blaser or Krieghoff single shot "Kipplaufbuchse" custom barreled in 303 British, topped with a 3-9x42.
    When I win the lottery it'll be mine.
    You can't say muntjac without saying, Mmmmmm.

  5. #5
    I would really enjoy owning a Nosler Custom, but only if they agreed to make it in .270Win for me!
    (The Unspeakable In Pursuit Of The Uneatable.) " If I can help, I will help!." Former S.A.C.S. member!

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Grandhubert View Post
    I am thinking about getting a custom, if I can't find it ready made but I doubt it, stalking rifle for walking in the woods with.

    I will of course continue to have dalliances with many other rifles and take all manner of kit away on foreign holidays shooting, into high seats and up the hill but don't want to mess about on this particular topic.

    I have a list of attributes in mind and I would appreciate your thoughts on them and also anything that I may have missed:


    1. Calibre: A calibre with sufficient power to take all UK species without producing excessive recoil in consideration of the ideal weight given at 2. This could be anything from .243 to 30.06 depending on personal preference. For some reason I am thinking 6mmBR on the one hand, 6.5x55 or 308 at the other.
    2. Weight: Of sufficient weight not to kick the stalker to death when practising and also to hold steady enough on aim without bouncing at every heartbeat. Light enough to be carried between the hands for reasonable lengths of time without causing undue muscle fatigue. My Tikka weighs 7 1/2 pounds dry with mounts and the old meopta weighed at least a pound and a half. At 9 pounds it was at the limit of what could be comfortably carried between the hands as I discovered in Africa. I could do it for an hour or so before having to rest my arms or risk the lactic acid shakes if something did come out. I therefore think a change to a Zeiss 7x50 illuminated scope would save almost a pound on the scope and if another pound can be saved in the rifle it would have been a lot easier. I think therefore I want an all up weight of about 7-7 1/2 pounds.
    3. Barrel length: The rifle should be moderated so a 20" barrel would keep it fairly handy. I am thinking that a light moderator, ie the roedale or CMM4, would enable a barrel of not too thin profile to be profitably used.
    4. Action: A Remington action tricked up seems the most economical approach especially when stock availability is taken into account.
    5. Stock: Synthetic or carbonfibre for weather resistance and weight saving.


    Am I on the right track or should there be things I should consider?

    In these things, if properly considered, the whole should be more than just the sum of the individual parts.


    What is this all about old boy? Is the mid life crisis approaching?

    You know the rifle you describe already exists - it is sitting in my gunsafe.

    If you are really good, I might let you play with it....
    Brian.

    Just because you are paranoid, doesn't mean they aren't out to get you......

  7. #7
    If you are walking in the woods, lets stick with the 7x50 illuminated, that sounds ideal.

    If you are considering going to a 6mm or even a 6.5, why not try a 6.5x47? If you are happy with 100gn to 130gn bullets it would be ideal. If I was only ever going to shoot roe, cwd or muntjac I cannot imagine anything better.

    I am no fan of remington, and would rather buy a Tikka 595/590 or 695/690 to use as a base action, perhaps with a Lothar Walthar buttoned barrel fitted?

    But do you want to have something that will shoot any woodland deer you may come across? Sika? Reds? Then perhaps something with a little more power may be in order.

    As you have specified a shorter barrel length it precludes some of the super-powerful, ultra fast calibres. So perhaps a .308 would be ideal, especially moderated. It would allow you to shoot any buck or stag of a lifetime you could well come across in your travels and not be cumbersome to carry. It is even pig capable! There are worse choices.

    Or you could try a 7mm-08? I want to!

    Simon
    Blindness to suffering is an inherent consequence of natural selection. Nature is neither kind nor cruel but fiercely indifferent.

  8. #8
    OK, let's be serious, I am on your side.

    Assuming we aren't talking a full blown custom action on a Rem clone action, you have two choices as I see it. Build on a donor, either Sako or Remington.

    Sako are really nice as you know, you will have perfectly good bottom metal and trigger, so you don't need to buy these. Remington has many more options, but you will need to add a Jewell or Timney plus HS or Backburn bottom metal. You can get a Rem donor for about £400, a Sako is more like £700, but you will spend the £300 you saved on the extras for the Rem.

    Stock options are limited on Sako's, McMillans really, but these are the best in any case. There are dozens of options for the Rem.

    Regarding calibre, there are only two choices in my boook, 260rem or 7/08. If I was doing it again, I might go 7/08.

    Here is an option. Go and buy a tidy SH Rem in 7/08. Send it to a decent smith and have it cut to 20" and have a Roedale fitted on a spigot thread, this moves the mod' back another 30mm towards the action and further helps the balance. Put a replacement trigger in it. Now live with it for a while.

    At some point in a few months, buy it a stock. I would go for the McMillan Sako Hunter inlet for the Rem - this is the stock Kiri has on his 260. Get a McSwirly cos black stocks are boring. Replace the bottom metal when you can. Shoot the **** out of it for a couple of years.

    Get it rebarreled at some point when you have £700 to spare.

    Essentially this is what I am doing with the 22/250.

    Seriously, contact Adam - 1894 on AR, he has done this with Rem's in 243, 7/08 and 308 and that guy really knows his stuff.
    Brian.

    Just because you are paranoid, doesn't mean they aren't out to get you......

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by finnbear270 View Post
    I would really enjoy owning a Nosler Custom, but only if they agreed to make it in .270Win for me!
    You already have one, they are built on a Howa/Weathby action, fitted with a custom barrel, Tinmey trigger, and after market stock.


    ATB

    Tahr

  10. #10
    theres plenty of custom makers around i had mine made by rhino rifles and stafford synthetic stocks its does fit like a glove i have 2 a 243 and a 7mm-08 one built on a howa and the other a custom gbr action both pacnor barrels
    what i really like aboat custom stuff is theres no compromise you get what you want but be warned if you get one its hard to get a factory standard again
    i think 6.5x47 lapua is awsome caliber and will dispatch any uk deer species also 7mm-08 is a good choice with fantastic bullet selection and better down range performance than the 308 Attachment 6839

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