How to cape a deer

Lawiswar

Active Member
I've been reading a number of threads on this subject which I have found very useful but all seem to suggest that there must be no cuts in front of the fore legs for the cape to be ideal. If that is so how do you bleed the animal prior to gralloching?
 
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I read the title and was going to suggest a red a cape tied around the neck, and a blue and yellow S on its chest.
 
I've been reading a number of threads on this subject which I have found very useful but all seem to suggest that there must be no cuts in front of the fore legs for the cape to be ideal. If that is so how do you held the animal prior to gralloching?

That is easy
Just suspend the beast first and then cape it prior to the gralloch
if you are concerned as you may hav to it carrying some distance and don't want to cape first,
then just do a full gralloch and bleed it back through the diaphram
then cape it out when you get back to base

This article might shed a bit more light on it for you
http://www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk/showthread.php?6875-Chance-of-a-lifetime

ATB
 
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Sorry my typing and auto correct got in the way. I have now edited my question. Stone, that was what I was on about. Is it not a very bloody affair if you don't bleed it before gralloching?
 
Is it not a very bloody affair if you don't bleed it before gralloching?

I would not worry about it ,
And If the cape is some thing you really want, then I would worry even less about the cavity being covered in blood or getting your hands a little more bloody than they will be anyway
I would do my best to protect the cape from getting damaged or blood soiled with out messing about to much
Plus you can wipe the cavity out afterwards anyway
 
When I had my mount done I was told that a small slit in the front from bleeding the beast isnt so much a problem. What is a problem is when the cape has been cut from the front upto the chin or just the head has been removed at the neck. I remember seeing the guy who caped mine cut from the back of the neck and all cuts as small as possible, then wiped it done and gave a good rub in salt, wrapped it in cling film and into the freezer.
 
I always cape from half way down the chest back up. I hate seeing long necked taxidermy rather then shoulder mounts. Do the caping and then the bleeding. That should only delay the bleeding process by a few minutes on most of the smaller species anyway.
 
You would be suprised how many people try and present taxidermists with screwed up capes for their pride and joy.

Thay slit up the throat of their deer trophy ("as that how we always deal with the deer")and remove the windpipe. THEN decide its a good one and they would like it set up :doh:
It is about two-three hours EXTRA work using micro stitches and tiny needles and fishing line to try and do an invisible mend on the throat if the client insists on using the ruined cape. These repairs are always visible to a greater or lesser extend as inevitable hair is cut if the normal throat slitting is done

Better to always reach into the chest cavity and cut the windpipe and gullet within the body, bleed the animal out through the diaphram. As a guide I always deal with all deer that way now and once back at the larder, the windpipe is removed if the cape is not required.

Most taxidermists save good summer capes this time of year, to replace moulting spring capes for next years trophy's

The collecting period for A1 summer Roe capes is only June to August as the hair starts to get loose again by late August.

Hunt out your local taxidermist and see if he might interested to buy good adult summer roe capes. Maybe worth it?? They might pay £15-20 each for good capes, but they must be fresh, ideally left with the skull antlers attached. If the supplier wants their trophy back it is best for the taxidermist to skin off the face.
 
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X 2 Just as Lakey said -" Hunt out a taxidermist and see if he might interested to buy good adult summer roe capes. Maybe worth it?? They might pay £15-20 each for good capes, but they must be fresh, ideally left with the skull antlers attached. If the supplier wants their trophy back it is best for the taxidermist to skin off the face."

I will pay £20.00 and the postage for top condition capes and return (if requested) the cleaned and whitened trophy. Field care guides sent out if requested, just get in touch with me. Bill.
 
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That sounds very interesting. I'll see how I get on with my early attempts and let you know if I'm up to the task Bill.
 
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