Tikka T3 experts please- small problem to resolve

western woodsman

Well-Known Member
I have a new Tikka T3 in .308. It shoots as it is supposed to with 1" groups with factory ammo. All fine excepting the front sling stud is not locked up and tightens firm past its proper position affecting the sling and keeps coming loose- at the wrong moment. It needs about 170 deg. of turn to lock on the other side. I do not want to do this if it will strip the sling stud or worse. Any thoughts? It is small but very annoying. I could just bond it in but may want to use a bipod in future.
 
don't think you need T3 experts for this one mate. have it re-filled and repositioned just above or below by a gunsmith, problem solved - this is a manufacturing issue and needs to be fixed before it works itself lose and causes damage to the stock, the barrel tip, the scope, you, someone else, etc. etc. ..also, for a bipod you'd be scre*ed.
 
Stud

Iwould just glue it into place if you want to attach a bipod at alater date you will put it on that stud so not a problem , hope that helps :lol:
 
Yes I thought it would be a gunsmithing issue, it is frustrating as the gun is new. But as I am due to go stalking the end of September and it is all sited in and feels good, it would be frustrating to send it back GMK who supplied originally. At least I know now and can act upon it. Thanks very much!
 
HI Logburner, Thanks for the idea, but I thought you would have to take the stud out to fix a bipod( I admit not knowing anything about them) and then refix another type of stud? Maybe not. Just resining in the stud would be the easiest, but seems a bit bogus for a new gun.
 
For now, make a shim washer to place under the stud. Aluminum from an aluminum can will work. Cut it carefully with a pair of scissors and put it in. Use two if needed. Hardly a job for a gunsmith.~Muir
 
You could always ask where you purchased the rifle, they may be able to supply you with a new stud etc. to fit yourself.

Free of charge of course!!

Atb, Buck.
 
I had the same on a T3 light is it the synthetic stock? The trouble with the synthetic is there is only one place to put the stud in the moulding and you can’t drill it out as there is no guts in the stock I ended up with the araldite fix is if you do make sure you smear a little Vaseline around the hole at is makes it easier to remove the seepage of the stud and stops the stock from getting marked
 
Thanks ash243, yes it is synthetic, looks like a repeat problem. I am glad I did not cock up the stud by trying to crank it in deeper! Only thing is, if I want to try or fix a bipod, do I have to leave the stud ready to remove?
 
Thanks Paul,

As per Ash243, it looks like resin bond it the way forward only do Harris bipods and the like need a new stud?(so therefore have to remove the old one) I am not inclined towards a bipod right now but do not want to rule it out.
 
when you take of the stock inside the moulding is the culprit there is no guts to re thread or even get a bigger stud into the stock i did look a bolt through stud but the thread and nut on the back would have fouled the barrel most is not all the Harris and copy Bipod fit into the swivel stud with two clips and a retaining bolt take my advice and glue the bugger in not like i did and forget it so you end up in Scotland with no tools and spend two days carrying the rifle because the stud finally gave way
 
Stud

:lol:Western Woodsman,the suggestion i made was because one or my rifles is a tikka and the harris bipod just fits on the stud,cheers:lol:
 
mine suffered the same problem when i used it so i got the type of stud that has a nut on in so now it goes through the stock and has a nut stopping it pulling through job done, has seen lots of service and never moved a bit
all the best
jimmy
 
Muir is on the money, stick a small washer or shim under it to get it to sit at exactly what ever angle you want. It never does any harm to locate them with a bit of thread lock.

Dave
 
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