Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Bluing or gun paints?

  1. #1

    Bluing or gun paints?

    Further to my thread about a new stock. I am thinking of either re-bluing my Tikka rifle or painting it with one of the paints by Duaracoat / Gun Kote etc. I am in the fortunate position where I should be able to get the rifle prepared , painted in our paint bays and the paint heat treated in an industrial oven if required. My questions are, have any of you used these products, how did they turn out, did you prep/spray the barrel and action as one?

    My other rifle is a Remmy 700sps, I am not sure but do they come with this type of finish? The reason I ask is mine doesnt appeared to be blued and looks like it has some kind of sprayed product on it which is very hard wearing on the barrel area.

    I am also thinking spraying some of my knives in this type of product as it looks excellent and will ease in cleaning and prevent rust. Picture shows what I mean.
    Last edited by chickenman; 17-09-2011 at 18:54. Reason: add pic

  2. #2
    I used 1500 degree resistant flat black enamel manifold paint on my 308 Brno about....oh....20 years ago. A bit has worn off at the muzzle and any scratches were repaired with a quick dusting of same. Prep the barrel well, degrease it, and go for it. I will be doing the same treatment to my 2nd hand HOWA 270 tomorrow. I hit the stock with olive-drab green enamel (flat) just minutes ago.~Muir

  3. #3
    Thanks for that Muir.Did you just do the barrel? or the action too?

  4. #4
    I just did the barrel but could have done the action with a bit of set up and prep. That enamel for manifolds is tough as nails.~Muir

  5. #5
    I love blued guns and would never have one in any other finish. However, I will also freely admit that blueing is probably the least durable and rust resistant of all of the widely used finishes.

    Properly applied, a paint/coat finish can provide good rust and scratch resistance and I have refinished several guns in this way that are still largely unaffected after more than seven years of hard use. The other great advantage is the availability of a wide range of colours and effects, limited only by your imagination.

    As Muir has explained, careful preparation is essential. My sequence goes like this:

    1. Degrease (I use a specialist degreaser made by Swarfega)
    2. Remove any existing bluing with De-Ox
    3. Rub down carefully with 600 grit wet and dry used with isopropyl alchohol - I think that this gives a good key for subsequent painting.
    4. Degrease again.
    5. Mask up anything that you don't want paint to stick to - I use a red (easy to see) latex paint applied with a small brush as it is easier to apply accurately, easier to remove and provides a degree of rust protection (remember that with every drop of oil/blueing removed, things can rust in hours).
    6. Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully as regards to priming and timing between coats. Where possible, spray but if you have to brush don't be tempted to over apply as too thick coats look awful. Unless the instructions say otherwise (such as for some epoxy based paints), allow plenty of time in a suitably warm environment between coats - when possible, I allow a couple of days between coats as I feel this gives a harder final surface.
    7. Check carefully and flat out any runs etc. with 600 wet and dry before the paint gets too hard. When finished, let the paint rest for a couple of weeks before any rough handling.

    I would always try to paint the barrel/action together rather than disassemble for all sorts of reasons. Make very sure that no overspray can get into places that you don't want it to as it can be very difficult to get out when set - blu tack can be good for temporarily bunging up. Also make sure that paint buildup won't be a problem with stock fit as that can be very bad for accuracy.

    I've used DuraCoat (good finish and durable), Gun Kote (struggled to get an even finish but has lasted well), and Tekaloid Coach Enamel (I was young and reckless and it actually survived better than I ever thought it would). It sounds like you have all the facilities necessary to do a great job, and if the worst comes to the worst, you can always clean it off and try again.

    The only point you may need to be aware of is our constant duty to maintain appropriate security for our guns, particularly if they are being sprayed or baked.

    Good luck.

  6. #6

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Muir View Post
    I just did the barrel but could have done the action with a bit of set up and prep. That enamel for manifolds is tough as nails.~Muir
    Muir, have you got pics you can share?

Similar Threads

  1. My New Gun......................
    By Dick darstardly in forum Deer Stalking General
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 30-11-2010, 17:03
  2. new gun
    By wagne in forum Rifles & Calibres
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-07-2010, 19:38
  3. Krylon Paints
    By Offroad Gary in forum Equipment & Accessories
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 27-09-2008, 22:08
  4. An assortment of gun and non gun related items
    By 325wsm in forum Deer Stalking Equipment
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 30-05-2008, 17:25
  5. How Much Gun?
    By Watermain in forum Rifles & Calibres
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 04-02-2007, 17:24

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts