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Thread: professional hot tank blueing

  1. #1

    professional hot tank blueing

    who does it in Scotland and what can I expect cost wise for a rifle barrel and action?
    its already stripped so that should speed it up and keep cost down

    I have search but can only find reference to Alex Dalgleish. Any others?

    thanks

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by bewsher500 View Post
    who does it in Scotland and what can I expect cost wise for a rifle barrel and action?
    its already stripped so that should speed it up and keep cost down

    I have search but can only find reference to Alex Dalgleish. Any others?

    thanks
    If I were in your position I'd give the guys at Border Barrels or Jackson Rifles a phonecall. As I understand it neither of those outfits blue in-house but certainly Border gets a lot of barrels done so they might put you on to the firm who does it.

  3. #3
    Stripping is easy polishing for a proper high gloss blacking like BSA and P-H used is another matter fot an example I polished the old blacking off this BSA Monarch and polished the barrel some more:-





    It looked fairly good but as you can see close up those turning/machining marks from profiling show and will show through the blacking. It has to be polished like chrome or glass. Bit like this:-






    Notice the turning marks did not come completely out on the barrel shank. He would have liked to take it further and get a better finish but then the danger of removing the stupidly etched proof marks rears it's ugly head. As it is on the receiver the BNP stamp has been lightened by the polishing.

  4. #4
    I can mirror polish, I have a polishing machine that I did some bike frames on. like a mirror.
    that is not the problem

    problem is the hot tank bit

    I have been quoted 65 with no real confirmation of finish
    this seems a lot to degrease and lightly polish something then chuck it in a tank for a few hours

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by bewsher500 View Post
    I can mirror polish, I have a polishing machine that I did some bike frames on. like a mirror.
    that is not the problem

    problem is the hot tank bit

    I have been quoted 65 with no real confirmation of finish
    this seems a lot to degrease and lightly polish something then chuck it in a tank for a few hours
    Then DIY! Finish is entirely down to prep, If you looked at brithunters turning marks you will see what I mean.
    He looks like he span it in a lathe for initial abrasive. (not the way to do it!)
    Lightly polish? Well obviously little idea of actually how long it takes to polish steel.
    If you know what you are doing run your own tanks, taking into account chemicals and fuel to run them.

  6. #6
    i don't even know where to start on chemicals let alone temps and volumes

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by bewsher500 View Post
    i don't even know where to start on chemicals let alone temps and volumes
    So 65 quid would not be a bad deal then!

  8. #8
    no, 65 plus 60 petrol to take it across the country seems a lot to drop something in a tank and watch it for a few hours!!

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by bewsher500 View Post
    no, 65 plus 60 petrol to take it across the country seems a lot to drop something in a tank and watch it for a few hours!!
    Honestly you will not equip yourself to be able to black a barrel and action for that money.
    I do my own blacking and have made the required tanks etc. so know the costs.
    You could, of course, get a tin of duplicolor and spray the parts black!

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by bewsher500 View Post
    I can mirror polish, I have a polishing machine that I did some bike frames on. like a mirror.
    that is not the problem

    problem is the hot tank bit

    I have been quoted 65 with no real confirmation of finish
    this seems a lot to degrease and lightly polish something then chuck it in a tank for a few hours
    Brownells will sell you a pamphlet on hot salt bluing and anything you need to get started.

    I have done some hot bluing. I worked with a fellow named Waymon Kendall who started his career working for Roy Weatherby in is California custom shop back int he 1960's. Waymon was the bluing master but I helped him with all the prep work. In his shop there was no power buffing, and I know why. Many rifles have been ruined esthetically buy some heavy handed fool running the metal work over a power buffer. The sharp edges and stampings get rounded and screw holed get wallowed. Waymon hand polished actions with various grades of cloth abrasive mounted on appropriate backings; flats for flats, loose for curves. It would take him the better part of a day to do most of the polish on a bolt action rifle. When polished to smooth metal (gloss isn't always desirable: I hate it) he would often run the works lightly over a powered wire wheel that had .005" wires. It put a soft burnish on the metal that made the bluing look ten miles deep. His salts came from Brownells tho there are some recipes around for custom salts. I have several in my files should you go that route.

    One thig about bluing is that you need to pretty much have an outbuilding to do it in. Three tanks is about the norm (water, cleaner/degreaser like Oakite, then the salts), with burners and ventilation. Prep and bluing is best done in different rooms as bluing salts will corrode metal in the room. Bluing tanks will eventually be eaten away from the salts and will need replacing. Salts run at 390F degrees so it's dangerous. You will get spotty burns no matter how hard you try to avoid it.

    Have you ever thought of rust bluing?? It takes longer and has some pitfalls, but you can do it in about anythere with less equipment.~Muir

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