Brownells will sell you a pamphlet on hot salt bluing and anything you need to get started.
I have done some hot bluing. I worked with a fellow named Waymon Kendall who started his career working for Roy Weatherby in is California custom shop back int he 1960's. Waymon was the bluing master but I helped him with all the prep work. In his shop there was no power buffing, and I know why. Many rifles have been ruined esthetically buy some heavy handed fool running the metal work over a power buffer. The sharp edges and stampings get rounded and screw holed get wallowed. Waymon hand polished actions with various grades of cloth abrasive mounted on appropriate backings; flats for flats, loose for curves. It would take him the better part of a day to do most of the polish on a bolt action rifle. When polished to smooth metal (gloss isn't always desirable: I hate it) he would often run the works lightly over a powered wire wheel that had .005" wires. It put a soft burnish on the metal that made the bluing look ten miles deep. His salts came from Brownells tho there are some recipes around for custom salts. I have several in my files should you go that route.
One thig about bluing is that you need to pretty much have an outbuilding to do it in. Three tanks is about the norm (water, cleaner/degreaser like Oakite, then the salts), with burners and ventilation. Prep and bluing is best done in different rooms as bluing salts will corrode metal in the room. Bluing tanks will eventually be eaten away from the salts and will need replacing. Salts run at 390F degrees so it's dangerous. You will get spotty burns no matter how hard you try to avoid it.
Have you ever thought of rust bluing?? It takes longer and has some pitfalls, but you can do it in about anythere with less equipment.~Muir