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Thread: Over Sized Bolt Knob Tutorial

  1. #1

    Over Sized Bolt Knob Tutorial

    As I have decided to put an over size bolt knob on my Remmy 700 foxing rifle I thought I would post a few pictures of how to do this as I know a few of you may want to do this? This method is a much better method than 'chopping off 'the original bolt knob and the drilling abd brazing a threaded stud into the bolt handle as much stronger.

    The first thing to do is grind one side off the original bolt, I use my knife grinding machine but an upturned belt sander in a vice will be ok, just remember to try and keep the ground surface flat as this will help you later and to keep COOLING the hot metal in water as you dont want to soften the area you are grinding. As the belts will be 'eaten' by the bolt you could use a grinding disc to take the lions share of the metal stock off the bolt and finish with the belt, I used 40 grit but anything below 120 will surfice.

    Next once side one is flat you want to do the same to side two

    Then mark a right angle from the side of the bolt, this will be the mark you will be threading up to and dont want to go beyond and is your point of reference.

    After this is done measure the width of the bolt and find the centre and mark.

    Now colour the shiny ground surface you have take the stock from and mark two lines taken from the edges of the bolt handle sides, they dont have to be super accurate it just to show you where your grinding to.

    The next stage is to measure the thread size on your bolt know. So if the thead is say 6 mm you dont want to go any smaller than 8mm. This will then leave you with a square section of metal at the end of the bolt which is the old bolt knob which you ground away. Note that I made the mistake of attempting to round that section of metal then realised it needed to be square. The reason for this is when you are using the tap and die to thread the section it will need to be completely square as the threads you will be cutting will 'follow' this perfectly and so the bolt knob will screw onto the bolt straight and square, if it isnt the threads will 'wander'. This is important and I will need to square the bolt in the picture to do this. There is still enough 'stock' there to achieve this and so will post another picture when all is complete.

    Ok thats it for now and I will post more pics when the job is done...hope that helps if your going to attempt this job..

    Last edited by chickenman; 27-01-2012 at 10:29.

  2. #2
    As the handle is only brazed or soldered onto the body tube why not replace the whole thing?

    probably quicker and easier.

  3. #3
    Hi Brit.

    It only took me 15 mins to grind the stock off with my linisher,will take say 20 mins to prep for the tap n die then 10 mins too thread. I see you say to replace the 'whole thing' but not quite sure what you mean? This way is imho by far the best way as it is an extremely strong and robust way, as I said in the thread I coud have easily taken a hacksaw to the bolt and put a threaded stud in it, but if a jobs worth doing ....a phrase I got beaten into me as an apprentice. ...

    The bit of kit I use to remove stock is pictured, 2.5 hp of 36 inch of ceramic belt ate through the surplus stock on the bolt no probs..
    Last edited by chickenman; 31-01-2012 at 22:13.

  4. #4
    I say the whole thing a Remington bolts are made up of bit of tube etc brazed and soldered together. Most decent gunshops in US I understand have the jigs for soldering/brazing the bolt handles on these as it's not that uncommon for them to come adrift. So with a bit of heat the whole handle comes off the tube and you just affix the type you want. Check out the Brownells site as I am sure you find a range of replacement handles for them.

  5. #5
    That seems an awful lot more work to me brit and I have to admit I have not seen any 'complete handle and knob' replacements for sale, I would be intested to see them if you can possibly send me a link. ATBPete

  6. #6
    Distinguished Member Ronin's Avatar
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    Oct 2014
    Lancs / Cumbria Border
    The 700 bolt handle is indeed brazed on, ive replaced a few over the years and have the correct jig to replace a handle thats come adrift or damaged.

    They tend to damage on the primary cam more than the brazing fail.

    I know of only one that ive had in my hands where the owner shot a 300 WM load using varget instead of whatever powder they were supposed to be using and it ended up in a mallet having to be used to open the bolt - hence the damage..

    Returning to the original post - nice idea, but unless youre grinding the new knob down - effectievly making one offs.

    I dont think you could use this method to fit Holland / Badger replacement R 700 bolt knobs and fit them accurately enough so there is no obvious misalignment at the shoulder join.

    By the way, I am not saying the way ive been shown is better than your way as you obviously have skilled hands, however, for repeatability, im not convinced...

    Personally, I use a jig in a lathe and turn the bolt handle down to the correct size (either 1/4 x 28 tpi or M8x1mm) usually....for Badger / Holland replacements.

    Last edited by Ronin; 01-02-2012 at 20:40.

  7. #7
    Hi Redmist

    I agree totally with what your saying. But 'Joe Bloggs' on here wont be needing to repeat the job as it would be a one off for their own rifle, hence why I shown the method as above. What must be rememebered is very few on this forum will have access to either a lathe ( even then with enough clearance for the bolt length) and even then they would need to either be very skilled or be able to make a jig as you have pictured. Even if the method of replacing the whole handle is used you must first source a handle and knob that you like (as opposed to threading an original handle and being able to chose from hundreds of designs available which can be screwed onto the thread) and also be extremley confident when brazing as to get the bolt handle set up correctly or have a jig to do this and also be confident enough to be able to braze and not heat the bolt so much as to alter its hardness.

    The other prefered method which badger themselves advocate is with a CNC milling machine,once again not many folk have access to one. I have to say I like the jig you have use in the lathe, very inventive. As for repeatabiltiy, yes I agree, hence why I am getting an engineer mate to thread the bolt for me, but as with all things practice makes perfect, that I know from my knife making where I can repeat extact angle grinds again and again with no fancy equipment as such.



    As I said in my original post, I actually made an error in rounding off the stock on the bolt tip, it woulkd have been far easier to leave it square, I wish I had as it would have been alot clearer to see that the thread would be central and sqaure.
    Last edited by chickenman; 02-02-2012 at 00:02.

  8. #8
    In the book:-

    The NRA Gunsmithing Guide

    It shows how to make a simple jig for holding and aligning bolt handles for brazing and welding.. I would look it out for you but due to it's dangerous contents it's still in Police custody.

  9. #9
    Brownells do a range of handles:

    Brownells Search : Rifle Parts : Bolt Parts : Bolt & Charging Handles - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

    and they still do the jig:

    BOLT WELDING JIG - Brownells

    but compared to their jig ad in my Ralph T. Walker book of the 70's, it's gone up a bit from $9.95.


  10. #10
    Ok here as promised is the end result, I have to say I am very pleased with it. It looks good and hell hasnt it made a difference to the stiff n sticky bolt that was there originally! I have include a picture of the threading job. Remmebr this can all be achieved with simple hand tools, so no need for a lathe if you dont have access to one nor having to pay for someone to do the job for you.
    Last edited by chickenman; 04-02-2012 at 10:09.

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