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Thread: Shoe polish

  1. #1

    Shoe polish

    I got this tip from mike norris, instead of using oil on your gun barrels rub kiwi shoe polish on (neutral) and then buff it up with a cloth, this leaves your barrel clean and will repel water but wont let dirt/dust stick to your barrel like oil would.

  2. #2
    Interesting, will give it a try.

  3. #3
    I often use shoe polish on my forged work if it is going inside. All the shoe polish colours work well, if your gun bluing is bad it could help smarten that up if you used black polish. I use a home made version of Rennaissance wax which is a microcrystalline/polythene wax blend for clear finishing, it has quite a high melting point so central heating or strong sun does not make it sticky like the bees wax based finishes.
    Last edited by Alantoo; 07-02-2012 at 12:37. Reason: removed spurious return

  4. #4
    Never used as external barrel finish - but sounds a good idea. Especially as it works brilliantly as a release agent when bedding actions.
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  5. #5
    Sounds like a good idea. I usually coat the underside of my rifle ( the bit that sits in the stock) with vaseline which saves stripping it down every day if stalking for the week in the highlands but the polish might be a better idea, thanks.

  6. #6
    I was having a tidy up in the gun cabinet yesterday and did all of mine, shotgun barrels came up a treat.

    A clever man knows his strengths, a wise man knows his weaknesses

  7. #7
    Going to give this a go on the weekend, thanks for the tip!

  8. #8
    Time to buy shares in Kiwi, if this thread's anything to go by?

    Does sound like an idea though, thanks!

  9. #9
    I havent found anywhere selling it yet !!!

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by tika.308 View Post
    I havent found anywhere selling it yet !!!
    Any hard wax would/should do the job.

    My father always protected his saw bench, planer tables, the soles of his handplanes and blades of his handsaws by rubbing them over with candles (paraffin) wax. Side of a household candle covers a big area fast.

    If you want to add or restore colour any of the rare earth pigments could be added. To soften the wax to add colour or obtain a brushable consistency you can melt it (double saucepan or rayburn) and mix in some white spirit.

    As I mentioned in my earlier post the best clear wax is Rennaisance wax which was developed for/by the British Museum to protect their collection, (google it). Very expensive to buy retail which is why I make my own, does go a long way though.

    I often add flake graphite to give an iron-y look when burnished, you could collect pencil lead dust for this.

    Main thing to avoid is organic compounds in the wax which can break down and cause corrosion. Having said that the medieval door hinges and other ironwork were always treated with bees wax and that did more preserving than damage.

    HTH, Alan

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