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Thread: Help with browning x bolt

  1. #1

    Help with browning x bolt

    Hi does any body know how to strip the wood stock off a browning x bolt
    thanks DJC

  2. #2
    I haven't worked on an Xbolt but until someone who is more familiar comes along, I seem to remember that for the Abolt, you had to remove a screw in the fore-end and rearmost screw in the trigger guard. I've noticed that the Browning actions can be very tight in the stock so it may require some pressure if it is the first time it has been removed.

    May I ask why you want to take it off?

    Knots

  3. #3

    gun stock

    Quote Originally Posted by Knottaclu View Post
    I haven't worked on an Xbolt but until someone who is more familiar comes along, I seem to remember that for the Abolt, you had to remove a screw in the fore-end and rearmost screw in the trigger guard. I've noticed that the Browning actions can be very tight in the stock so it may require some pressure if it is the first time it has been removed.

    May I ask why you want to take it off?

    Knots
    I am having it striped and re done with oil finish as it marks very easy being lacuared or would you recommend some thing else

  4. #4
    Remove the two Allen bolts from the bottom metal (plastic) and the action lifts out.
    But it is a tight fit, you will need to wriggle it up and down gently to free it from the bedding round the recoil lug.

    Neil.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by DJC View Post
    I am having it striped and re done with oil finish as it marks very easy being lacuared or would you recommend some thing else
    Sorry for not replying sooner after having asked the question but I somehow overlooked the thread. The reason I asked was because I have come across some people who were routinely removing the action 'to clean it properly' after every use with the expected consequences for POI.

    Stock finish is a very personal thing and I would always suggest looking at guns with the finish you are thinking of. 'Marks' are affected by the 'glossiness' of the finish, its hardness, and the hardness of the stock wood - choosing a finish that is harder in itself and hardens the surface of the wood will help with impact marks, while scuffs are less visible on a low gloss finish.

    Of the oil finishes, examples include linseed which is low gloss, relatively easy to apply and very traditional but has limited resistance to scratches or water, whilst pure tung (preferably polymerised) offers the best water resistance and scratch resistance of any oil but can be difficult to apply succesfully and often results in a high gloss surface without further work. Varnishes (of which lacquer is one) offer greater water and scratch resistance but create a more noticeable surface film which reduces the reflectiveness of the wood and can dull the appearance of the stock.

    I personally prefer an oil finish and accept that I have to take more care of the stock, but you may feel differently. To overcome some of the disadvantages of an oil finish, I'm experimenting with initially impregnating the stock with ultra low viscosity expoxy resin to provide moisture stability and surface hardness before oil finishing, but it's early days yet.

    Knots

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