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Thread: Loc-tite and idiots.

  1. #1

    Loc-tite and idiots.

    I strolled into the local trading post today and they were fussing over a Model 70 Winchester in 243 that they couldn't get apart. The rear action screw slot was completely washed out but the middle and front screw had come out easily. The rifle was filthy and the barrel finish worn but the mechanicals were good along with the bore so I offered to buy it, stuck screw and all. I got it for a ridiculously low price and took it home.

    Once home, I took a small diameter Dremel tool abrasive disk to the screw slot and gave it a hard twist with a good screwdriver. Nothing. I made the slot a little deeper and gave it a blood-vessel bursting twist. It came loose, slowly, and finally was removed. Believe it or not, some fool had covered the threads with industrial grade lock-tite. My incredulity at such an act was only tempered by the fact that the guy (gratefully) didn't put it on all three screws!

    I will order a new screw tomorrow tho this one will work. Previous "efforts" to remove the screw galled up the triggerguard pretty well but I'll file that out and enamel it. My baby girl snarfed up my old Model 70 243 a couple of years ago. I'm hoping this one is near as accurate.~Muir

  2. #2
    Hey Muir how many rifles do you buy on average every time you go to town?

    Is there ever a time when you have gone into town and not bought a new (or old) rifle.
    It's the calibre of the shooter that counts not the calibre of the rifle.

  3. #3
    Im sure your get it back looking nice. I really like the mod 70 rifle actions. My 1st centrefire was a model 70 stealth varmint.

    The older one two with the heavy but superb h&s stock on it. I think the newer stealth 2 had a b&c stock fitted to them.
    very underated rifles I think over here. Over looked by the Remington 700


    With homeloaded ammo and a jewel trigger I had fitted into it. It was a very accurate rifle indeed.
    Last edited by jay 22; 28-03-2012 at 07:30.

  4. #4
    Come on then why dont you annoy us over here and tell us the price!
    Loctite, from what i understand to remove a screw that has been sealed with Loctite you place the screwdriver in place and heat it up, this melts the seal and it can be removed, but of course there are a lot of different strengths of Loctite so i'm not entirely sure that method works on all.
    Cheers
    Richard

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by devon deer stalker View Post
    Loctite, from what i understand to remove a screw that has been sealed with Loctite you place the screwdriver in place and heat it up, this melts the seal and it can be removed, but of course there are a lot of different strengths of Loctite so i'm not entirely sure that method works on all.
    It does work on all but the problem (in relation to a wooden or plastic stock) is the temperature required - even heating through a screwdriver, there is bleeding of the heat into surrounding material. As a rule of thumb, you've got to get beyond 120C before there is any drop off in strength on most of the widely used loctites and for some, raising the temperature from about 80C to 120C actually increases the strength by up to 50%!

  6. #6
    The problem was that the screw slot was completely stripped away so that the screwdriver couldn't bite anymore. I think Loc Tite should be left to machinery. I have never used Loc Tite on firearms. I paid $250 for the rifle and scope.

    8x57: It goes in spurts. I go to town to buy groceries, figure I could lose some weight, and come home with some old beater gun instead. Tired old guns always seem to find their way to my gunroom. JAYB will have something to say on the subject. He stayed with me for a month and I think I bought a rifle a week while he was here. I never buy anything fancy tho. In truth, you guys can spend more on a single scope than I spend on a small handful of rifles.~Muir

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Knottaclu View Post
    It does work on all but the problem (in relation to a wooden or plastic stock) is the temperature required - even heating through a screwdriver, there is bleeding of the heat into surrounding material. As a rule of thumb, you've got to get beyond 120C before there is any drop off in strength on most of the widely used loctites and for some, raising the temperature from about 80C to 120C actually increases the strength by up to 50%!
    Yep - the 'worst' is Loctite 648, which is sometimes referred to as 'green welding'. It has to be heated to a silly temp before it breaks down.

  8. #8
    I use loctite 243 on the rings and bases of my rifles. However, these are all allen bolts, so easier to apply more force than a screwdriver.

    I've undone them to swap scopes with no problems. I've never needed to heat them up.

    Using loctite was reccomended to be my a well respected British riflesmith.

    Cheers,

    Bob

  9. #9
    I use red and blue lok tite (numbers have worn off the bottles) for scope bases and rings and have never found it difficult to remove the srews using either a blade driver, std allen key or torx key. I believe there are different grades of lok tite and some are more ameniable to these applications than others.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Mountainstalker View Post
    I use red and blue lok tite (numbers have worn off the bottles) for scope bases and rings and have never found it difficult to remove the srews using either a blade driver, std allen key or torx key. I believe there are different grades of lok tite and some are more ameniable to these applications than others.
    Yep - red, blue and purple are all 'removable' grades - it's the green ones which take a bit more shifting.

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