Chainsaw milling attachment

Tamus

Well-Known Member
OK, I know it's not really stalking related but it is timber related so maybe some people on here can help/advise... Please?

Anyone seen one of these before? ... or similar

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=y8GxK5GO2eM#!

I'm looking for a supplier of this sort of kit here in Scotland, does anyone know of such a supplier?

And thanks, yes I do know about the people retailing them in both Devon and Hants.
 
very neat
any decent engineer could knock up a jig based on that clip

cant see it being pricey, simple bits.
bet you could do it yourself with some scaffold tube, a welder and some nuts and bolts.

Actually I will make you one for you! £200!
 
You can buy them here cheaper than £200 alaskan mill I home of the portable chainsaw mill


I have the 36"mill and it's great! You need a big saw to do it properly and ripping chains.

Speak to Rob he will sort you out.

I was hoping for a more local supplier, but I do know about Silver Street Garden Machinery in Hants and I will use them if that's the only option.... all 423 miles away... Thanks for the product recommendation though... It looks like just-the-business and better than other variations on the same theme that I've seen in the past, both online and in the ... metal :D

Interesting price point Ed, £200, but I can have the genuine article for just about exactly that sort of money, as I'm sure you've realised :D

howa243, I've seen the Logosol too but to be honest it's outwith my budget (by a factor of around 10+) and is way more than my current spec requirements. Not that I wouldn't ever consider one if I needed to get through real volumes of timber quickly but I only mill the occasional tree and even they are only for home use, but I'm getting grief from the younger generation over the lack of precision when I do it freehand, so I figure I need something to help improve my product quality/consistency.
 
Tamus , ive used a similar set-up but cutting Oak and Elm , bloody hard going for
the saw and operator , the chain has to be perfect or you and up with helleva shapes
Ive also used a mobile sawmill they are good , i would say they make a better job
than the bandmill i operated for ten years
 
I know Willie at logosol and Rob at alaskan, both good guys, Rob does good deals on chainsaw bars too..
 
I know Willie at logosol and Rob at alaskan, both good guys, Rob does good deals on chainsaw bars too..

I've been asking around elsewhere too and it looks like Rob's indeed the man.

With only a 3.8Kw output Husky motor... at max I can really only go to about a 28" bar with probably the 30" mill setup... plus a ripping chain too, like deer man pointed out. But which chain? ... Oregon's ripper or Granberg's? ... Never bought anything other than general purpose chains before and always happy enough with Oregon, then again... Granberg is the specialist... or is their chain really just a client ordered and brand stamped product from... Oregon... :eek: ... Too many options.

Anyhow, pre-guessing Rob's recommendations.. going with all the above should give me a 20"-22" wide board making capability and that'll work just fine with the trees I've got in mind.... Larch, Norway Spruce, Scots Pine, Thuja (W.R.C.) Ash, Birch, Cherry, Elm, Rowan and Sycamore...but No Oak :D I love things made of Oak but I don't have any Oak trees, thank goodness, as I really don't fancy trying to chew my way through any of those with just my wee Husky.
 
Take a look at Robs website. It has lots of usefull information. If I were buying dedicated ripping chains I would spend a little more and get the grandberg. If you have a grinder you can grind the cutters to 10 degree. This will save you some money but is not ideal. Go for the 36" Alaskan as you can mill smaller bits than 36". You can get a couple of inches extra if you take the dogs of the saw. You can also get longer bars and rails if you want to extend the mill for big trees. You might also want to consider the mini mill as this will allow you to square the edges without turning the log wich is very handy!
 
Take a look at Robs website. It has lots of usefull information. If I were buying dedicated ripping chains I would spend a little more and get the grandberg. If you have a grinder you can grind the cutters to 10 degree. This will save you some money but is not ideal. Go for the 36" Alaskan as you can mill smaller bits than 36". You can get a couple of inches extra if you take the dogs of the saw. You can also get longer bars and rails if you want to extend the mill for big trees. You might also want to consider the mini mill as this will allow you to square the edges without turning the log wich is very handy!

Excellent input... thanks.

I was swithering on the 36" anyway, it's only a tenner more and sure as fate if things work out I'll just go and get a heavier motor anyway... maybe a Stihl MS660... but that's for another day.
 
Hi Tamus i have used a home made jig and a big chainsaw to cut oak planks, it worked quiet well but was a two man job, and bloody hard work, i think it is an interesting thing to do but when you consider the waste caused by the thickness of the blade, it would probably be cheaper to find a local man with a portable wood miser to do the job for you, as the waste is minimal.
 
Hi Tamus i have used a home made jig and a big chainsaw to cut oak planks, it worked quiet well but was a two man job, and bloody hard work, i think it is an interesting thing to do but when you consider the waste caused by the thickness of the blade, it would probably be cheaper to find a local man with a portable wood miser to do the job for you, as the waste is minimal.

Probably very wise words Geoffrey. So, why did you not do it? :confused:
 
The waste is minimal, an Alaskan can be set up where a woodmizer or Lucas mill can't. Rob D has lots of videos on his site.
 
The waste is minimal, an Alaskan can be set up where a woodmizer or Lucas mill can't. Rob D has lots of videos on his site.

Your photos show just the same sort of work environment as I'd be using one in and although I don't have Oak, I would be making a variety of planks and some heavy beams just like you showed us. Thanks for the pics, by the way.

The thing is, we have narrow kerf saws, ie band saws, bench and sliding table saws, in the workshop. So, the only likely "excessive waste" for us would be on the few cuts it takes to get the timber down to "manageable" dimensions. I think/hope the sheer convenience and low cost of using chainsaw milling attachments will pretty much compensate for any extra waste in the woods.

I'll be in touch with Mr Dyer later today.
 
Rob uses the ladder with index bolts and an impact screwdriver. He drills the ladder which I don't like. You would find it cheaper to sacrafice a ladder than pay £180 for a rail set! It does allow you to level on both planes though!
 
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