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Thread: Custom stalking knife build along

  1. #1

    Custom stalking knife build along

    This may be of interest. I hope it may work this way.

    I have just taken delivery of the first two of a batch of stalking knives designed by a full time stalker and myself from RWL 34, a great British steel.

    I myself use one of these and there about 7 or 8 knocking about, one owned and loved by Patrick Smith of Kifaru, used to do his moose from start to finish this season.

    Here are the blades:



    Here is mine, in stabilised Chestnut burr





    and some others:

    Buckeye with scandi burr (I have darker figuring wood in stock)



    Spalted beech:



    Green dyed curly birch



    Tufnol



    The plan is: I start from here. The buyer gets to choose brass or stainless hard ware, the material of the handle - you get to see actual pics of the stabilised wood to choose - the stabilisation replaces all the moisture and air space in the wood with acrylic to ensure it is impervious. Or, of course you can have G10 (comes in blue, orange, all those colours you can't miss) or micarta.

    Once the knife is done I plan that it will arrive with a leather AND a kydex sheath for you to flip between. You again get a say in the design of the leather sheath, but sadly, kydex is pretty much kydex to an extent.

    The buyer gets regular photo updates to watch it being built and it arrives RMSD at the end, once the buyer is happy to make payment after seeing photos along the way.

    For this I would like 225 which includes RMSD at the end, but not any paypal fees. I will ensure it is sharp enough to shave with (anyone who has come across mine will tell you it's hair popping) and I would like 50 deposit which will be refunded should I fail to deliver to your satisfaction, but please don't expect this to be a quick job, I make sure it's as good as I can make it.

    More than happy to chat about any aspect of this and I hope this will allow this to be a personal knife for life, and hopefully an heirloom for whoever decides on every step of the process.

    Thanks for looking

    Richard

  2. #2

  3. #3
    Dougster

    Just roughly how long is the build time for the knife?

    I use a knife that has a blade made of ATS-34 steel. I know very little about steel except for what I have read. I know that ATS-34 is a hard steelthatbholds it's edge we'll but is a bit of a bugger to sharpen. How does the steel in these blades compare for edge retention and sharpening? Many thanks.

  4. #4

  5. #5
    Declared interest - Dougster a personal friend and makes/ supplies stuff to us.

    I have one of the early knives in this range and ( at risk of perceived hype ) it's a fantastic tool. It is one of those things that looks right and just gets better with use. For all knife nuts tend to chop and change and trade, very few of these ever leave the original owner.

    Dougster will bend over backwards ( partly 'cos of the weight of his nose ) to leave you one very happy customer.

    I'll leave sharpening details to the expert - but its a doddle.
    Stalking, Courses, Gear - Moray Outfiiting Website here - Welcome
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  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by jamross65 View Post
    Dougster

    Just roughly how long is the build time for the knife?

    I use a knife that has a blade made of ATS-34 steel. I know very little about steel except for what I have read. I know that ATS-34 is a hard steelthatbholds it's edge we'll but is a bit of a bugger to sharpen. How does the steel in these blades compare for edge retention and sharpening? Many thanks.
    Sorry, out knackering the dogs out now it's cooled down.

    It's the truth that these are harder to sharpen than 01 tool steel, and probably harder than your average 440 tool stainless.

    That said I do mine little and often. I will start a sales thread on sharpening strops with metal polish paste on and maybe do a thread or video on sharpening but they are relatively easy to maintain and I will throw in a deal on sharpening for those that buy them.

    Little and often is the best, quick touch up each time they are used and they should be great each time. That said I am anally retentive about the fact that mine must make a bit of my arm bald before they come out to play,.

    RWL is better than ATS and the heat treat these have had is second to none, they are done for me by Duncan of Dorset woodland blades, we have been developing these for a few years. The down side is the lead time on heat treat so the batches are not that frequent.

    Hope this helps.

    Edit - sorry. I am anticipating about a month to get this out, at the outside.
    Last edited by Dougster; 25-05-2012 at 21:11.

  7. #7
    Pm sent

    Any chance these can be custom stamped in some way, or run a limited addition for sd members?

    Cheers

  8. #8
    Hello Dougster, can you give the dimensions of the knife ie blade length ,overall length, cost of blade alone,comparison to other steel types,edge holding ability,grinds etc.

  9. #9
    Great looking knife, but not for me I'm afraid as I manage to loose at least one knife every season.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Jimbob View Post
    Pm sent

    Any chance these can be custom stamped in some way, or run a limited addition for sd members?

    Cheers
    I don't have the chance of laser etching these, but I will look into having them done in future.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hunterjohnb View Post
    Hello Dougster, can you give the dimensions of the knife ie blade length ,overall length, cost of blade alone,comparison to other steel types,edge holding ability,grinds etc.
    The knife is: Blade 4 1/4 inch or 110mm, handle just shy of 5 inch or 120mm so 230 and 9inch overall. Cut from 4mm stock in a full flat grind with 15 degree secondary grind (which I normally convex on mine) and easily maintained on a Spyderco sharpmaker. It's 30mm deep (top to bottom) at the deepest part tapering down with a drop point.

    In comparison to other steels it's hard to say, it holds a great edge and is stainless - but that word must be taken literally with all cutlery . STAIN LESS, not stain free. They are by no means difficult to sharpen once you get the technique, but they do hold their edge a long time. The steel and the geometry mean that the quick wizz past of the sharpener after each use should see them back to their best.

    Quote Originally Posted by bogtrotter View Post
    Great looking knife, but not for me I'm afraid as I manage to loose at least one knife every season.
    I have managed to lose a knife too and each to their own, thanks for the kind words about it.
    Last edited by Dougster; 26-05-2012 at 07:31. Reason: ....spelling, and me a teacher......

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