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Thread: Biofuel in a HC Common rail engine

  1. #1

    Biofuel in a HC Common rail engine

    Is there any great mechanical minds on here that can tell me whether it is safe to use Biofuel in my Isuzu pick up which I have had from new on an 07 plate and has a common rail engine?

    There is a company near me that is producing biofuel at 1.20ltr and they are adamant that it will be ok in a common rail engine. However I have heard varying opinions on this and wondered if there are any petrol heads or in this case diesel heads that are more to the wise and work in the industry that can confirm it is safe to use in such an engine.

    I have searched the web for this but it appears to be differing opinions.

    Thanks
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  2. #2
    we had a guy producing it on the farm from waste chip fat ,and it looked very good quality filtered and additives used .
    whilst it was ok in my bosses old landy it did not go well in another guys toyota rav 4 and wrecked his fuel pump .if i ran an old banger then i would give it a go but not in an advanced modern engine just my view you pays your money be prepared to take your chances .
    good luck
    norma
    Last edited by norma 308; 11-06-2012 at 17:07.

  3. #3
    There is an expert on this fuel on the site....

    Limulus....

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by sikamalc View Post
    Is there any great mechanical minds on here that can tell me whether it is safe to use Biofuel in my Isuzu pick up which I have had from new on an 07 plate and has a common rail engine?

    There is a company near me that is producing biofuel at 1.20ltr and they are adamant that it will be ok in a common rail engine. However I have heard varying opinions on this and wondered if there are any petrol heads or in this case diesel heads that are more to the wise and work in the industry that can confirm it is safe to use in such an engine.

    I have searched the web for this but it appears to be differing opinions.

    Thanks
    it depends on how thick its been made as it can wreck the pump,also at 1.20 per L its too expensive,unless they will guarantee there product dont touch it

  5. #5
    i dont like the idea of used fat you never get rid of the moisture content out of the fat this is why it wrecks pumps and filters use only new oil i would be happy running modern motors as a 50/50 mix or troubles start in winter when cold if neat oil is being used.bio can be used without hassles as far as i am aware,atb wayne
    2. Straight vegetable oil

    Straight vegetable oil fuel (SVO) systems can be a clean, effective and economical option.

    Unlike biodiesel, which runs in any diesel without modification, you have to modify the engine to use SVO. The best way is to fit a professional single-tank SVO system with replacement injectors and glowplugs optimised for vegetable oil, as well as fuel heating. With the Elsbett single-tank SVO system you can use petro-diesel, biodiesel or SVO, in any combination. Just start up and go, stop and switch off, like any other car. Journey to Forever's Toyota TownAce van has an Elsbett single-tank SVO system.

    There are also two-tank SVO systems which pre-heat the oil to make it thinner. You have to start the engine on ordinary petro-diesel (or biodiesel) in one tank and then switch to SVO in the other tank when the veg-oil is hot enough (i.e. thin enough), and switch back again to the petro-diesel tank before you stop the engine, or you'll coke up the injectors.

    Much more information on straight vegetable oil systems here.

    3. Biodiesel or SVO?

    Biodiesel has some clear advantages over SVO:

    • It works in any diesel, without any conversion or modifications to the engine or the fuel system -- just put it in and go.
    • It also has better cold-weather properties than SVO (but not as good as petro-diesel -- see Using biodiesel in winter).
    • Unlike SVO, it's backed by many long-term tests in many countries, including millions of miles on the road.

    Biodiesel is a clean, safe, ready-to-use, alternative fuel, whereas it's fair to say that many SVO systems are still experimental and need further development.

    On the other hand, biodiesel can be more expensive, depending on how much you make, what you make it from and whether you're comparing it with new oil or used oil. And unlike SVO, it has to be processed first.

    But the large and rapidly growing worldwide band of biodiesel homebrewers don't mind that -- they make a supply every week or once a month and they soon get used to it. Many have been doing it for years.

    Anyway you have to process SVO too, especially WVO (waste vegetable oil, also called UCO, used cooking oil), which many people with SVO systems use because it's cheap or free for the taking. With WVO, food particles and impurities and water must be removed, and it probably should be deacidified too.

    Biodieselers say, "If I'm going to have to do all that I might as well make biodiesel instead." But SVO types scoff at that -- it's much less processing than making biodiesel, they say.

    To each his own.


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  6. #6
    If its made properly there is no reason why you shouldnt use in ANY diesel vehicle.

    There are two quick tests you can do check if the Biofuel is good quality.

    1: 45/5 test. Take 5ml of the fual and add it to 45 ml of pure methanol (the manufacturer should supply you with this or even show you the test) give it a mix then see if there is any drop out. This tests for full esterification of the waste veg oil.
    2: Water test. add 50ml of biofuel to 50ml of pure water and give it a good mix. Allow it to settle. It should separate out within 15minutes with only a slight milky interface between the two layers if any.
    Below is a link to my website.
    Quad sticks

  7. #7
    Listen to the advice from the main dealer, fraught with problems in some motors, no problems in others?
    Pumps, seals and filters probably most at risk.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by old man View Post
    Listen to the advice from the main dealer, fraught with problems in some motors, no problems in others?
    Pumps, seals and filters probably most at risk.
    Actually, I would listen to the scientist above who can make the stuff and has no profit to gain by providing an impartial opinion.

  9. #9
    I make quite a bit of biofuel for my own use.
    Older vehicles can have problems with the hoses as they had a high rubber content in days gone by but now they are fine. Same goes for the seals. The only time you have a problem with a filter is when you first switch over to 100% biofuel and your fuel filter blcosk up with all the crap out of you fuel tank which has built up from the diesel. One filter change then thats it.
    Biofuel has slight solvent effect as its a methyl ester, it'll smell a bit like paint! This does lead to it releasing crap built up from diesel and causing early perishing of rubber based hoses/seals.
    Only other thing to consider is having to perform more regular oil changes as some of the products of combustion cause quicker breakdown of engine oil.
    Most vehicles run quieter on bio as it has a higher calorific value than diesel but you do lose about 5% power. With winteriser added its fine down to -10. I ran my L200 up to Inverness and back the winter before last when we saw temps down to -16 and never had a problem (I added 5% petrol to the tank)
    Below is a link to my website.
    Quad sticks

  10. #10
    Not intending to knock the science, but surely the manufacturer will know of the situation of the seals etc?

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