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Thread: BSA CF2 stock question

  1. #1

    BSA CF2 stock question

    right, so I'm trying to work out a stock issue on the CF2. When I tighten the action screws bit by bit front and rear so not to over 'do' any of them individually or excessively, the barrel eventually comes down snugly into the front raised bedding tip of the stock. This is a fully fit, non-floated barrel with front pressure point.

    however, after spraying shots everywhere I decided to give the front action screw a bit of release (note it was NOT overly tight originally, just snug), the barrel came up like it was gasping for air, and naturally sat a bit above the front pressure point, ie. marginally floating (but a wee bit loose). I tried a round down range, then another, and BANG, they were right there were they should be!!

    ps. the action screw holes are not damaged from previous overtightening.

    now clearly this rifle is not designed to have a lose front action screw and marginally floated barrel, so what is the best approach to correct the problem?

    I am thinking:
    a. glass and pillar bed it to ensure the action sits right and is supported. do this whilst the barrel is laying in the barrel channel touching the front pressure point so when re-tightened post bedding, it sits correctly.
    b. as per 'a' but if 'a' fails to work, float the bugger (BH, stop and take a deep breath,,this is last resort I'm talking about!) LOL

    any other ideas guys?

  2. #2
    Well it would appear that the bedding area may have been compressed and the stock fit is not as it should be.

    I was always told that the front screw was done up tight first and the rear tang screw more like nipped. It's not tightened as much as the front screw. So I have always used this method.

    As we do not know the full history of the rifle and whom did what to it all we can try and do is undo any damage/wear and correct the interface so the rifle shoots as it should.

    Although it's not a "fix" it will help determine how much compression has taken place. Remove stock and cut a plastic covered business card or a glazed (shiny) surfaced one to fit the bedding area behind the recoil lug. Fit stock tighten and test. You might need two layer of card.

    If as I suspect this will improve the group performance in this case the stock can now be bedded to provide that level of fit. Whilst bedding one might as well do the whole action bedding as if the front has been compressed then the rear will no longer be true so bedding the action will provide a stress free bedding area for the action to sit in.

    It's your rifle so ho you achieve this is really up to you. I have seen the front bedding area compressed before on rifles and funnily enough it's often on those that the barrel has been floated on. The weight out front with no support acts like a long handle and it constantly applies pressure, extra pressure, onto the front bearing surface increasing it's loading and over a period of time it compresses. No surprises really if one thinks about it.

    Now dealing with your CF2 is really your choice of how you wish to proceed or how you want it to look and shoot after you have finished with it.

    "do this whilst the barrel is laying in the barrel channel touching the front pressure point so when re-tightened post bedding, it sits correctly."

    Ahhh fore stock pressure point actually apply upwards pressure tot eh barrel they are not passive with the barrel just laying in them. It should take some pressure to move the barrel off it's pad. I have heard of people doing the bedding with the rifle perfectly upside down and them bedding with a weight hanging off the muzzle to that after the bedding compound is set up and the weight removed and the rifle taken from the vice/clamp/rest that the barrel sits down into the channel onto the pad with this pressure. I believe the Enfield's had a minimum of 10 lbs pressure on their barrels. Will have to look it up as it escapes me at the moment .

    As you know I try to keep my rifles as close to factory spec in most cases as possible. However this is your rifle soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo... I have made a couple of suggestions now you must decide how your going to proceed.

  3. #3

    your time on the subject is much appreciated. I want to keep this one as close to factory spec as possible too, so appreciate all your input tremendously.

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