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Thread: chroming

  1. #1

    chroming

    gents,

    I'm looking to do a mauser action in chrome, stick it in a zebra wood stock and build buffallo horn grip cap and forends. chambering,,well, not quite sure yet, but something that's bigger than a 6.5 (it's a long action swede atm) and suitable for sika, reds, boar, and some non DG plains game up to eland and kudu.

    a. thoughts on what chambering (even calibre) would be a good choice given the bolt head
    b. who can chrome the action for me and approx. costs invovled? oh, need the bottom metal chromed too..


    ideas?


    thanks

    PKL

  2. #2
    I can't help with the chroming, but I'm having a long action swede re-barreled to 35 Whelen at the moment for the same sort of game that you have in mind.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by PKL View Post
    gents,

    I'm looking to do a mauser action in chrome, stick it in a zebra wood stock and build buffallo horn grip cap and forends. chambering,,well, not quite sure yet, but something that's bigger than a 6.5 (it's a long action swede atm) and suitable for sika, reds, boar, and some non DG plains game up to eland and kudu.

    a. thoughts on what chambering (even calibre) would be a good choice given the bolt head
    b. who can chrome the action for me and approx. costs invovled? oh, need the bottom metal chromed too..


    ideas?


    thanks

    PKL
    Gasp.
    Be careful who does the chroming. It must be done very carefully by someone used to plating guns, not motorcycle parts.~Muir

  4. #4
    +1 with Muir & his sharp intake of breath!

    - You say chroming - you have the choice of soft (glossy - blingtastic!) or hard (mat) finish - do you want it chromed for bling or wear resistance? Hard chrome is quite abrasive too!
    Chrome is funny stuff with respect to friction & lubrication - so running / bearing surface materials are vitally important to get right - you don't want to end up with a bolt that drags.
    Whoever does the work must be able to mask off the critical bits that need to be kept as virgin steel (barrel thread & lug recesses spring to mind)
    These days if making a new action, I'd lean towards a stainless action as more people know how to machine that than get the dimensions right with chroming & subsequent machining / grinding that could be involved the other way.

    If you aim to use an "old" mauser action, why not go for a nice colour hardened finish. - Classier than chrome IMHO and less likely to dazzle the game you are hunting.

    Ian

  5. #5
    yep, looking for a gangster bling mirror look I'm sure there'll be someone out there who can do the work

  6. #6
    SD Regular johngryphon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingstonandy View Post
    I can't help with the chroming, but I'm having a long action swede re-barreled to 35 Whelen at the moment for the same sort of game that you have in mind.
    Ah so pertinent to the thread!

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by PKL View Post
    yep, looking for a gangster bling mirror look I'm sure there'll be someone out there who can do the work
    The problems with chrome: It isn't as durable as it seems. It can scratch, humidity can blister it and it's....... well..... some folks might be saying that all your Taste is in your mouth. ~Muir

  8. #8
    Some "bumper" chrome seems real rubbish compared to proper hard chrome like on cylinder liners.
    Hard chrome doesn't have the gloss shine though as far as I remember.

    edi

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by johngryphon View Post
    Ah so pertinent to the thread!
    The OP asked two questions, he even labelled them a. and b. to make it easy for you.

  10. #10
    SD Regular johngryphon's Avatar
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    Life has its geniuses Andy,you must be one of them!

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