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Thread: Fitting wildcat sound mod

  1. #1

    Fitting wildcat sound mod

    Hi There,

    I purchased a wildcat sound mod yesterday for my t3 243. After talking to the lad in the gun shop, he mentioned drilling the cap that goes on the end of the mod over the barrel (if you know what I mean).

    Basically he advised me to either drill it so it was very tight or drill it so it had plenty of clearance around the cap and the barrel. Apparently if its not tight it can effect the harmonics of the barrel. He went on to tell me that most people just leave the cap off.

    I dont want to leave the cap off because personally I think its asking for problems later on with dirt etc.

    Just wanted to know how you've fitted yours and whether it does actually make a difference.

    Many Thanks,


    Rob

  2. #2
    i leave a little clearence i dont like it to be tight i have a jig for the lathe then bore it out witha boring bar

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by taylor View Post
    i leave a little clearence i dont like it to be tight i have a jig for the lathe then bore it out witha boring bar
    Didnt think about using a lathe (not that ive got one but would be able to use a mates). I was just planning on using a pillar drill and just use a set of vernier callipers to match the drill bit.

    I personally cant see that if it had a small amount of play that it would do too much damage in terms of accuracy but im by no means an expert and wouldn't have a clue on barrel harmonics. Thats why ive come to you guys

  4. #4
    I have a Wildcat predator 8 on my SS T3 in 243. I have my bung/spacer/plug what ever it is you refer to tight on my barrel, to the extent it sometimes is a bugger to get off. My rifle consistently shoots cloverleaf groups at 100m so I'd try tight first, if that doesn't work then give some clearance. For the record I did not have to drill anything, was an out-of -the-box fit, no drilling required... And I'd not want to go at it with a drill, surely asking for trouble if you got it a fraction off-centre.

    Stig

  5. #5
    Rob, If you bought it from a gun shop they should have lathed it to fit your barrel.
    The general opinion is that all mods that have a rear bush should have a few mil clearance.
    The thought behind it is that if it touches/tight, as the barrel heats up it will get even tighter so you will not have the same barrel harmonics for the first second and thrd shot !!
    Have a word with the manufacturer, I don't know who runs it now but I'm sure whoever it is will put you right.

  6. #6
    Thanks for the advice. I will speak to the gun shop again and see what they have to say.

    I think ill give it a bit of clearance, as you say when it gets hot its going to expand.

    Knew I should of brought a t8

  7. #7
    Hi
    We usually machine the rear support bushes to give them a 0.1mm/.004" clearance. This allows for expansion if required.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by rob121 View Post
    Thanks for the advice. I will speak to the gun shop again and see what they have to say.
    I think ill give it a bit of clearance, as you say when it gets hot its going to expand. Knew I should of brought a t8
    The T8 also has a rear bush as well that needs 'profiling' normally done by the gunshop too.

  9. #9
    I would have thought it is a must for this job to be done on a lathe. The hole in the bush really need to be concentric to the rest of the mod. If it is not when you screw the mod on the internal thread and the bush will fight each other. This could cause all sorts of problems.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by EMcC View Post
    The T8 also has a rear bush as well that needs 'profiling' normally done by the gunshop too.
    Thats okay then! Ill def be mentioning it to them, as I said the lad advised me to leave it off but again not only would it gather crap inside it, it also doesnt give any support for the mod.

    Is there anyone for the bushs ready to go, ie already been profiled, its on a tikka t3 lite which surely all have the same size barrels?

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