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Thread: Weaver type rail

  1. #1

    Weaver type rail

    I was thinking about buying one of the Steyr Mannlicher classic rifles. There is a classic half stock with 24" barrel and Ultra Light with 19" barrel available. I thought Ultra Light in .243 would make a nice roe rifle. It also comes with integrated Weaver style rail. What advantages (if any) does having this rail give? I was thinking about using zeiss victory 2.5-10x56 with it.

    Thanks,
    Greg

  2. #2
    I'm just about to fit a rail to my sako. Advantage is that I can swop scopes quickly without taking the mounts off between my remmy with rail and the sako. Other advantage is that there is a huge selection of mounts.
    edi

  3. #3
    optilock do weaver rail bases which fit the Tikka tactical but I think they will fit any weaver rail. If you already have the optilock rings these will fit the new bases.

    I use optilock on all my rifles they are very rugged and have a plastic insert to protect the scope and take up any slight misalignment.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by ejg
    I'm just about to fit a rail to my sako. Advantage is that I can swop scopes quickly without taking the mounts off between my remmy with rail and the sako. Other advantage is that there is a huge selection of mounts.
    edi
    What rail are you planning to put on your Sako if you don't mind me asking? I'm also looking for a weaver rail for a Sako 85, except most of the ones I have looked at are canted at 20MOA for very long distance work which I think will cause my scope to struggle to reach zero at 100 yards.

  5. #5
    FWIW - I have a NEAR 20MOA rail on my Sako 75, absolutely no problems to zero at 100 yds/metres.

    T260

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Tikka 260
    FWIW - I have a NEAR 20MOA rail on my Sako 75, absolutely no problems to zero at 100 yds/metres.

    T260
    What scope do you have?

    What worries me is that I've got a Schmidt & Bender Klassik Variable 3-12x50 and according to the instruction booklet (I cant find any reference anywhere on the web to verify this) the adjustment range is just 15.7 inches (presumably at 100m) each way!

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by csl
    Quote Originally Posted by Tikka 260
    FWIW - I have a NEAR 20MOA rail on my Sako 75, absolutely no problems to zero at 100 yds/metres.

    T260
    What scope do you have?

    What worries me is that I've got a Schmidt & Bender Klassik Variable 3-12x50 and according to the instruction booklet (I cant find any reference anywhere on the web to verify this) the adjustment range is just 15.7 inches (presumably at 100m) each way!
    The rail I'm getting is coming from Roedale Precision in Germany. They could tell you if the 20 moa rail will work. Anyway I will be getting the 20 moa rail in aluminium (steel also possible) and I have a 3-12x50 S&B zenith. Pete advised the rail and knows what scope I have.
    All my other mounts I normally rework to have more elevation than drop.
    My friend just put a rail on his sako 75, but I don't know if it was a 20 moa rail or how much travle his swarovski scope has that he put on. Works fine though.
    edi

  8. #8
    I'm no expert but if the rail adds 20MOA of elevation and your scope can only go up or down 15.7MOA from centre then I can't see how he can guarantee you will be able to get a 100yd zero without checking where your scope is adjusted currently.

    For example, just looking at the S&B scope on my .243 (zeroed 1" high at 100yds) - the little indicator suggests the scope is currently 3/4 of the way up on it's adjustment range. (and this indicator is only very approximate!)

    So if the total range is +/- 15.7 MOA it is currently set at 3/4 x 15.7 x 2 = 23.55MOA above the lowest setting on the scope.

    That means if I add a 20MOA rail I will need to come back down 20MOA on the scope which will bring me to 23.55 - 20 = 3.55MOA above the lowest possible setting on the scope. That's only about 9 clicks off the absolute bottom - not much margin for error!

    Or am I missing a trick here?

  9. #9
    I'm no expert but if the rail adds 20MOA of elevation and your scope can only go up or down 15.7MOA from centre then I can't see how he can guarantee you will be able to get a 100yd zero without checking where your scope is adjusted currently.

    For example, just looking at the S&B scope on my .243 (zeroed 1" high at 100yds) - the little indicator suggests the scope is currently 3/4 of the way up on it's adjustment range. (and this indicator is only very approximate!)

    So if the total range is +/- 15.7 MOA it is currently set at 3/4 x 15.7 x 2 = 23.55MOA above the lowest setting on the scope.

    That means if I add a 20MOA rail I will need to come back down 20MOA on the scope which will bring me to 23.55 - 20 = 3.55MOA above the lowest possible setting on the scope. That's only about 9 clicks off the absolute bottom - not much margin for error!

    Or am I missing a trick here?

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