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Thread: Zeroing a Quad

  1. #1

    Zeroing a Quad

    I recently bought a Sako Quad in .22wmr with the intention of adding the .22lr next week and the other 2 barrels over time. Now comes the task of zeroing each barrel in such a way that a few clicks of the turrets, or finding a compromise one-size-fits-all scope setting, will allow me to use each one with confidence.Does anyone have any experience or advice that'll save me much head scratching and brain stress?

  2. #2
    Get the Burris scope that was made to go with the rifle? Its got setting for each barrel..... Dunno if they are value for money though....

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by murrayb View Post
    Get the Burris scope that was made to go with the rifle? Its got setting for each barrel..... Dunno if they are value for money though....
    I'll check that out, thanks. But finances dictate that I stick with the scope I've got for the moment.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrayb View Post
    Get the Burris scope that was made to go with the rifle? Its got setting for each barrel..... Dunno if they are value for money though....
    Don't bother been there and done that, scope is pants and DOE'S not do what it says it does on the box,

    I used my sako quad with the 22lr and the 17 hmr barrels with a scope with nice target turrets (but had to use high mounts so that i could change the barrels over with no issues, ) and the front objective bell can not be bigger than 44mm OD or you will have issues changing over the barrels,

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  5. #5
    I have the sako quad varmint, put a s&b zenith on it with med height mounts the front end bell of the scope just about allows the barrel change and it is bang on for my line of Sight as well.

    I wouldn't go ny higher than med as it will effect your eye line to the scope from the stock comb, the best way would be to get a ballistic turret scope and swing off mounts to be 100%

    Better to re set the scope each time and make sure it's on the button

    Good luck

    ​Phil

  6. #6
    The scope I have allows me to change the barrel easily. It'll just have to do until I can afford a better one.
    I usually have my .22 zeroed at 52 yards and I'd assume 100 yards would be a suitable distance to zero the wmr. Do I just zero each barrel as normal and be aware of my settings for each, or is there a compromise?
    The wmr, although not my primary fox rifle, will be used almost exclusively for fox, which means it'll never need to reach past 100 yards. The .22 is also sub 100yds. The .17's would be for normally used between 75 and 150yds and maybe 200 on a nice calm day.
    I reckon I'll be able to figure it all out with time and practice but was hoping someone here has had the same dilemma and already figured it out.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by philip View Post
    Better to re set the scope each time and make sure it's on the button
    ​Phil
    That's kinda what I thought. Which would be the first barrel I should zero? That'll be the one that reads "0" on my scope.

  8. #8
    I put a cheap and cheery Richter optics 4-16x50 SP on medium mounts on mine then zeroed the scope at 100yds for the hmr, took the removable turret caps off and then set them to zero. I then put the .22lr barrel on and rezeroed making a note of the adjustments made to give a 70yds zero for the .22. I then downloaded the hawke software and printed the mil settings off at .17 and wrote the turret adjustments needed for the .22 settings and taped the reticle cut out to the front bell.
    Below is a link to my website.
    Quad sticks

  9. #9
    I have 4 barrels for the quad
    as Bob pointed out, the Burris scope is made of chocolate and isnt worth putting on a toilet tube for a kids toy

    I tried to use the single scope and made a note of settings but it only works when you have two barrels! (like you do)
    I now have QR mounts and 4 scopes (none of them pricey ones either!) They are so good I dont even check zero anymore


    I also used the WMR for foxes and love it, IIRC there was a simple elevation increase with no windage required between .22lr and .22WMR
    There was a definite simple rule for switching between .17M2 and .17HMR - the HMR was 6" high at 100yds when using the .M2 zero

    my problem came when going from .17 to .22 or back!

    should be easy with two barrels.

  10. #10
    Thanks to you all for the advice. I'm sure it'll all become second nature once I get used to the different barrels and zeroes.

    Quote Originally Posted by bewsher500 View Post
    I also used the WMR for foxes and love it, IIRC there was a simple elevation increase with no windage required between .22lr and .22WMR
    ​At what distances did you zero each barrel and which one did you do first?

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