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Thread: Sealer/varnish for laminate stock.

  1. #1

    Sealer/varnish for laminate stock.

    Looking to retro fit a Boyds thumbhole stock, stock is already finished but the wood will need treating where cut out.
    Any advice on varnishes etc appreciated.

  2. #2
    What is the stock currently finished with? If you might possibly see the cut areas, then you will need to replicate the remainder of the finish.

    If you are sure that the areas you are treating won't be seen, then some decent poly (usually available in diy shops as yacht varnish) thinned 7 parts varnish to 1 of white spirit by volume will give an excellent sealing coat. Whip it up until it foams, brush on as a soaking coat (being careful not to let it run through onto the remainder of the stock) and then wipe off immediately with a lint free cloth. Leave for 24 hours before reassembling. This will make it completely water and oil proof but won't add bulk (although 'hairs' will become rigid and may require a rub over) so you can inlet tight.


  3. #3
    My stock maker Enda Walsh uses a two part epoxy clear coat. Super strength and finish. Not sure how many coats but two part epoxy would seem the way to go.

  4. #4
    I think I'd rather use the thinned varnish, it will soak in and seal the surface properly.
    Two pack Epoxy will seal over the surface but will not soak in, it will also build the surface up.

    In general I'm not sold on 2 poart epoxy for anything that will get wet.
    I started building fishing rods over 40 years ago, all whipping were sealed with Humbrol clear varnish, the first few coats thinned out.
    As many coats as needed to fill the threads were used, but no more than filled, depending on the thread used that may be 5 coats or 10 coats.
    Then the professionals started to use Epoxy, it needed a drying/turning machine, but 2 coats at most is all that is needed to give a thick protective finish.
    The downside is it adds little strength to the whipping as it sits on top and does not soak in, it is also difficult to affect any repairs as it is so hard and nearly impossible to remove neatly with no damage to the surface it is on.

    This turned out to be very important as over time so many people have realised it isn't fully waterproof, I have now lost count of the epoxy finished rods that may only be 2 years old that I have re-finished as all the whippings had gone white through water ingress.

    Epoxy on the main body of a stock would be fine as it is an easily dried area, but hidden epoxy will stay wet for a while and will fail.


  5. #5
    whatever you do use grain filler before
    ​very cheap, makes all the difference to the over coat

  6. #6
    Thanks chaps, obviously looking for waterproof qualities too.
    Boyds advertise treatments on their page but can't export anyway.

    Neil,I would never have guessed you were into whipping!

  7. #7
    Old man,
    Ive cut n shut a few Boyds stocks and i use Colron refined Teak oil to finish the job off, and they always looks good and are waterproof as well

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by old man View Post

    Neil,I would never have guessed you were into whipping!
    Well I don't tell everyone on a first date


  9. #9
    Birchwood Casey do a tru oil finishing kit I believe specifically for finishing laminate stocks. Never tried it myself as I've covered my laminates in paint but I will when I want to restore them.

  10. #10
    Thanks guys!


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