Tips on Finishing a Boyds Stock

Farmer

Member
HI,
After much searching for an aftermarket stock I've just ordered a Boyds featherweight thumbhole stock for my CZ, I had to get an unfinished unilet stock as they didn't make the finished stock that I wanted. So if anyone has fitted/finished a unilet stock and would like to pass on any tips I would be very grateful.:)
 
HI,
After much searching for an aftermarket stock I've just ordered a Boyds featherweight thumbhole stock for my CZ, I had to get an unfinished unilet stock as they didn't make the finished stock that I wanted. So if anyone has fitted/finished a unilet stock and would like to pass on any tips I would be very grateful.:)

Laminate? Use a satin finish varathane finish. I have done several of them this way. It penetrates and toughens the wood fibers and if the stock gets banged or scratched they are easily repaired.~Muir
 
It's a 452-2e zkm, .17hmr. I've had it a while but i've never been happy with the stock, it's lop is too short for me so i extended it a bit with a slip on pad but i also find that having hands like shovels i have a job getting a comfortable grip wich affects my trigger pull.
 
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Cheers, boyds do some good finishing kits but aren't allowed to post them abroad, the varathane sounds ideal, i'm always careful handling my rifles but if you want to hunt you got to be prepared to cover the rough ground so i do pick up the odd dink now and then
 
Did you need to use a bedding compound or does that depend on how accurate you make the receiver/stock fit?
 
Did you need to use a bedding compound or does that depend on how accurate you make the receiver/stock fit?

You are going to have your work cut out inletting for the 452 plus IMO bedding would be of no advantage because of the unusual action screw arrangement and the dovetailed boss on underside of the reciever tang.

Ian.
 
Cheers Ian,
I see what you mean about the fixings for the action and the dovetails, I had been wondering about them thats why I'm after advice. As for the inletting I was going see what the blank looks like and then copy the dimensions from my existing stock.
 
Sanding wise Boyds are usually pretty much on the money, I used Danish oil to finish my laminates as it gives a hard wearing protective finish
 
I have finished several laminated stocks with good old Tru-oil, it is very good, one coat a day for seven days knocking back with 0000 grade steel wool in between coats and finally finnishing off with stock sheen and conditoner and a protective coat of furniture wax.

Ian.
 
​Cheers Ian, I googled finishing a boyds stock and it came up with a you-tube video of Mr. Boyd himself sanding and oiling a stock using Tru-oil. I also found a thread on oiling stocks with a turps/linseedoil oil mix by Olaf. I want to get a satin finish rather than gloss so I'll see if I can get hold of some Tru-oil on e-bay.
By the by, nice munty you shot in that picture, we don't really get them down here yet but I have heard a couple of rumours!
 
Thanks farmer, the knocking back of the tru-oil between coats with the wire wool takes off any gloss to an almost matt finish, the stock sheen and conditioner by the same company then brings it up to a very pleasing satin sheen.
In between coats and before final finishing wipe the stock over with a tack tag to lift any steel wool filaments that might be left behind, if you dont do this you will be able to feel the filaments when you rub your hands over the finished stock

Ian.
 
Personally I would not use tru oil as it not a great finish its closer to varnish than oil. I would use a proper stock oil like Naiper London stock finish or trade secret, I make my own but these are ok.

I only use tru oil on chisel and chequering tool handles.
 
Thanks boys, I had a look at the Tru-oil and it seems to use similar ingredients to olafs recipe! Looks like i'll be calling in trago mills at the weekend to pick up the materials and some sand paper etc., then I've just got to sort my shed out and make a working space while i wait for the stock to arrive :confused:
 
Thanks boys, I had a look at the Tru-oil and it seems to use similar ingredients to olafs recipe! :confused:

you'll find that to be the case, even purdey's famous Slackum is a modern derivative.

if you don't want to mix your own, tru-oil is a decent alternative.

...I'm pretty sure I saw it on the shelves (not the 'for sale' section) when I visited Westley Richards and got the tour in Birmingham.

mixing your own stains and root of alkanet as well as the differerent oils you use for the finishng and maintenance is by far the best, but if you're just doing one stock, why bother, then you might as well pay for the stock to be finished for you.

Personally, I have two types of walnut stains I've made, and a couple others for non-walnut. I have an off the shelf alkanet oil and a stronger homebrew. I use 1 type of oil mixture initial saturation, then one other type for sanding, then another oil mixture for further saturation and building layers, then a final type of oil for polishing, a homemixed polishing/shine compound, and an off the shelf wax for keeping weatherproof :)

...I suppose I could just buy 100 litres of linseed oil and bin the rest too, but I'm pretty pleased with the recipes and processes I use, and the outcomes work..really well
 
Pic's are a problem, I tried to post some a while ago but I just get a message telling me it's too big - never had that sort of complaint before - usually the opposite!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Cheers Klenchblaize, OK this is what I'm starting with; a bog standard CZ .17HMR 452-2E ZKM. I have added a SAK mod., Harris bi-pod, N-S Nighteater and a slip on butt-pad. I have also taped high density foam to the comb to try and get better eye alignment. It don't look pretty but it works - justCZ 17MR 452-2E ZKM.jpg
 
Birchwood Cassey oil finishing kit, does what it says on the tin :D

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